Posts Tagged ‘american’

Globes
Pair of early nineteenth-century mahogany library globes by Newton, published in 1838 and 1836. The tripod frames with out-scrolled legs ending in brass castors, 3 ft 8 in high        780 0
Large pair of terrestrial and celestial globes by Newton; published 25 March 1875. Supported in mahogany frames on triple curving legs 205 0
Pair of terrestrial and celestial globes in turned stands by James
Wyld, Charing Cross East; published 1847 185 0
Knife Boxes
A pair of mahogany urn-shaped knife boxes, stamped W. Johnston, with domed lids and bodies inlaid with flowers and stripes, 2 ft 5 in high 115 0
Sheraton  inlaid  mahogany serpentine-fronted knife box in
original condition 32 0
Mirrors—Mantel
Empire-style giltwood overmantel with triple mirrored panels
and decorated with classical figures 105 0
Rectangular mantel mirror in a giltwood frame carved with
acanthus and shell motifs, 31 in by 25 in 60 0
Mirrors—Toilet or Dressing
Sheraton serpentine-fronted box-frame toilet mirror fitted with
two drawers, 17 in wide 36 0
Sheraton box-frame shield-shape toilet mirror with two drawers,
18 in wide 30 0
Mahogany box-frame toilet mirror with three drawers, 15 in
wide 15 0
Edwardian   mahogany   box-frame   toilet  mirror   with three
drawers to base, 22 in wide 9 0
Mirrors—Wall
Pair of Chinese-Chippendale giltwood girandoles of rococo outline mounted with phoenix-birds and clusters of flowers from which issue two scrolled candle branches. The base enriched with acorns and oak leaves, 38

in high 650 0
Mid-Georgian wall glass in a giltwood frame carved with scrolls
and foliage and pierced, 44 in high 200 0
Chippendale mahogany mirror with gilt gesso beading
George IV convex mirror in a gilt frame enriched with spherical ornament with two scrolled candle sconces. Crested with a gilt eagle with outspread wings 76 0
Regency giltwood convex mirror with ball encrusted moulded
frame and ebonised slip, 1 ft 11 in diameter 15 0
Settees, Couches and Chaise Longues
Small carved mahogany sofa, the arched back carved with
rococo motifs. Curved arms, carved seat rail and cabriole legs        135 0
some auction room prices ‘. 1968-69
Decorated satinwood cane-panelled settee with loose seat
cushion, 4 ft 4 in George III painted settee with flat rectangular back and arms,
on turned legs. The arms, seat rails and legs are painted
with husks and flowers on a cream ground, 6 ft wide Early George III mahogany settee with stuffed back and arms.
The seat rail and legs are carved with blind fret, 5 ft 8 in
wide, (some restoration) Victorian rosewood frame serpentine-fronted chaise longue on
short cabriole legs
Settles
Eighteenth-century oak settle, 5 ft 5 in wide Seventeenth-century panelled oak settle with box seat, 4 ft 6 in wide
Seventeenth-century carved and panelled tall-back hall settle, 5 ft 7 in wide
Sideboards
Small nineteenth-century sideboard inlaid with ebony lines. Raised back, the centre drawer flanked by a cupboard and deep drawer. Supported on six turned and tapering legs, 4 ft 8 in wide
Hepplewhite-style mahogany serpentine sideboard of rich mellow colour, cross-banded in kingwood and fitted with a napery drawer and cellaret cupboards with octagonal gilt metal handles and supported on chamfered

legs, 7 ft 2 in wide
Georgian mahogany half-moon sideboard with two cupboards to the sides and two drawers with lion ring handles in the centre. Four tapering legs, 4 ft wide
Large mahogany Sheraton-style sideboard fitted with two long drawers and flanked by two deep drawers, supported on tapering legs
Regency Empire mahogany sideboard of architectural form, with a reverse breakfront with two shallow drawers to the centre flanked by deep cupboards. Supported by two curved and four simulated bamboo legs

terminating in brass paw feet. The whole mounted with ormolu and brass griffins, lions’ masks and sphinx and with Adams-style garlands and patera, 7 ft 6 in long
Late Georgian mahogany sideboard with shaped front, the top back rail fitted with three tambour slides. Two cupboards and a centre drawer to the base over a waved apron. Supported on six slender tapering legs, 5 ft

7 in wide
Early nineteenth-century mahogany bow-front sideboard on spiral-turned legs, 6 ft 1 in wide
Tables—Break fast
Regency mahogany breakfast table with brass stringing on the banded top and a turned pillar ending in a reeded quadruped, 5 ft by 3 ft 5 in
Georgian mahogany oval breakfast table with reeded edge and
Tables—Card
Chippendale mahogany card table with shaped folding top on boldly carved cabriole legs ending in claw and ball feet, 2 ft 7 in wide 370 0
Late George II mahogany card table with border of carved flowerheads and legs and frieze carved with blind fret, 3 ft wide 250 0
Regency card table in figured rosewood inlaid with brass flowers and leaves, the D-top on a ringed stem and quadruple brass capped legs, 3 ft wide 190 0
Sheraton mahogany card table inlaid with satinwood lines and
on tapering legs, 3 ft 2 in wide 180 0
George II walnut card table with rectangular top on turned legs
with mantled knees and club feet, 3 ft wide 95 0
Regency mahogany card table with green baize interior on curving quadruple support, ending in brass claw feet. The top is cross-banded 65 0
Victorian mahogany card table with double Sap top supported
on four tapering shafts, terminating in curved legs 44 0
Tables—Centre
Regency painted centre tabic, the circular top simulating green marble, the border with brass mouldings hinged to a carved turned central support on a curved triangular base with lion’s paw feet, 4 ft diameter 120 0
Edwards and Roberts eboniscd centre table with ormolu beading on cluster column and quadruple base, 5 ft 6 in wide 38 0
Red Buhl shaped centre table with heavy ormolu mounts, two
drawers and on cabriole legs. (Poor condition) 11 0
Tables—Dining
Charles I oak dining table with a triple-plank top and the frieze carved with leaves and interlaced arcading, on column legs, 6 ft 5 in long by 2 ft 7 in wide 360 0
Large late George III mahogany dining table, the top richly carved with acanthus, ribbon motifs, satyr masks and a coat of arms. Supported on ten tapering spiral-twist legs with five loose leaves, 12 ft 4 in long 185 0
Georgian mahogany two pillar dining table with triple curving
legs ending in brass-capped feet 122 0
Georgian mahogany oval drop-leaf dining table on turned legs
and pad feet 75 0
Eighteenth-century mahogany oval drop-leaf cottage dining table
on taper legs with pad feet, 3 ft 6 in wide 44 0
Mahogany gadrooned oval dining table with cabriole legs and
claw and ball feet 40 0
Georgian mahogany drum library table with leather top and four real and four dummy drawers. On triple curving legs with brass-capped feet, 3 ft 3 in diameter 680 0
some auction room prices : 1968-69
George III mahogany library table fitted with seven drawers and dummy drawers with gilt metal lion ring handles, the top with gilt tooled green leather and the whole raised on a curved quadruple support with

brass-capped feet
Tables—Games and Sewing
Eighteenth-century mahogany, shaped folding top, games table on nutcracker frame with cabriole legs and claw and ball feet, 34 in wide
William IV games table with sliding and reversible top inlaid as a chess board opening to reveal a backgammon board with two drawers to the side. Central pillar supported on quadruple curving feet
Nineteenth-century mahogany sewing table with rising top and drawers below. The slender tapering legs ending in brass-capped feet
Tables—Gate-leg
George I elmwood gate-leg table, the oval top with flaps on
cabriole legs carved with scrolls and leaves and ending in
pointed pad feet, 3 ft 9 in wide Seventeenth-century oak oval gate-leg dining table with double
flaps supported on bobbin turned legs with plain cross
stretchers, 4 ft 9 in wide Late George II mahogany gate-leg table, the oval top with two
flaps, on unusual legs fluted and ending in paw feet, 3 ft 9 in
wide
Oak oval gate-leg table on turned underframe with drawer, 4 ft wide
Tables—Occasional
Late George II mahogany piecrust table with bird-cage support on fluted stem with carved legs and claw and ball feet, 2 ft 2 in diameter
Large mahogany piecrust tripod table with baluster stem and
pointed pad feet, 3 ft 5 in diameter Mahogany tripod table, the circular top with raised rim, on
cabriole feet, 1 ft 10 in diameter
Tables—Pembroke
Late Georgian mahogany oval Pembroke table with drawer, on
square tapering legs, 2 ft 7 in wide by 3 ft 6 in long Late Georgian mahogany Pembroke table painted with a floral
border and on turned and fluted legs Georgian mahogany Pembroke table with folding flaps and
single drawer, inlaid with satinwood lines and fan motifs, on
tapering legs, 3 ft 2 in wide
Tables—Refectory
Seventeenth-century oak refectory table of slender plain form, the base having square ends united by a single stretcher, 7 ft 3 in long
Oak refectory table on bulbous end supports with central
stretcher, 7 ft 7 in by 3 ft wide 130 0
An exceptionally long oak refectory table with triple curving
supports, 18 ft 6 in long, 3 ft 3 in wide 90 0
Tables—Side
Queen Anne banded walnut side table with two deep and two
shallow drawers on square legs, 3 ft 3 in wide 170 0
Chinese-Chippendale mahogany side table, the frieze carved with
blind fret. Moulded legs, 3 ft wide 88 0
Oak side table with drawer, on turned legs, 3 ft wide 64 0
Walnutwood side table with cabriole legs carved with acanthus
leaves 31 0
Tables—Sofa
George III satinwood sofa table cross-banded with acacia, fitted with two drawers and false drawers opposite on trestle supports with splayed curved feet and brass castors, 2 ft 10 in wide        750 0
Regency banded mahogany sofa table with tulipwood stringing with two drawers on end supports and central stretcher with brass claw feet, 5 ft 10 in extended 380 0
Late George III mahogany sofa table with two drawers in frieze and raised on flat trestle supports with out-curved legs, 3 ft 2 in wide 270 0
George III mahogany sofa table banded in rosewood and with two drawers. It has trestle supports with tripod splayed legs and brass feet, 3 ft wide 250 0
Tables—Sutherland
Mahogany Sutherland table on turned underframe, 2 ft 9 in
wide 42 0
Victorian walnut-veneered Sutherland table on turned supports,
2 ft 6 in wide 36 0
Tables—Tea
Regency mahogany tea table with folding top on a turned pillar and four curved legs, the whole inlaid with brass stringing, 3 ft wide 120 0
Late George II mahogany tea table, the top with a border of flowerheads and ribbon and the frieze and chamfered legs carved with Chinese blind fret, 3 ft wide 60 0
George III mahogany tea table with folding top, a drawer in
the frieze and square tapering legs, 3 ft 8 in wide 38 0
Tables—Wine
Hepplewhite mahogany wine table, the inlaid octagonal top
supported on triple concave curving legs 105 0
Victorian mahogany wine table on pillar and tripod base, 21 in
diameter 10 0
Tables—Writing
George III mahogany pedestal writing table, the gilt tooled leather top with three drawers at each side of the frieze and
the pedestals with cupboards and drawers at either end, 4 ft wide
Early eighteenth-century banded fruitwood writing table, fitted
with three drawers, a shaped apron and on cabriole legs with
pad feet, 2 ft 4 in wide Victorian lady’s mahogany writing table with two short drawers
on lyre end supports, 3 ft wide Carved mahogany writing table with fitted drawer, the top lined
with leather, on cabriole legs, 2 ft 5 in wide
Tallboys and Lowboys
George II walnut tallboy, the top with reeded and canted corners and three small and three long drawers. The base having three long drawers and bracket feet
Queen Anne small walnut tallboy of mellow colour, the upper chest fitted with two small and three long drawers over a brushing slide, and three long graduated drawers
William and Mary lowboy inlaid with scrolls and motifs. The top fitted with two small and two long drawers and two long drawers to the base, 4 ft 3 in high
Georgian mahogany tallboy with dentil cornice and two small and three long drawers to the top and tliree long drawers to the base which is supported on bracket feet
Georgian mahogany tallboy with dentil cornice, the top fitted with two small and three long drawers, the base with three long drawers and supported on bracket feet, 6 ft 1 in high
Waiters
Mid-Georgian mahogany dumb waiter with turned and carved columns supporting three trays. The whole on cabriole tripod feet, 4 ft high
George III mahogany dumb waiter with two revolving tiers and baluster centre on three curved and moulded legs and castor feet applied with roundels, 3 ft 2 in high
George II mahogany dumb waiter with three graduated revolving tiers and spiral fluting on turned central support. Plain cabriole legs, 3 ft 6 in high
Wardrobes
Mahogany breakfront wardrobe fitted with sliding trays, four
drawers and panelled cupboards Small Georgian mahogany wardrobe enclosed by two panelled
doors with three drawers in the base, 3 ft 9 in wide George III mahogany gents wardrobe with pierced swan-neck
cresting, a pair of doors banded in satinwood and two short
and two long drawers below, 7 ft high by 4 ft 4 in wide Regency mahogany wardrobe the upper part with sliding trays
with four drawers under on splay feet, 3 ft 11 in wide
Washstands
Late George III mahogany washstand, the top hinged and opening to form a back, the front with a pair of cupboard doors above one small drawer, on square splayed legs, 2 ft wide
Edwardian three-tier corner washstand with basin 18 0 George III mahogany corner washstand, the slender legs joined
by a stretcher with a drawer, 2 ft wide                                      14 0
Wine Coolers
Georgian inlaid mahogany sarcophagus wine cooler with lion
mask and ring handle on paw feet 65 0
Georgian mahogany octagonal wine cooler with lifting top and
short square moulded legs, 18 in wide 55 0

ceramics - pottery and porcelain
COLLECTING POTTERY and porcelain has been fashionable in England since the end of the seventeenth century, when Queen Man- brought her Japanese porcelain from Holland to decorate Hampton Court. The fashion was wildly popular throughout the eighteenth century, when the great porcelain factories were founded and East Indiamen sailed home from China with a hundred thousand pieces and more aboard.
In the nineteenth century Lady Charlotte Schreiber, whose collection is now in the Victoria & Albert Museum, combed western Europe for old pieces, paying C4 for a Chelsea rabbit tureen and complaining that it was too dear. Today, every antique shop has a- least a few pieces, and often dozens from which to choose.
Eighteenth century porcelain is still the goal of most collectors, although that of the nineteenth century is being increasingly collected, studied, and put into cabinets. The bargains go to those who know, but even the novice can, buy well today, at a time when inflation and the increasing popularity of the pastime sees to it that the value of good pieces rises constantly.
Porcelain made in the eighteenth century is now expensive, although even at current prices it is still an excellent investment. Perhaps Worcester porcelain is the safest of all. No one has ever really lost money by buying old Worcester because it has steadily appreciated over the years, and its popularity has never been the subject of fashion in the same way as the wares of other factories. Coloured Worcester is now beyond the reach of most pockets, except for nineteenth century wares, but transfer-printed and blueand-white Worcester are still reasonably priced.
The odd Chelsea or Bow plate is perhaps as much as one can hope for in the provinces, and the collector must turn to specialist dealers for most of it, but good plainly decorated specimens occur, and there is always the possibility of a chance discovery of something more important.
The minor eighteenth century factories, such as Lowestoft and New Hall, are frequently represented among the stock of country dealers, especially cups and saucers and similar items. Buying the wares of the nineteenth century manufacturers – Minton, Spode, Davenport, Worcester and so forth – is an exercise in discrimination, with prizes in the form of enhanced value for those who are able to identify the work of some of the better known artists who worked for these factories.
Wedgwood, wildly popular in the USA, where it is almost a way of life, is becoming scarce in England, but all of it is plainly marked, and the addition of ‘Made in England’ to the mark first used in 1898 forms a watershed between old and new wares. Most sought are the eighteenth century pieces, but these are hard to find. It should be remembered, however, that Wedgwood is by no means confined to the familiar jasper stoneware. Increasing interest is being taken in creamware and the black basalts stonewares, and the search for such rarer varieties as rosso antico with white jasper ornament is worth making.
English pottery generally has always been a popular subject with the collector less able to afford the expensive porcelains. English delft is perhaps the most popular in these days with many collectors, and the cost of the rarer specimens rivals that of good porcelain. But there are many humbler, but no less interesting, examples to be had at a few pounds apiece, particularly blue-painted Bristol delft.
Staffordshire red ware is still reasonably inexpensive although specimens are uncommon, but Whieldon wares, especially those with the tortoiseshell glazes, are met with relative frequency, and the price is not high for plates, although the scarcer varieties, such as figures and teapots, sell for a good deal more.
Good salt-glazed stoneware is always in demand, especially the enamel painted varieties which are apt to be expensive. Cheapest of all are the undecorated plates moulded with a variety of intricate border patterns.
less than they cost when first imported. The collector who likes them, and is prepared to take a chance on their return to fashion, could hardly do better than buy them at present. They will probably be much more expensive in a few years’ time.

The earlier Staffordshire figures, and such related things as Toby jugs, are in a higher price-range, and are correspondingly scarce. Rarest of all are figures decorated with the coloured glazes of Ralph Wood, but the enamelled figures of Enoch Wood are not uncommon, and the finer quality specimens deserve more attention than they get. Staffordshire chimney ornaments of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries are popular, despite crudities of modelling and finish, and there has lately been a noticeable increase in the popularity of mid-nineteenth century Tatbacks’, especially portraits of celebrities and notorious criminals of the day.
Railway mugs which were made at the time of the great railway
boom, especially when they depict such well tried favourites of the
enthusiast as the locomotives Rocket and Fury, are becoming ex-
28 tremely popular, and prices have risen considerably within the last year or so. Especially to be sought are such unusual variations as the double-heading – two locomotives coupled in tandem – and locomotives depicted against a background of identifiable scenes. Continental pottery and porcelain are less well-known in England. Here the knowledgeable collector may still find opportunities of picking up notable bargains. Dutch delft is perhaps the commonest variety of Continental pottery to be found, and later copies and reproductions are legion. Much less common are the products of such famous factories as Frankfurt, of which I have bought a number of specimens in country towns at very reasonable prices.
The z.,eilleuse – a tea or food-warmer to be found both in pottery and porcelain – is an extremely popular collector’s item on the Continent, and specimens are sought here. They are usually in the form of a separate base, a cylindrical centre portion and a surmounting basin and cover, or a teapot and cover. A small lamp –the godet – in the base provides heat for the vessel. English versions in delft and creamware from Leeds and Wedgwood exist, but these are food-warmers. The tea-warmer is much more likely to be continental, although a Swansea version exists in the Victoria & Albert Museum. In demand are the nineteenth century figures adapted for this purpose and known in France as personnages, the best of which were made by the Paris firm of Jacob Petit in the i 830’s. Good continental porcelain of the eighteenth century is scarce, but worth looking for. I found recently a group of figures of 1760 from the Italian Doccia factory in the shop of a provincial dealer who had no idea what it was. Few dealers outside the London specialists know anything about the minor German porcelain factories, and both figures and service-ware can be found occasionally, usually at fairly low prices. Mock ‘Sevres’ abounds, especially that decorated in turquoise blue with gilding of a quality which will not stand comparison with the much finer eighteenth century gilding. It must be remembered that these eighteenth century wares were repeated by the factory in the 187o’s, and although they are decorative, they have no enduring value to the collector.
Attention should be drawn to the many reproductions of Italian maiolica, especially drug-jars, seen in many shops. These are hardly ever offered as old, and they have no value to the collector who, however, should be alert to the possibility of a genuine specimen.
Today, when the country is continually being combed for antiques of all kinds, the antique shops of the provinces are probably richer in good things than they have ever been. The proportion of damaged objects, however, is high, and it is now unusual to find figures which do not need repair of some kind. One would not reject a finely painted eighteenth century dish because it was cracked; although the crack reduces the value, it still makes an effective display in the cabinet. Damaged dishes with perhaps a few sprigs of flowers, however, are of little value except to the impecunious enthusiast.
There is still a vast amount of Chinese porcelain to be found, most of it brought to England during the eighteenth century by the East India Company. Much of it was specially made for this large and thriving export trade, and the patterns are those demanded by European shippers. Collecting Chinese porcelain, therefore, is likely to fall into two distinct categories. The first will include the enormous quantity shipped to European order — armorial
pieces decorated with subjects based on contemporary engravings, and even direct copies of European porcelain. The second, inclined to be more exclusive, contains porcelain in the Chinese taste, and such stonewares as the celadons, as v.,ell as T’ang pottery. The latter wares were all imported towards the end of the nineteenth century and later for collectors who demanded purely Chinese things, and the variety met outside the specialist dealers in London are usually painted in blue underglaze. These, once fashionable,
30 are no longer in great demand, and often can be bought for much.
books to read
There have been more books written about ceramics than any other branch of antique art, so our list is highly selective. Incidentally, don’t overlook the second-hand book trade and antiquarian booksellers. Some of the finest works were published in the nineteenth century and have not been reprinted. Examples can often be found and usually they are remarkable for their fine colour plates of interest-mg pieces.
General works
Pocket book of English ceramic marks, j P Cushion, Faber, 12s 6d
Handbook of pottery and porcelain marks, j P Cushion & 11″Honey, Faber, & 12s 6d Encyclopaedia of British pottery and porcelain marks, G Godden, Jenkins, C6 6s Porcelain through the ages, G Savage, Penguin, ros 6d Talking about teapots, Y Bedford, Parrish, C1 5s Pottery and porcelain, F Litchfield, Black, £3 ros Concise encyclopaedia of English pottery and porcelain, W Markowitz & L Haggar, Deutsch, £6 6s
Country Life book of china, G Wills, Country Life, Ci 5s English pottery and porcelain figures, B Hughes, Lutterworth,
,C2 5s
Pottery through the ages, G’Savage, Cn ~sell, C i 5s
English pottery and bone china, B & T Hughes, Lutterworth, C1 5s British pottery and porcelain 1780-185o, G Godden, Barker, L2 15s
Antique English pottery, porcelain and glass, L E C Ramsay, Connoisseur, Cz 5s English blue and white,
B Naine,,, Faber, £3 ros
English pottery and porcelain, JVB Honey, Faber, Cr ros
British pottery and porcelain, S 1v .fisher, Arco Art, r2s 6d
Lutterworth, C2 2S
China-Trade porcelain, Phillips, Country Life, £5 5s
Old English porcelain, W B Honey, Faber, ki zos Porcelain through the ages, G Savage, Cgsell, ,Er ros
English cream coloured earthenware, D C Towner, Faber, £2 Ss
English porcelain of x8th century,, L Dixon, Faber, C2 2S Connoisseur dictionary of marks, M Taylor, Connoisseur, ,Cr 5s
English ceramic figures, B Hughes, Lutterworth, C2 2S Medieval English pottery, B Rackham, Faber, L2 5s
Chelsea
Chelsea porcelain - Red Anchor wares Vol I, F S Mackenna, Lewis, £7 7s
Chelsea porcelain - Gold Anchor wares Vol 11, Lewis, £7 7s
Chinese and oriental
Oriental blue and white, Sir Harry Garner, Faber, £3 3s Ceramic art of China, TV B Honey, Faber, £3 3s
Corean pottery, W B Honey, Faber, Er r5s
Later Chinese porcelain -Ching dynasty, R S,-)-, Faber, £2 10S
Coalport
Caughley and Coalport porcelain, F A Barrett, Lewis, £7 7s
Continental
Dresden china, W B Honey, Faber C. rs
Weidenfeld & Nicolson,& 7s 6d European ceramic art, W B Honey, Faber, Cro ros
French faience, A Lane, Faber, ,Cr ros
French porcelain of the x8th century, W B Honey, Faber, ‘Cr ros
Concise encyclopaedia of continental pottery and porcelain, W Markowitz L Haggar, Deutsch, C6 6s
z7th and x8th century French porcelain, G Savage, Barrie & Rockcliffe, £3 3s
x8th century German porcelain, G Savage, Barrie & Rockdiffe, £3 3s
Pocket book of German ceramic marks,, Cushion, Faber, r5s
German porcelain, W B Honey, Faber, Cr r5s
Italian majolica, B Rackham, Faber, & 15s
Italian Porcelain, A Lane, Faber, & i5s
Roman pottery, R Charleston, Faber, £2 2S
Pocket book of French and Italian ceramic marks, Y P Cushion, Faber, i8s
4D George Savage verifies the genuineness of a new acquisition
Leeds
The Leeds pottery, D Touln Cory Adam, k4 4s
Liverpool
Liverpool porcelain of 18th century and its makers,
K Bonet’, Batsford, £6 6s
Longton Hall
Longton Hall porcelain, B Watney, Faber, C2 5s
Pinxton
The Pinxton china factory,
L C Exley, Coke-Steel, £r 2s 6d
Staffordshire
Good Sir Toby, D EvIes, Lewis, ‘I IOS
Early Staffordshire pottery, B Rackham, Faber, £r i os Collecting Staffordshire pottery, L Stanley, Allen, k3 3s Staffordshire portrait figures of Victorian age, T Balston, Faber, £3 3s
The pictorial pot lid book,
H G Clarke, Tantivy Press, (3 3s
Wedgwood
Wedgwood wares, W B Hone}’, Faber, Ci 15S
Wedgwood, 14′Mankou,itz, Batsford, £7 7s
Wedgwood ABC, HButen, Antique Finder, Ci 5s
Wedgwood artists, H Buten, Antique Finder, Ci 12S 611
Worcester
Worcester porcelain, F S Mackenna, Lewis, £7 7s Worcester porcelain, F A Barrett, Faber, C2 5s
Coloured Worcester porcelain of the first period, R Marshall, ,C12 I2S
Life and work of Robert Hancock, C Cook, Chapman & Hall, £2 2s
Victorian ware
x9th century English pottery and porcelain, G Bemrose, Faber, ,C2 5s
Victorian pottery and porcelain, B Hughes, Country Life, & 12s 6d
Victorian porcelain, A G Godden, Jenkins, C2 2s
Victorian pottery, H 111′a’-Pfield, Jenkins, & 2s
Art Gallery and Museum. Cheltenham, Glos (Englisiporcelain)
Athenaeum annexe, Manchester, Lancs (ceramics; BantockHouse,Wolverhampton, Staffs (Worcesterporcelain)
Bowes Museum, Barnard Castle, Durham (European porcelain) British Museum, London (all subjects)
Cecil Higgins Art Gallery, Bedford, Beds (general porcelain,, Charterhouse School, Godahning, Sy (Peruvian pottery, City Art Gallery, Leeds, Yorks (Leeds and Staffordshire pottery)
City Museum and Art Gallery, Birmingham, Works (Wedgwood; County Hall and Museum, Abingdon, Berks (Saxon pottery; The Curtis Museum, Alton Hants (general)
The Dyson Perrins Museum, Worcester, Worcs (It,orceste, porcelain)
Glynn Vivian Art Gallery, Swansea (Swansea and Nantgarw) Gulbenkian Museum of Oriental Art, Durham (Malcolm MacDonald collection of Chinese pottery and porcelain)
Holborn of Menstrie Museum, Bath, Som (general) Lady Lever Art Gallery, Port
34 Sunlight, Cheshire (Wedgwood)
Municipal Museum, Warrington, Lancs (Edelsten collection ofeeramics)
Museum and Art Gallery, Bootle, Lancs (Lancaster collection of English figure pottery and Bishop collection of Liverpool pottery) Museum and Art Gallery, Paisley (Renfrew) (ceramics) Museum and Art Gallery, Reading, Berks (Blotch collection of Delft)
Museum and Art Gallery, Rotherham, Yorks (Rockingham) Museum of Art, Hove, Sx (Pocock ceramic collection)
National Museum of Wales, Cardiff, Gloms (Swansea and Nantgarw)
Parc, Howard Museum, Llanelly, Corms (Llanelly pottery, Pharmaceutical Society’s Museum, London (Lambeth drug
jars)
Public Library, Southall, Middx (Martinware pottery collection)
The Sharp Collection, Wonersh, Surrey (China teapots) Spode-Copeland Museum, Stoke-on-Trent, Staffs (Spode and
Copeland)
Townley Hall Art Gallery, Burnley, Lanes (Chinese pottery) Victoria and Albert, London (all subjects)
Wallace Collection, London (English and European porcelain) The Wedgwood Museum, Stoke-on-Trent, Staffs (Wedgwood)
London
Take a trip down New Cavendish Street (the Baker Street end) and visit Cavendish Antiques, E A Baker, Artinterias and Dixon Mudd. All offer wide stock at all price ranges. Dixon Mudd is a regular exhibitor at the Chelsea Antique Fairs, where his stand is one of the most colourful and usually surrounded by admirers.
Mr Alexander Raghinsky is always ready with useful advice for the modest collector. He started his business by selling his own magnificent collection of ‘blue and white’ and his current stock includes specimens of most factories at prices ranging from 30s to real collector’s pieces. Mr Rahinsky can be found in Collectors Corner, Portobello Road, on Saturdays.
When you visit the Portobello Market, make a point of stopping at Mercury Antiques i Ladbroke Rd, close to Notting Hill Gate tube. Miss Liane Richards has a good stock for the amateur collector and
always offers continental pieces. She has just extended her premises to include the shop next door and often has a table full of slightly damaged pieces on the pavement outside. Commander Coxon is a familiar name to all collectors who visit antique fairs. He doesn’t have a shop nowadays, but is always available on Saturday in Collectors Corner at the Portobello Market, W1 I.
John Hall and David MacWilliams have a most unusual shop at 17 Harrington Rd, SW7.Theyspecialise in theatrical items and their stock includes a wide selection of Staffordshire portrait figures. The Victorians had the rather gruesome habit of making pottery models commemorating some of the more colourful crimes of the century. Models would be made depicting the murderer, the victim and often the scene of the crime. Examples of these and other portrait figures can be obtained at the above address, also at W W 35
Warner 226 Brompton Rd, SW3 and R Bonnets 582 King’s Rd, SW6.
Beauchamp Place, SW3 close to Harrods, is another centre for the collector’s notebook. David Newbon, Beauchamp Galleries and Gay Antiques have a good range of both English and continental items and at number 16 P & K Embden specialise in eighteenth century pieces, including a fine stock of Chinese ceramics of early date.
Chinese works of art are largely the prerogative of Mayfair dealers. Sydney Moss 51 Brook St, Wi has a fine stock, also John Sparks Ltd at 128. Bluest & Sons, 48 Davies St and Barling of Mount St Ltd together with Spink of King St, SW i are some of the names famous all over the world for their important stock of oriental ceramics.
At 66A Kensington Church St, W8, Hoff Antiques specialise in eighteenth century porcelain and M Impey 172 Walton St, SW3 offer early English pottery as well as eighteenth century Chinese and English porcelain.
36 Miss Fowler has an attractive
little shop at IA Duke St, Manchester Square, Wi. One comes across this shop rather unexpectedly and she has a fine stock of early ceramics.
George Savage of George Savage & Associates Ltd 9 Porchester Place, Connaught St, London W2 is the author of books ranging from the ever - popular Pelican Porcelain through the Ages to the American Birds of Dorothy Doughty which, priced at $6o, is one of the few books ever to enjoy the distinction of being at a premium on publication day. Another director, Diana Imber, is known for her scholarly translations of important books on continental wares and far eastern art. The company specialise in pottery and porcelain for collectors at all price-levels, and everything carries a warranty.
Some other London dealers in ceramics
(full addresses can be found in back of book)
SW: Albert Amor (r8th century English and continental porcelain), Canterburys (Antiques), Ltd, H R Hancock & Sons
(Chinese porcelain)
SW3 H E Backer (Continental porcelain), David Newton, Newman and Newman
Wx Antique Porcelain Co, Peter Boswell (specialists in tea and dinner services),
J J Drukker, Filkins, Lories, Manheim, Peerage Antiques
W8 Delomosne, Finearts, Jean Sewell
NWx F L Caira, T E Gascoigne
George Savage and his partner Diana /mbar discuss the merits of a piece of oriental sculpture
Home counties and southern England
Some of the best porcelain and pottery dealers are ladies. Take Vera Sutcliffe for instance. She has her shop in Croydon, Surrey. Here, many beautiful items will delight the connoisseur and she also undertakes expert restorative work. Swansea and Nantgarw, increasingly difficult to find, are amongst her specialities. Vera Sutcliffe can also be found at the Kensington Antique Fair.
Another specialist is Mrs Vicki Minoprio of 40 West St, Alresford. Although her shop is comparatively new, her experience goes back much further. Her shop is the result of many years collecting by Mrs Minoprio and her husband. Stock is of the finest quality and
does credit to the lovely old town of Alresford, Hants. (Main A31 Farnham to Winchester).
Amongst the south coast dealers we must mention Malcolm Anderson Bexhill, Sussex, for his stock of English, Continental and Chinese porcelain; also Trevor Antiques Brighton and Howard Lington of Bournemouth.
Pot lids have always been popular collectors’ items and are rapidly rising in price. Alexander Antiques Bletchingley, Surrey can be guaranteed to have some always in stock. The Old Forge Hollingbourne, Kent also try to keep a selection of these elusive items.
Hungerford, Barks boasts six antique shops. Riverside Antiques is a branch of the London firm Fine-arts Ltd and always has a good selection of porcelain, English, continental and Chinese.
Drug jars, whether they be maiolica originals or reproduction, have always been popular. Durston Antiques Petersfield, Hants and Quinney’s Sawbridgeworth, Herts, usually have some in stock.
Mr and Mrs Behrens have just moved into new premises in Winchester, and have many smaller pieces of porcelain to choose from.
Some other dealers in the home counties and south
Stewart Acton, Brighton, Sussex Adam House, Henley, Oxon J J Allen, Bournemouth, Hants Bennett & Stow, Alresford, Hants Bishop, Marlow, Bucks Margaret Cadman, Brighton, Sussex
Fortunate Finds, Eastbourne, Sussex (by appointment only)
Major & Mrs Grogan, Horsham, Sussex
Leon’s Antique Shop,
38 Tunbridge Wells, Kent
Winifred Williams, Eastbourne, Sussex
The west country and Wales
We don’t suppose there are many people who would drive miles to buy matching basin and ewer sets; getting rid of the things is usually the bigger problem. If you are thinking of throwing some out, send them down to Mr and Mrs Scammell in Morchard Bishop. In the heart of Devon their Glebe House has several showrooms of small general antiques – including a basin and ewer department!
A porcelain dealer out of the ‘top drawer’ is Andrew Dando of Bath. He has a large stock of all types of ceramics, English, continental and Chinese. Again, the usual warning when recommending Bath – Mr Dando is closed on Saturday afternoon.
Four specialists in Worcester porcelain in the west country are Arthur Philpott in Worcester itself;
Peter Jackson Falmouth and Studio Antiques Bourton - on - the - Water, Glos, who specialises in the Dr Wall period. Incidentally, the small coffee cups, typical of the early Worcester factory make an excellent collection. Many of these pieces are marked with the sign of the artist even if not that of the factory itself, whereas coffee cups from many other factories more often than not do not bear a mark on the cup – only on the saucer.
Stanley Fisher Bewdley, Worcs, is the author of British Pottery and Porcelain, and a leading specialist in Worcester pieces.
Nantgarw (pronounced nangaroo) and Swansea porcelain is the speciality of J Kyrie Fletcher Ltd of Newport. Due to the limited operating period of these factories, good examples are rather rare and collectors who wouldn’t have looked at a cracked dish a few years ago are now keen to snap up any piece that comes their way, especially if it is a marked piece. Mrs S L
0 Part of George Savage’s collection of Chinese porcelain
Chislett of Bradstone House, Lydney, Glos often has some pieces amongst her other porcelain stock, as has D S Hutchings of Newport, Mon.
At Dawlish in Devonshire is Arthur West, right opposite Dawlish Water. Mr West has some excellent pieces, and don’t be put off by the sight of modern Devon pottery on sale in the same premises. He had a most delightful collection of early English blue and white pieces on display in the window at our last visit.
Although primarily a trade supplier, Reginald Andrade gives a warm welcome to the private buyer. Having been in the antique business since 1907 he has a great wealth of experience and knowledge which he willingly passes on to the enthusiastic collector. Mr Andrade can be found in Plympton, Devon, in a large Victorian house, bursting with stock. He has at least ten showrooms devoted to ceramics and you have to pick your way around carefully for fear of trampling a Derby plate underfoot. It is best to know what you’re looking for before calling on Mr Andrade, otherwise the amount of pieces offered tend to confuse to the point of being overwhelming. Mr Andrade himself has a liking for jugs – of which he has a roomful, but he always finds space for one more, even if he has to hang it from the ceiling!
Ruskin pottery is a little known art to most people and we know only of one specialist. Robert Ferneyhough always has examples
as well as English and Chinese porcelain at Brook House, Henleyin-Arden, Warks.
Patrick Walker Burford, Oxon offers delftware with other pottery and porcelain items in this lovely old Costwold town.
In Wimborne Minster, Dorset Metcalfe,7ackson has premises with the strange-sounding name Trumpeters 25 West St. He stocks only top quality pieces and is extremely knowledgeable on Chinese art. Mr Jackson always has some oriental porcelain and pottery for sale.
`Antiques’ Bridport, Dorset, keeps a stock of coronation mugs. These are in a little display right at the back of the shop, easy to miss unless you know what you’re looking for.
Miss Valentine Ackland has a thriving business which she runs from her home in Maiden Newton, near Dorchester. She stocks mainly small items, with quite a lot of ceramic pieces which she sends by mail all over the world. Her house is called Frome Vauchurch and it is. rather difficult to find — so be prepared to ask a local the way. Miss, Ackland collects stock over a period of months and then publishes a mailing list. If you’d like to receive a copy, she’ll be pleased to hear from you.
Highly recommended, and especially for the pretty and peaceful environment in which she works, is, Mrs Gavin Young Longburton, near Sherborae, Dorset. Spring House is one of the prettiest
thatched houses in Dorset. Mrs Young, wife of the show-jumping judge Colonel Gavin Young, restores porcelain, pottery and enamels. She undertakes work by mail and will restore anything within reason. She also has pieces for sale both perfect and restored.
Dormy House Antiques at Marlborough in Wilts, always try to keep a good stock of commemorative jugs. ‘But they go out as fast as I can get them in’, complains Denys Bellerby, the owner.
Some other dealers in Wales and the west
G Deacon, Bath, Som.
Mrs H G James, Bodmin, Cornwall (Staffordshire portrait
figures)
C & D O’Donoghue, Torquay, Devon (by appointment only)
Old Timbers Antiques, Tewkesbury, Glos (lustre pottery)
East Anglia
Some especially fine stock can be seen in Cambridge at the premises of Collins & Clark, also at The Grange, Wroxham, Norfolk.
Edward Levine of Cromer, specialises in English and Chinese porcelain, also S H Partner of Colchester.
There is no sign to the premises of Peter A Crofts who has a lovely stock of English porcelain. To get to ‘Briar Patch’ you must take the
JOSEPH & EARLE D VANDEKAR
Members of the British Antique Dealers Association Porcelain • Glass • Pottery • Paperweights
Ormolu • Furniture

If we think of a chair as something to sit on, and a dining-chair as something to sit on at meal-times, there seems to be no reason why one dining-chair should be different from another. We would expect a difference between a dining-chair and an arm-chair, because they are made for people to sit on in different positions, and we would expect a difference between two dining-chairs made to go with dining-tables of different heights. But for the last three hundred years all dining-tables have been of almost exactly the same height, and all dining-chairs have been of very nearly the same size; at least, their essential dimensions—the height, width, and depth of seat—have been very nearly the same. Yet if we were to collect a series of dining-chairs made at intervals of ten years during the last three hundred years, we should find that each chair differed slightly from the preceding chair, and that chairs separated by intervals of fifty years or so might have almost nothing in common but their size. And if we then collected a complete roomful of furniture made at the same time as each of the chairs, we should see that certain peculiarities of the chair were repeated in the other pieces of furniture–the kind of wood it was made of, the general shape of the legs, the details of its decoration, for instance. The chair, in fact, would have more in common with a cupboard made at the same time than with another chair made fifty years previously.
A room furnished in 1750 would have a different appearance from a room furnished in 1780. The furniture would be made of a different wood, decorated in a different way, and the shapes of the chair-backs and legs, and of the feet of cupboards, and all the details of locks and drawer-handles, would be different. The two rooms would contain much the same quantity of furniture and much the same kind of furniture—not many new pieces of furniture were invented between 1750 and 1780; but the furniture would be in two different styles,
In the history of furniture there have been very many different styles. There were various styles of furniture in China, in Egypt, in Greece, and Rome, before furniture was ever made in England or France or Germany. But we can learn a good deal about the way in which styles develop, and the way in which one style changes into another, and the reasons for these changes, if we examine the history of furniture in just two countries, France and England. It is interesting to study the history of styles in all countries. But our purpose here is to try to find out why one style differs from another, and how a change of furniture style corresponds with a change in ways of living and of thinking. A study of comparatively recent periods of furniture in the European part of the world will be the most useful. For it will help us to understand what has caused the present confusion in furniture-making about problems of style.
Our survey of styles will be very limited, covering in detail the furniture of only two of the countries of the world. But the furniture of these two countries shows a fairly complete development from the simplest carpenter-made pieces to the most elaborate work of the cabinet-makers. From the eleventh to the nineteenth century all the possible methods of making furniture by hand were used by the French and English furniture-makers. At the beginning of the medieval period the carpenters started making furniture with little experience in woodworking behind them, and with few models surviving from the past. As we have seen, furniture-makers rediscovered one by one all the methods of woodworking known to former civilizations, but lost in the meantime. Thus the history of French and English furniture gives a complete picture of furniture developments all over the world—from the technical point of view, at any rate.
Moreover, not all the peoples of the world use furniture as much as it is used in western Europe. Oriental peoples lead a less active indoor life than we do. They have more soft furnishings than furniture: carpets and rugs, cushions and divans. The few pieces of furniture they have are often beautiful and technically perfect. But there is little in their technique that has not been used in France and in England—except, perhaps, the Chinese method for making lacquered furniture and panels; and the appearance of their furniture has had a considerable influence on European taste. The Spanish, too, have been subject to Oriental influence, through the Moorish occupation of Spain. By nature they are not given to using much furniture; but their traditional pieces have a distinct character of their own. It has already been said that the principal piece of furniture in the chief room of a Spanish peasant house is a stone bench. In richer Spanish houses the furniture is elegantly severe; the pieces are large, and there are few of them. Indoor life in Spain is more formal than in most European countries; all the freedom and gaiety are out of doors.
Italian Renaissance furniture served as a model for French Renaissance furniture; but since the Renaissance there has been little change in Italian furniture besides fantastic decorative developments. The German and Russian Court furniture consisted of heavy copies of French Court furniture. Much of the German Alpine and Russian provincial furniture is interesting; but the extremely cold winters in the places where such furniture was in use caused stoves to be more highly valued and elaborately decorated. American furniture-makers have developed styles of their own from English and other European styles, and sometimes their work surpasses their English models. The American Windsor chair, for instance, is considered by some connoisseurs to be better proportioned than the English Windsor chair; and the American Empire style was continued longer, and with better results, than the Empire style of any European country. But to study in detail the furniture of many countries would not help us to form a clear notion of modern problems of style.
Styles differ from one another in three ways : in construction methods, in material used, and in decorative treatment. Construction methods were developed slowly, and, as we have seen, there were only three principal systems of construction—those of the carpenters, of the joiners and of the cabinet-makers. There was a major style change in every country when carpenters’ methods were abandoned for joiners’, and when joiners’ methods were abandoned for cabinet-makers’. We have also seen how the material used is bound up with the method of construction —how the carpenters and joiners used home-grown medium woods, and how the cabinet-makers used tropical hard-woods. In these two respects of methods and materials the general development of styles has been the same in all European countries. The long series of detailed changes in style is a history of decorative treatment alone : so much is decorative treatment a key to style that an expert can tell from a mere fragment of a piece of furniture—a carved leaf or a small area of marquetry—the exact style and period of the piece.
The history of decorative treatment in France, and in most countries of continental Europe, may be divided into six main parts, each having its own system of decorative conventions. They are called the Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Classical Revival, and nineteenth-century styles. These six styles are sub-divided into many styles of comparatively short duration.
Overleaf is a table of the French furnishing styles from about A.D. 1100 till the beginning of the present century. The table gives a general plan of the different styles and their periods, but it is not, and could not be, exact: since one style merges slowly into another, and the reigns of kings do not correspond with changes in furniture taste.
ROMANESQUE (1100-1300)
Romanesque furniture was made by carpenters, according to carpenters’ methods of construction—heavy planks, joints without glue, and iron bands. Very little of this furniture survives, but some chests, turned chairs, a few beds and trestle tables are to be found in museums. Most of the surviving furniture is religious rather than domestic—benches from churches and monasteries and monastery tables. Some furniture from castles also survives, mostly chests and tables. The only people to have furniture in France between 1100 and 1300 were the religious communities and the lords of castles. The castles fared even worse than the churches in the wars of medieval and Renaissance Eur- ope; this is why there are so few pieces of domestic furniture left.
During these times people did not travel very much, and ships did not carry large cargoes : the carpenters used the wood they found growing near them. France was then largely covered with forests of oak, beech, elm, chestnut, fruit trees, and softwood conifers. In the north of France oak was most frequently used for furniture; in the south, oak, walnut, and some fruit-woods such as cherrywood were used.
The principal piece of Romanesque domestic furniture was the chest. It served to store things in the castles, and as a wardrobe-trunk for travelling. The word trunk comes from the first chests hollowed out of tree-trunks. Chests could also be used as seats, beds, and tables. The tables consisted of boards laid on trestles, sometimes supported and made more permanent by iron stays; they could be taken down and stored away, or packed up and moved in times of trouble. Benches were comparatively rare, except in the more stable religious communities, where there was less risk of having to pack up and go.
Romanesque furniture was decorated with carving and painting, and decorative iron-work. The carved motifs consisted of geometrical patterns, Biblical and legendary pictures, and traceries of round arches derived from Romanesque architecture. From the evidence of illustrated manuscripts and signs on the few pieces of Romanesque furniture that we have, it seems that most of the furniture was brightly painted—both in solid colours, and, on the parts that were not carved, in pictures.
GOTHIC (1300-1500)
From about 1300 to 1400 the furniture was still made by carpenters, who were, however, by this time beginning to discover the methods of joinery. In some early Gothic chests joined frames were used, but the frames were boarded over with thick planks—thin panels were not yet used. Most of the furniture, in fact, was like the Romanesque furniture in construction, although Gothic detail (traceries of pointed arches, for instance) was introduced into the carving.
By about 1400 the methods of joinery had been perfected. The new furniture was made by the joiners. Their work differed greatly from that of the carpenters, for they dispensed with iron bands and used framed panels. They continued to make furniture of the same native woods that the carpenters worked in. The carpenters still made some furniture, especially in the country districts.
Gothic furniture that has survived includes bench-ends from churches, stalls in cathedrals, chests and tables, chairs with box-seats (like chests) and straight panelled backs, a few cupboards on legs, and turned chairs. The box-chairs sometimes had carved canopies over them. The religious furniture was, of course, public furniture, and it was made to look like the religious buildings—the same kind of detail that we see on a Gothic cathedral was imitated to a smaller scale on Gothic furniture. Since the Church was the most important institution at the time, the domestic furniture was made in the same style as the religious furniture : private furniture imitated public furniture because the Church dominated private life.

FILLERS AND CEMENTS
Fillers and cements arc used for the repair of china, glass, wood and occasionally metal. Adhesives are also used as fillers and cements, with the addition of a little colouring matter or powder to give them colour, body or both.
Plastic Padding. Described in the section on adhesives, this makes a useful filler for metalwork because of its colour, and it needs no further additives for this work. It is not usually used for china restoration work.
Wood fillers. There are several makes of plastic wood which are used as fillers for small holes in woodwork.
Wood filling compounds of various kinds and in various colours can be bought, in proprietary brands, and these are tenacious and excellent. When dry, fillers can be sanded to a smooth finish. Epoxy resin fillers such as Araldite, suitably coloured with dry powder pigments or oil paints, can be used as fillers for rebuilding small missing sections of woodwork. The slow drying of sonic types
makes them rather difficult to use, and care must be taken that, in larger repairs, shrinkage does not leave hair cracks between the new pieces and the old.
Various compounds are used for filling, and making casts and pressed moulds, and for modelling new pieces where it is not possible to make moulds.
Bondapaste. This is an excellent adhesive filler which can be built up on itself in layers, and when hard can be worked with files and gravers. It is a good filler and cement for china restoration needing no additive. It dries quickly so any moulding or modelling must be done fast.
Isopon. This is a paste filler which is mixed with a hardener. It dries quickly and doesn’t shrink under heat, and it needs no parting agent to separate it from the mould. It can be fined and abraded with glass paper and other abrasives. It sticks to itself so it can be used in layers, but it does not stick to china, so after hardening and removal of the mould, it must be stuck to the china with Araldite, exactly as if it were an ordinary broken piece. It can only be worked for about ten minutes before it becomes too tacky, but this is an advantage when you are fairly practised and it can be used for quite large pieces without internal support as it sets fast, so will not sag so readily as a slower setting filler. The fact that it will not adhere to plasticine also allows props and pads of plasticine to be used to support it while it is drying.
Plaster of Paris. Widely used for the making of moulds, it is quick drying and easy to handle, but it is not suitable by itself as a filler, being too soft and porous.
Seccotine with dental plaster. A hard setting adhesive mixture which is very useful for small repairs to gesso where the object is never going to come into contact with water.
Cascantite with dental plaster. Another good mixture, which can be cut and shaped with woodworking tools, provided it has not dried out completely (see Adhesives for details of Cascamite). It has the disadvantage that it must be stuck into place as it is not self-adhesive. It is most useful for filling Alabaster which it matches perfectly.
Araldite. The two tube epoxy resin adhesive described in the section on Adhesives is the most versatile filler, having but two disadvantages. It is rather sticky to use, and it dries very slowly so cannot be used for large unsupported pieces. However, it sticks so well to the object being mended, and, when set, it approaches so closely the appearance of biscuit china, that many restorers prefer it to the quicker setting compounds. It can be mixed with whitening, or kaolin or titanium dioxide to make a filler for china. Mixed with these same materials, it is also an excellent cement for use when dowelling.
Sawdust, stone powder, metallic powder, colouring pigments, either dry powder or oil paint, will all mix with Araldite to simulate almost anything you like to name.
will
It blend and adhere to the whole piece and strengthen it enormously. In the old days, plaster of Paris was used for this kind of building and restoration, but it was not strong or waterproof, whereas epoxy resins are both. Ali example mentioned in the section oil Aniis and Armour is the building up of an old worm-eaten gunstock with epoxy resins coloured to match. It can be injected by hypodermic syringe into wooden holes or cracks where it will strengthen and preserve. Unfortunately it will not take a very high Polish which may limit its use.
Fillers for Glasswork. Modern acrylic resins, which are usually powders with which a liquid is mixed, are ideal for glass restoration and repair, as if mixed with care so that there are no air bubbles present, they set to a trans- parent, very slightly yellow material which is as near to glass as you can get. Acrylic resins call be coloured with dry powder pigments to simulate coloured glass or china, and sonic can be bought already coloured.
Tensol Cement No. 7 and Aertilite Cold Curing Resin are two excellent products in this range. his is another versatile acrylic resin mentioned several times in this book. It can be used, mixed fairly thinly, to coat things made from cane or wickerwork to strengthen or preserve them, and to mend glass or certain types of china. With care it can be mixed with dry powder pigments to simulate jasper (`Wedgwood’) ware. Acrylics are not particularly difficult to handle, and in fact they are great fun to experiment with. They make excellent solid `glass cases’ for small objects which you wish to preserve. The technique for doing this is not within the scope of this book, but it is easy enough to work out for yourself, bearing in mind normal casting techniques!
Use acrylics according to makers’ instructions in so far as mixing etc. is concerned.
Gilder’s Coinpo. Invented by the Adam brothers, it has ever since been used for all kinds of moulding work instead of woodcarving, and is still a most excellent material for repairing moulded picture frames or some types of nioulding on furniture and fittings.
Recipe I.
i lb. Scotch glue 2 lbs. resin
i gill real turpentine T pint linseed oil whiting
Dissolve die glue in a gallon of water. Boil the resin, the turpentine and the oil together, and then add to the glue and water. Boil the whole lot together until the liquid has reduced a little, so that the mixture is not too runny. Add this to the whiting powder in a bucket, stirring constantly until the whole has the consistency of dough.Boil all the ingredients together for half an hour, and then add to a bucket containing whiting, rather as one adds milk and eggs to a bowl of flour when making batter. Mix until the compo has the consistency of dough.
FLY MARKS
Fly marks call be scratched offmany objects with a sharp knife or even with the point of a needle. Chalk mixed with a little ammonia will remove fly blows from a hard surface such as stone. Fly blows on glass or any surface which will
can
not be damaged by it ca be removed by washing with a five per cent solution of caustic soda, followed by rinsing. Solvents such as petrol or benzine will remove fly marks, but will also remove varnish, so be careful.
Fly marks on prints call sometimes be removed by alternate baths of ]lot and cold water in that order, and then drying out between pieces of blotting paper.
FRAMES
Painting and Texturing. Picture frames come in all shapes and sizes, complicated and simple, and there are just as many techniques for restoring and renovating them. They can be cleaned and painted with varnish or matching paint, gilded, given two-tone or antique finishes, textured or spattered. It depends a great deal on the type of frame which of these methods is used, and also oil the picture, which could well be killed by all over-weight frame or one coloured incorrectly. The frame should never be lighter in colour than the lightest part of the painting. Don’t put a white frame round a picture which does not contain white. If the frame is too glossy, the highlights distract the eye from the picture itself. Frames can also be made into trays, by adding a suitable centre, or into mirrors. Frames for watercolours, pastels, or photographs, which have glasses, should be as simple as possible so as not to overpower the picture.
First clean the frame thoroughly. Oil a simple wooden one, detergent, water and sandpaper all carefully used should remove old grease and grime. While the frame is drying, the type of repainting or decoration ion can be decided upon. If it is a plain frame in good condition, a light rub down with a fine grade of sandpaper will probably be all that is needed before a new coat of varnish is applied. Of course the varnish call be taken off, and the frame left in its natural wood state and just lightly rubbed with wax Polish, but if the old surface is stained or badly scratched, the new coat must be opaque, and some kind of paint is the answer. Ordinary household paint or plastic emulsion in a suitable colour looks quite well, but with a little more trouble, really exciting finishes call be obtained, and in most cases a broken finish definitely  looks best.
Polymer colour water based paints made either by Rowney under the trade name of Cryla, or by Reeves under the name of Polymer colours, are particularly useful, as they can be applied very thinly producing a pickled effect over stained wood, or else thick as squeezed from the tube, and then figured, or used for two-tone work. Polymer paints contain water and should be water thinned to the required consistency, not with turps or white spirit. They dry very rapidly, but if you want to slow down the process, use the special retarder. The colours, which conic ili the full range of artist’s oil paint colours, mix very well, and when dry will have a slight sheen, which is excellent for frames. A gloss medium is obtainable, or, although it is not really necessary as the paint is quite waterproof when dry, it can be overpainted with a polymer varnish to keep the frame in first class condition for years. Any tools or brushes used to apply the polymer paints should be washed thoroughly in water before they dry out, but if this is forgotten, a soaking overnight iii methylated spirit will the trick. Acetone will also dissolve these colours.
Texturing with polymer colours is not too difficult. The paint should have the consistency of thick cream. It should be painted on to the frame fairly thickly and, while it is still sticky, textured with a comb, toothbrush, an old wire brush, or anything else you caii think of that would scrape interesting patterns in the paint. A little practice on an odd scrap of wood painted with polymer, will give you some idea of texturing. Another method is to put oil different coloured layers of polymer, letting each one dry before adding rile next, and cut through these with varying pressures to get the colours showing through at different levels. Diagonal, cross, mitre or lengthwise strokes can be used, and if you get really ambitious, all sorts of curved lines and squiggles. Another way of texturing is to paint the frame with polymer, and then while it is still sticky, sprinkle on a little sand, or rice, or any other small hard grained substance, shake off the surplus, and when dry overpaint with another thinner layer of polymer, and then finish with polymer varnish. A small sponge gently pressed into sticky paint will also give an interesting finish, especially if the two-tone effect is desired, using a double layer of paint. Spattering gives a nice spotty effect and should be applied over the plain basic colour oil the frame by gently tapping a water paint brush loaded with the colour you want to apply. To make large spots hold the brush near the surface, and with a little experimentation the size of the spots can easily be adjusted.
One very useful process for finishing off plain frames or parts of ornamental ones is to rub on colour. This gives a nice soft finish and it is particularly good for insets, which can look far too hard and glaring against a light toned picture. Any oil based paint call be used and a handkerchief should be lightly smeared with this, and then the surplus paint rubbed off on an old piece of newspaper. The lightly charged cloth is rubbed gently 01, the frame, and the pressure increased until the right effect is obtained. The cloth should be recharged as necessary, but never too much as the more sparingly paint is applied tile softer tile finish will look, and it is not necessary to work it in too evenly. Burnt sienna is a particularly good colour for insets. If you want a simple gilded effect a paste made by Reeves called Restoration or an American product called Treasure Wax Gilt do an excellent job. They come in many roues of gold, bronze or silver, and are very easily applied with a cloth or finger oil to tile cleaned surface. If a bright finish is required, it should be put on fairly thickly and allowed to dry completely before being rubbed down with a soft cloth. This method is by far the best way to touch up any old gilding as the application of gold leaf is really an expert’s job (see Gilding).
heavy piece of chain, are common enough practices with disreputable dealers, but any old frame bought in a junk shop will probably have enough natural blemishes to make this unnecessary, and it all sounds rather too violent. Applications of different paints can make almost any frame look a lot older mid more interesting than it really is. Coats of paint are rubbed oil in, irregular patches and then smoothed down lightly with fine sandpaper. Deep depressions can be left dark, and bright colours should be put on sparingly. Yellow ochre, chrome yellow, raw uniber, venetian red and bumf sienlia, are all suitable colours, and when they have dried out and been sanded down, a thin coat of burnt sienna diluted with turpentine is overpainted, and later spots of gold or silver Restoration or Treasure Gilt call be rubbed oil in small areas, or tile whole frame spattered. The effect of old gold leaf call be obtained by painting the frame with a thick layer of venetian red, and then repainting with a good quality bronze paint such as Treasure Gold Liquid Leaf When it is dry, it should be rubbed with steel wool until the red shows through in places. Restoration wax call be used instead of the bronze paint, just put on rather unevenly, but it must be remembered that genuine gold leaf gets rubbed off in natural wear and tear on the raised surfaces, while tile depressions will keep the gold, and it is not so easy to get a natural finish without any rubbing off.
Mending. Old picture frames get pretty knocked about in junk shops, especially when tile pictures have been removed and tile glass broken. Usually it is the corners which go, the whole frame wringing in all directions. Corners can be strengthened quite easily (see Fig. 17)_ If the glue and the tacks which secure the frame have gone, take the frame to pieces, and remove the remains of the tacks and clean off  Sand the faces of the comers down to the natural wood, so that you have a clean surface to work on, and then put an impact adhesive, on both faces of the comers and leave it for the time specified by its makers before bringing the two faces together. In order to get good right-angled corners, use a comer cramp. These c.-ui be bought at hardware stores and arc so useful that I really do suggest that you get one and do not try to square the comer any other way, although it can be done. One method is to work with the frame on its face. Put the two faces together and square the comer using a try square to measure it and then tack a thin piece of wood diagonally across, so that the frame is held rigid until the join has set. This will hold the corners accurately, but will not put any tension on the join. To hold the comer, in addition to the adhesive, drive tacks in diagonally across the join, making sure that you don’t use tacks so long that they come right and also try to get them into the through the other side, and
thickest section of the frame. Small holes can be drilled across the corner, and a woodc’, peg inserted. If you mean to do this, it is best to drill the hole with the frame held tight in the corner cramp, before putting on the glue.
If it is not possible to mend the frame iri this way, or if you do not want to dismantle it entirely, the corners can be dowelled, or a plate can be screwed on to the corners, at the back. Depending on how big and heavy the frame is, put in a strip or triangular corner plate (see Fig. 17). If a strip is used, sink it into the frame by cutting right across the corner to the depth of the strip with a tenon saw, and then chipping out the piece with a chisel. Wooden strips and plates are better than metal ones, and plywood is fine for the job.
If you wish to make a frame smaller, this can be done without separating all the covers. Measure opposite sides to the correct lengths, at opposite ends, then cut through the two corners using a mitre box, and rejoin (see Fig. 18). When measuring frames, always remember that the edge of the frame overlaps the glass and the picture, and that you must allow for this when measuring. It is easier to measure your picture and/or glass, and then measure the frame at the inside edge of the rebate which takes the picture.
Mending Mouldhnq. If the plaster moulding of a picture franc is really badly damaged, you can always strip it all off and just use the basic wooden frame. A power drill with a rough sanding disc will take off a lot of the old plaster quickly, but some of the awkward angles will have to be done with a hand scraper.
Clean all mouldings with a hog’s hair paint brush, a sponge mid methylated spirit. Never make a frame too wet or the plaster may dissolve.
plaster mouldings are all too often broken off in great lumps. Replace these quite simply by making a moulding from an identical, but unbroken section of the frame. This is done in the same way as pressed moulding for china (see Fig. rg). Make a mould with Plasticine for small sections, and then cast a piece by pouring plaster of Paris in the mould, or preferably for small sections by making a filler with Araldite mixed with kaolin powder (use a parting agent in this case), or Cascamite and dental plaster, and pressing this into the mould. The pressing is allowed to harden and then, before it is so hard that it will not stick, is carefully put in place on the break. A little straight Araldite adhesive on the face of the broken part will help adhesion. To make a mould of a large section, or one which has any undercutting which would hook round a plasticiric pressing, use dental impressioncompound (Paribar) and make a pressed mould with this, first greasing the moulding with vaseline. Paribar can be reused many times, and no parting agents are needed before putting in
the plaster of Paris filler.
Gilder’s Compo can be used (see Fillers) and this is recommended for extensive work. It has many other uses for moulding of all kinds and is the traditional material—superseded, but not necessarily improved upon, by plastics and resins.
The mouldings can also be made in Isopon or Bondapaste filler, which dries much more quickly than Aralditc. It is a matter of personal preference, really. All these materials make mouldings which when set can be cleaned tip with needle files and abraded with glass paper until they are satisfactorily smooth.
ruler with a bevel edge and a Stanley knife (see Tools), and cut the board with a bevel. Special mat trimmers can be bought from artists’ suppliers. The secret is to cut the bevel the same all the way round and to get the comers neat. The knife must be perfectly sharp. It is difficult to stop the ruler from slipping about, and a strip of very fine sandpaper stuck oil will the bottom of it wihelp. The bevel edge can be gilded if liked.
The mat is placed oil the picture, which in turn has been put on a mount which is bigger than the hole in the mat. Photographic mountant is excellent for this job, either the paste type, or, if there is no danger involved in heating your picture, the type which is painted on with a brush and then bonded by pressure with a warm iron.
Mounts arc just pieces of cart{    which the picture is stuck; the mount being big enough to fit the frame exactly.
Linings are rather more complex, and call be most effective, both for bringing a frame down in size, and for making a picture look better. A lining may be just a strip of gilded wood inside the main frame, or it may be a wider inner frame covered with material such as linen or velvet or sheet metal. The wood inner frame is made exactly to fit the rebates of the main frame, and is mitred at the corners. The covering material may be stuck or pinned to the lining. In order to make a neat job at the corners, it is usually best to cover the pieces before joining them.
One last word—always check wire, cord and screws used for hanging up pictures—more often than not the wire is rusted, the string is rotten, and screw rings are rusted or loose. It call be a little disappointing if two weeks later all your hard work oil painting, moulding and mending together with that expensive piece of glass end up in a shattered heap on the floor.

Stools, Chairs and Settees
Early forms of stools—development of the chair—scarcity of chairs before the 17th century—etiquette of the joined stool—upholstered farthingale chairs—”monk seats” and Commonwealth chairs—Restoration chair design—characteristics of William and Mary chairs—Queen Anne cabriole legs and the fiddle splat—wing chairs—Chippendale chair designs—chair backs of Hepplewhite—Adam’s classical shapes—Sheraton elegance—Regency and early Victorian chairs—the mystery of the Windsor chair—harlequin sets—the emergence of the settle—love seats and the development of the settee two tiered tables .
On a marble panel in Athens which dates from around 400 B serving tray antique tea table for sale .c antique butler type ashtrays . a woman is to be seen seated on a chair which has all the characteristics of a British chair of the Regency period antiquing furniture . The designers of Regency furniture, like Thomas Hope and Henry Moses, went to the ancient civilisations for their inspiration and this chair in the Athenian sculpture is an interesting case of “it has all happened before” 6 legged table antique .
After the disorders of the Dark Ages when so much of art and craftsmanship was lost, the way of making beautiful and serviceable things had to be rediscovered or reinvented antique regency revival sideboard . At the beginning of the early Tudor period it can be said that in any house, even of the greatest importance, most people had to be content to sit on stools blacks, meissen, porcelain . Sometimes these were of the planked type as illustrated in Chapter 1, but more often they were made of turned wood with triangular shaped seats women brass lamps . This type of stool was common throughout northern Europe and when they are encountered it is difficult to say what may have been their country of origin painted romer glass .
Small chests were also used as seats in early times and formed one of the sources from which the chair developed, the other being the triangular-seated stool japanese black lacquer round tea table . In both these instances the need to provide additional support for the body brought about the addition of backs and arms to the stools antique french office chair . The first box or chest chairs were very heavy and cumbersome and it became evident that there was little advantage in constructing chairs in this way antique half circle dropleaf table . For a short while this type of chair was made without the lower side and back panels but with the front panel still included staffordshire figure lovers couple . By the middle of the 16th century the oak armchair, without any lower panels in the framework, was to be found in most houses of the reasonably well-to-do antique porcelain +swan +painted .
A custom, lasting for many years, delayed the employment of the chair for general use black stinkwood table sale . During the second half of the 16th and for the greater part of the 17th century it was commonly accepted that only the head of the family or the master of the house should occupy a chair 2 tier adams style table lid . In some homes a thoughtful husband might provide a chair for his wife but as for the rest of the household, they had to use stools or remain standing wiener werkstatte chair . The modern word chairman, to denote the head of a committee, is probably derived from this ancient practice earthenware mixing bowls antique with handles . On a point of etiquette, observed in Britain during the 17th century, a host and his wife would vacate their chairs when entertaining an important guest and would sit on joined stools, as a mark of deference, while the guest occupied a chair american spoonback armchair .
The heavy oak arm-chair of the late Elizabethan and the early Stuart periods was of very much the same pattern with turned legs and a carved or inlaid panel in the chair-back candlestick 17th century church . The only marked difference in construction was in the top rail of the back antique display cabinet half round . While the Elizabethan chair had the top rail jointed between the uprights, the Stuart version had the uprights jointed into the top rail which projected at the sides and was supported by “ears” or small brackets 18th century card table .
The joined stool must have been made in considerable numbers during the 17th century as it was frequently referred to in bequests and inventories empire pier table . Nowadays, it is sometimes called a coffin stool which is rather a misnomer breakfast serving tables . It is true that in many old churches joined stools are to be found carrying piles of hymn books or collecting boxes and occasionally they may have been used for supporting a coffin during a burial service, but they were certainly not designed for that purpose european porcelain marks 1742 . A joined stool was the average person’s seat in the 17th-century household, either at the dining table or around the fire kidney shaped tables antique . It is likely that those found in old churches today were banished there from the vicarage when custom and funds permitted the parson to provide himself with the more comfortable chairs botanical antique ceramics collectors .
While chairs with wooden seats were in use throughout the 17th century and also during the 18th in the houses of country-folk, upholstereed chairs did appear in the early Stuart period antique extend side table . These, like the farthingale chairs, have already been mentioned in a previous chapter but during the Commonwealth somewhat heavy oak dining chairs were taken into use about the same time as the gate-leg table appeared thomas sheraton games table . These were similar to the farthingale chairs but had lower seats and higher backs which were upholstered in thick leather and edged with large brass round-headed nails antique empire pier table .
An interesting, dual-purpose piece of furniture was developed about this time satsuma pottery thousand flower . Known as a table-chair, it was constructed so that when the table-top was tilted to a vertical position it formed the back of a chair kidney shape dressing table . It is sometimes referred to as a monk’s seat, but the Dissolution of the Monasteries and the consequent banishment of the monks from the British way of life had occurred over a hundred years before the table-chair was invented 19th century tables .
The chief characteristic of Restoration chair design was the spiral twist for legs and backs english refectory table . A favourite motif of the wood-carver for chair decoration was the device of two cherubs, or amorini, supporting a royal crown c 1840 antique pedestal card table . This was inspired by the return of the monarchy after the Commonwealth and remained in popular favour until the close of the century antique secretaire . Chairs of the better quality were usually made in walnut but in the provinces many dining chairs were produced in oak 18th century chamber pots . Two varieties of these are usually referred to as Yorkshire and Lancashire chairs antique chair tall skinny back . They were quite heavily made and the former had two shaped and rounded back-rails, decorated with carving and bearing a small bearded mask century hepplewhite walnut card table . Traditionally, this was said to represent the death mask of the martyred Charles I and earned for this Yorkshire type the name of mortuary chair antique soup terrines . The Lancashire chairs, on the other hand, have panelled backs and I have an example in my possession on which the carving is very similar to that on a set in the ancient Chetham’s School, Manchester, which dates from the mid-17th century royal sheffield candlesticks . The finials on the uprights of my chair are the same as those on a settle which appears in Brueghel’s painting The Village Wedding meissen scattered flowers tea sets . The Brueghel picture was painted about 1530 and so we realise the slow movement of continental influence showing itself in the north of England over a hundred years later 16th century japanese tables .
Portuguese and Spanish characteristics, entering England directly through royal marriages or more deviously through France and the Netherlands, considerably affected the design of William and Mary chairs scriptoire . Here is found the tall, narrow back and the scrolled foot which during the reign of Queen Anne was to develop into thy, cabriole leg art deco polished matte lost-wax castings o nude women in bronze by viennese artisans . On these chairs the design of the upper back rail is often repeated in the lower front rail antique chippendale dining chairs with bronze leg decoration .
The type of chair which evolved during the first decade
of the 18th century was very pleasing to the eye antique brown staffordshire . The first cabriole legs were quite plain but the chair-makers of the lime did not consider that the chair legs were sufficiently strong to be made without connecting stretchers antique dining room with bulbous legs . However, by introducing a deeper seat rail it became possible to make a stronger joint at the top of the chair leg and eventually the stretchers were dispensed with altogether antique dresser names . The chair-backs of the Queen Anne period were of a pleasantly rounded appearance with a fiddle-shaped central splat, curved to support the sitter’s back meissen figures .
During the early Georgian period the cabriole leg remained in favour and without the stretchers was more sturdily fashioned than the finer Queen Anne shape 17th century writing desk . Moreover, it became the custom in the better class of chair to ornament the knees of the cabriole legs with carved shells, acanthus leaves or satyr masks american art deco bar furniture . Instead of a simple pad at the bottom of the leg, the ball and claw foot was adopted 19th century pennsylvania furniture prices . This was a pattern derived from a Chinese dragon motif which clasped in its claw a celestial pearl 19th century antique hall table . All-over upholstery of chair backs now became fashionable, but it was a vogue which died out when Chippendale and his contemporaries introduced the elaborately carved chair backs of the mid-18th century duncan phyfe table and buffet .
Chippendale included a straight, square sectioned leg among the designs for his chairs and when made in the Chinese taste these were covered in low-relief carving to simulate lattice work edward round drum tables . As if there was some doubt as to the structural efficiency of these legs, the use of stretchers was re-introduced art deco round glass chinese painted coffee table value . Chair backs were generally rectangular, whether the style was Gothic, Chinese or one of the many rococo patterns which decorated the pierced splats antique bedside toilet . Some of these complicated designs from Chippendale’s Director were rather pleasingly simplified by country craftsmen, e antique silver fish knives ivory handle .g english knife box . the well-known rush-seated ladder-back chair early american wall mirror .
Around the beginning of the 18th century the wing-wardly curving upholstered arms and cabriole feet antique german breakfast table . Later in the century the arms were made more upright and the side wings larger victorian cherry drop leaf table . The wing-chair is deceptive both in size and comfort small antique dressing table with cabriole legs . It often looks smaller than it really is and care should be taken before buying one to ensure that it will really fit in wherever it is intended to go early 19th century mahogany desks with lion feet . Although the winged chair marked a great advance in human comfort at the time, the unsprung seating feels hard compared with the resilience of 20th-century upholstery antique inlaid marquetry dutch chairs .
While George Hepplewhite was known to have made a considerable quantity of furniture to the designs of Robert Adam, he himself was probably responsible for many well-known types of chair such as the shield-back, the oval-back and the feathers pattern sofa table mahogany antique . The backs of Hepplewhite’s chairs were more rounded than those of his predecessors and he also favoured tapered legs which were often fluted utensils used in britain for cooking . His furniture generally was of a lighter appearance than that which had gone before occasional tables painted india . Sets of dining chairs usually consisted of ten or twelve single chairs and two arm-chairs or carvers antique rectangular drop leaf dining table . These latter were designed to accommodate the broad figures and full frock coats of the l8th-century gentlemen and the seats were made proportionately wide rue la la . The curve and sweep of the arms is also noteworthy for they were cut from solid blocks of mahogany of a size which would make it uneconomic to employ in modern reproductions “myott, son & co” .
Robert Adam designed his chairs to match the classical interior decoration of the houses he built vintage wooden card table . They had turned and fluted or tapered legs and the lyre-back pattern was typical 19th century glass fronted cabinet . He contrived some elegant gilded chairs whose backs were adorned with small painted medallions on which appeared figures from Greek and Roman mythology georgian dressing tables . These were painted by contemporary artists like Angelica Kauffmann and Zucchi lenci mermaid figurines . Adam also introduced the fashion for painted beechwood furniture, and chairs in this style were often finished in black or white paint, neatly lined with gilding kem weber furniture designer prices .
For some time previously gilded furniture had enjoyed considerable popularity art deco reproductions clock . It is said that it was first introduced according to the wishes of the wives of those Georgian gentlemen who were filling their Palladian mansions with the rich but somewhat sombre mahogany furniture rare antique drop leaf . Quite a large proportion of this gilded furniture was imported from France and it is very difficult to identify English made chairs from the French originals german antique work tables . French chairs are believed to have upholstered pads on the arms and small peg-like ends to the scrolled feet while English gilded chairs are supposed not to have had any upholstery on the arms while the scrolls reached right down to the end of the legs bauhaus style furniture +scale . 1 have, however, seen both English and French chairs with variations of all these characteristics oriental writing bureau cabinet .
The rectangular chair-back returned with Thomas Sheraton, who of all the 18th-century designers could probably claim to have the greatest delicacy of taste antique chamber cabinets . He owed this success to a lightness of construction, hitherto unattained, and to his use of the natural beauty of the mahogany and satinwood grain directoire sofa . This he left without embellishment except for a slight amount of inlay and some boxwood stringing along the edges antique 18th century cedar chest . Sheraton was very close to the 20th century in his chair designs and I have seen dining chairs produced by well-known designers of the present day where the influence of Thomas Sheraton has been very strong indeed andre delatte .
Regency chairs have a distinctive elegance of their own, and although they could be bought quite cheaply in sets before the 1939-45 War, today they are very much in demand nest of 20 drawers . They are rather simply shaped with slender, turned legs and attractively scrolled backs antique art deco fixture . The back rails are often inlaid with ebony or brass and the lower rail is sometimes found carved like a rope length silver forks made in london . It was during this period that the top back rail was constructed so that it protruded on either side of the uprights, this design often being associated with the so-called sabre-shaped leg small sterling silver clocks .
The Restoration spiral twist now re-appeared in the Abbotsford furniture of the early Victorian period antique kayseri silk carpet pictoral niche . These chairs were usually made of walnut or rosewood but could never be mistaken for late 17th-century pieces antique oakchamber pot chair with hinged top . In spite of their rather fussy character and beadwork upholstery they are attractive and well worth acquiring bone handled fork converted to knive . About 1860 the cabriole leg returned to favour and many sets of attractive chairs, designed for the drawing room or parlour, were produced walnut escutcheons . Country-made rush-seated chairs with turned spindle backs and club legs date from the early 19th century and are still made in some northern counties french table stretcher draw leaf .
The origin of the Windsor chair is shrouded in mystery, as is also the name antique dresser with drawers stamped 54 . The tale that George III discovered this turned-wood type of chair at a house in the Chilterns and found it so to his liking that he had it sent to Windsor for his personal use may be accepted with that degree of credulity accorded to many fables concerning antiques cabinet makers antique work bench . Some authorities date the Windsor chair from the late 17th century and others from the mid-18th edwardian wardrobes . It is more than likely that in areas such as the Chilterns, where there are extensive beech forests, turned-wood stools and chairs have been produced for a very long time, even as far back as the 16th century desk boulle style . The Windsor chair as it is known today was really a product of the 18th century and it was probably during that time that it reached that very high degree of functional design for which it has become famous william kent eagle console table . Traditionally, these chairs have legs and spindles of beech which until a short time ago were shaped on crude lathes in the beechwoods by turners known as bodgers antique draw leaf dining table . The hooped backs and arms were made of ash which could be easily steamed and bent to shape while the seats were of elm because they could be cut in one piece from the broad elm boards silverware sets real fake . Some Windsor chairs have yew-wood arms, backs and spindles but are rather more rare and consequently more expensive to acquire italian provincial furniture . Those which have a shaped central splat in the back with a small wheel-like figure incorporated in the design are usually referred to as wheel-back chairs german antique sideboards and buffets fluted .
I have already mentioned sets of Georgian dining chairs and these command a high price, even when country-made russian porcelain antique . Due to a 19th-century custom of dividing sets of chairs among the beneficiaries of the will on the death of the owner, it is quite common to find single specimens or pairs of chairs of almost any period in sale-rooms and antique shops 18th century victorian toilet in dining room . Accordingly, it is not a difficult matter to collect what is sometimes referred to by the antique trade as a harlequin set of different chairs, either of the same or various periods empire curved bureau . In my dining room I have a very pleasant example of the Hepplewhite period, a pair and one single chair of Sheraton design, and two Regency carvers song dynasty bluish green glazed earthenware . None of these cost more than £5 and some much less countries that art deco was very popular .
High-backed oak settles look cosy and attractive before an open fire in a country inn but they are not really very comfortable and seldom fit in with a modest collection of antique furniture 18th century king george red velvet arm chair value . They often have a chest beneath with a hinged lid in the seat and sometimes shaped wings at the sides to combat the draughts pilaster bookstand price . The low-back settle or panelled settee with cabriole legs and a long overlaid cushioned seat are a better proposition and can be bought for under E10 antique cherry drop leaf table claw foot .
Of much rarer vintage is the double seated settee or love seat, designed according to tradition for the use of courting couples “desk”+”antique” . I believe that this is just another fable as these seats are not infrequently found in pairs, the second one provided, perhaps, for the chaperone simple design dressing table . More likely these love seats were merely part of the seating accommodation provided in a large salon or ballroom for the assem-blies and routs so much beloved by the Georgians ornate antique silver roast serving platter .
Longer settees with cabriole or square Chippendale type legs, and with padded arms and upholstered seats and backs, made an appearance in the second half of the 18th century francaise antique . Apparently they did not develop in popularity as there are comparatively few about and their places were taken by the sofa and couch swansea duck egg .

WALNUT PERIOD
HAVING seen in the last chapter how new methods
of construction enabled a far more refined kind of
furniture to be made, we may now turn to the actual pieces that were produced from the Restoration up to the end of Queen Anne’s reign in 1714. Perhaps the first thing that strikes one is the multiplicity of types compared with what men had known in the first half of the seventeenth century.
It seems that people had come to have a new outlook on life and were demanding an altogether more luxurious way of living. Perhaps a fair comparison is the way that the average man’s point of view has changed since 1913. Not that the results have been the same, but the Great War and all that it brought with it set men’s minds working along fresh channels. In 166o it was the Restoration instead of war that prompted the change, and in comparison the changes were even greater.
For one thing there was the reaction from a stern, rigorous form of government to one of licence and laxity. For another there was the strong foreign influence which came as the natural result of the accession of a king who had spent most of his life abroad, soon followed by the reign of a king who actually was a foreigner. The remarkable thing is that the resultant style was not more extravagant than it really was. As it turned out, the walnut period was notable rather for its restraint and dignity, especially in its later stages. The probable reason was that William of Orange did a good deal to check the depraved condition into which the court of Charles II had fallen.
Amongst the pieces that made their first appearance during the walnut period were china cabinets fitted with glass doors, bookcases (also often glazed), writing cabinets, chests of drawers, mirrors, tall clock cases, card tables, and various cabinets elaborately fitted up with small drawers and cup-boards. To these may be added chairs with fully upholstered seats and backs. These introductions in themselves reflect the altered conditions, and show that people were no longer content with things which had to answer several purposes. Consider how in earlier days the chest had served as a seat, table, and travelling chest ; or the dining table for every possible purpose for which a table could be needed. By the end of the seventeenth century people indulged in the luxury of collecting china, hence the cabinets for the purpose ; they spent their leisure in playing cards and so needed card tables books were more plentiful, making bookcases essential and they required not one chair and a few stools in a room, but a full set so that everyone could be comfortable.
CHESTS OF DRAWERS
We saw in Chapter III how the chest developed into the chest of drawers, and it is interesting to make a comparison between the Jacobean type in Fig. 53, p. 66, and the Charles II example in Fig. 70. In date there are not many years’ difference between them, but whereas the former is entirely in oak and is made in the old traditional way, the other is of veneered walnut with a flat stretcher and legs of a kind that are not only entirely new in form, but involve a fresh form of construction. From the constructional point of view it is certainly not an advancement upon traditional methods in which the stretcher rails would be strongly tenoned into the legs. As it is the shaped legs have a hole bored at each end, the top one holding a dowel which passes into the bottom of the chest, and the other taking the projecting dowel of the foot, the stretcher fitting between. It is worth taking particular note of this flat stretcher with the foot beneath because it became very popular in the late years of the seventeenth century.
A glance at the chest itself shows that in construction and form it bears out the changes dealt with more fully in the last chapter. The drawer fronts are flat, and around the edges is a herring-bone banding, a typical ” walnut ” feature. One special note of interest is that along the drawer rails and front edges of the ends is a flat half-round moulding with the grain running crosswise. Charles II and William and Mary work often had this feature. Later it declined, its place being taken by a cocked bead fixed around the edges of the drawer fronts. The latter was really a more practical idea because the bead helped to protect the edges of the veneer, preventing the latter from being chipped away.
Cross-grained Mouldings.—Mention of the cross-grained bead brings us to another feature which was used almost exclusively in walnut work, the cross-grained moulding. It will be appreciated that to make a solid cross-grained moulding would not be practical. It would have no strength, it would be liable to twist, and it would certainly shrink. The plan was therefore adopted of applying a thin strip of cross-grained wood to a solid groundwork, the grain of which ran lengthwise. The groundwork provided the strength and the thinness of the layer had sufficient
give ” to overcome the shrinkage difficulty.
If the moulding were extra big the work would be allowed to stand until full shrinkage had taken place, when the inevitable splits would be filled in. All but the smallest mouldings were made in this way, and even these in the best work were cross-grained. It is a point to look for in an old piece. Fig. 71 shows how a cornice moulding was built up, and the plate on p. 125 gives a number of sections, in some of which the facing layer of walnut is also shown.
A rather later chest, dating from about 1690, is given in Fig. 72, and it will be noticed that, although it embodies many similar features to the chest in Fig. 70, it is of altogether better proportions and approaches a period when walnut furniture was at its best. The drawer fronts are veneered and have the herring-bone banding around the edges, and there is the half-round moulding on the drawer rails and cabinet ends. The frieze of flat rounded section veneered with cross-grained walnut should be noted because a great deal of walnut furniture had this detail. It was copied from the cornice and frieze built in many houses of the period. Turned legs with the inverted cup shape are peculiar to William and Mary pieces, and, although other shapes were used, they are usually a good indication of the period. Note that the flat stretcher similar to that in Fig. 70 is still used.
One other point to note is that the veneering has the effect of hiding the construction almost entirely. Take the stand, for instance. There is no indication of where the rails are joined to the legs. This is in contrast with the older oak furniture in which all the joints were apparent, and in which the grain always ran in the direction which strength demanded. The appreciation of points such as this enables one to understand the root of the changes that were taking place.
Tallboys.—Two other chests are given in Fig. 73. That to the left is late seventeenth century, but the other is of Queen Anne’s reign and shows the final development of the walnut period. It is a close approach to that delightful looking, but rather impractical, article the tallboy chest. Presumably men felt that the drawer was so extremely useful (and it undoubtedly was) that the more they could fit into a piece the more useful it became. It was like many another good idea, spoilt by being taken to extremes. Any reader who has possessed one of these tallboys will appreciate the nuisance of having to mount up on a chair to reach the contents of the top drawers.
In this chest we also have a feature which we shall frequently run across in Queen Anne work, the apron piece. This is the shaped rail joining the legs beneath the lower drawers. It appears in the chest in Fig. 72, and in the left-hand example in Fig. 73. It was the natural result of the introduction of veneering, or, to be more accurate, it was a detail which was made possible only by veneering. If, for instance, the veneer were stripped off, the joints of the various rails would be exposed with the applied apron piece showing beneath. Such an arrangement would be unsightly, but when covered with veneer makes an attractive and characteristic feature. Sometimes the shaped edges were covered with a cocked bead. The chest in Fig. 72 has this detail.
One other outstanding feature of this chest, Fig. 73, is that in it we have the first introduction to the cabriole leg which enjoyed so vast a popularity in the eighteenth century. We shall deal with this more fully presently when we come to speak about chairs, but it is worth while noting its use in pieces of this kind.
Drawer Construction.—In all these chests, the drawer sides, backs, and bottoms were invariably of oak. Walnut was still a comparatively rare wood—it was probably not planted in this country until Elizabeth’s reign—and on that account was costly. Furthermore oak was the better calculated to withstand the wear inevitable on the sliding surfaces. Oak was also used for the groundwork of the drawer fronts, though there was a tendency to use pine for the purpose, because experience showed that oak did not grip the glue as well as pine. Also, the figure in the oak was liable to show through the veneer eventually because of the shrinkage of the softer parts of the timber. However, it is no criterion, for both were used for the purpose.
When a walnut moulding was required at the edges (except in the case of the cocked bead) a slip of cross-grained walnut was first let in all round and the veneer laid over this. This enabled the moulding to be worked in the walnut at the edges. It was unnecessary in a cocked bead, for this could be applied afterwards in a rebate worked for the purpose.

FIG. 70. WALNUT CHEST OF DRAWERS ON STAND.
About 1670.
The upright grain of the veneered drawer fronts, the herringbone banding,
the cross-grained bead on the rails, and the flat stretchers are typical
of the period.

FIG. 71. HOW CROSS-GRAINED WALNUT
MOULDINGS WERE BUILT UP.
Strips of cross-grained walnut are glued to a
groundwork of pine or oak.

FIG. 72. WILLIAM AND MARY CHEST OF DRAWERS ON
STAND.
The inverted cup turned legs and flat stretcher were extremely popular at the period. The rounded frieze continued into the Queen Anne period.

Early 19th Century Desks: CANADIAN DROP-FRONT DESK, GERMAN PEDESTAL DESK, FRENCH CLERK’S DESK, BIEDERMEIER CYLINDER BUREAU, FRENCH DIRECTOIRE CYLINDER DESK, AMERICAN FEDERAL DESK

DESKS GENERALLY TENDED TO BE Of two
forms: flat- or slant-topped. Neither of these types were new in the early 19th century. Of the former, which were generally intended for a library, several outstanding examples survive. The Jacob brothers of France provided Napoleon with a flat-topped desk for his study at the Tuileries, which is now at Malmaison. A type of mechanical bureau plat, the box-like top slides back to expose the working surface. It is supported on side pylons formed from paired lion monopodia painted and gilded to simulate bronze.
A late Empire “Ferdinandino” style desk in mahogany survives in the Spanish Royal Palace in Madrid. With a leather top, which is typical of flat-topped desks of the period, it is supported on gilt swans linked by a platform stretcher. Chippendale the Younger’s desk for Sir Richard Colt Hoare at Stourhead demonstrates a British variation of this type. Unusually,
the top of the desk is rounded and has Egyptian mask pilasters running around all sides.
Slant-fronted bureaux were still produced, particularly in provincial centres in Britain and the United States. The cylinder bureau, which had a rounded fall that pushed upwards into the carcase of the piece remained popular on the Continent, particularly in the north. The cliatol in Denmark was a variation with a cabinet above it. Similar bureau-cabinets were produced in Britain, as was a much smaller desk called the Davenport. In some instances the slant provided the actual writing surface rather than covering it, while others were made with a piano-top style. They are thought to be named after a version made by Gillows for a Captain Davenport. Other small desks, , were in vogue on both sides of the channel. The secretaire a abottant continued to be popular, especially in France.

The ebony inlay takes the form of leaf sprays and geometric motifs.
Each side panel hasa lion’s head brass ring pull.
The frieze has three drawers.
Arched bracket lion’s paw foot.
ENGLISH REGENCY DESK
This shaped rectangular pedestal desk has a black gilt-tooled leather writing surface and is decorated around the edges with ebony inlay depicting sprays of leaves and geometric motifs. The frieze has three drawers to the front above
a kneehole, flanked on either side by a door enclosing three drawers. The reverse of the desk has three conforming frieze drawers and cupboard doors enclosing a shelf. The case stands on eight arched bracket lion’s-paw feet.
c.1820.

AMERICAN SLANT-FRONT DESK
This Federal maple and tiger-maple slant-front desk from New England has a moulded slope front with a fitted interior and four long graduated drawers. There is a moulded base and the case sits on French feet. The secondary wood is white pine. c.1800.

FRENCH DIRECTOIRE CYLINDER DESK
This roll-top desk has a white marbled galleried top above three frieze drawers. The panelled fall opens to reveal a fitted interior with small drawers and a leather-inset brushing slide. The desk is raised on turned, tapered legs, ending in toupie feet. c.1800.
ITALIAN LIFT-TOP DESK
This desk has a lift-top with iron strap hinges and lock that folds back to reveal a fitted interior. The desk is supported on canted, scrolled ends with carved supports. Early 19th century.

AMERICAN FEDERAL DESK
The slant front of this Federal cherry-wood clerk’s desk encloses a fitted interior of four drawers and valanced compartments on both sides of a central, shell-carved, prospect door flanked by two document drawers. Below is a single long drawer. Early 19th century.
SWEDISH PAINTED DESK
This is a late Gustavian painted desk, with a wide overhanging rectangular writing surface above three reeded frieze drawers. Each pedestal has three graduated short drawers, again reeded, and is raised on a narrow
plinth with block feet. 1800-20.
BIEDERMEIER CYLINDER BUREAU
FRENCH CLERK’S DESK
This German walnut-veneered cylinder desk has a frieze drawer above the roll-top and two long drawers below. The front opens to reveal a fitted interior with six small drawers and compartments. The case is supported on square-section tapering legs. c.1820.
This mahogany desk has a three-quarter gilt-metal gallery and a leather inset slope. There is a gilt-metal mounted frieze with a drawer above a grille door and sides with folio divisions, flanked by turned columns. The desk is raised above a platform with square supports on bun feet.

GERMAN PEDESTAL DESK
This pedestal writing table is covered with cherry wood veneer. The rectangular top has a higher, moulded edge to the back and sits above one long and two short frieze drawers with locks. Either side of the kneehole, the
deep, rectilinear pedestals have unusual tapered doors with applied moulding above, which give the piece an architectural feel. The interiors of the pedestals are fitted with shelving. The whole piece is supported on a plinth base. c.1825.
CANADIAN DROP-FRONT DESK
This rare Quebec pine desk has a fall front, which opens to reveal a fitted interior. On either side of a central cubbyhole are three wide, graduated drawers, and above it is a series of pigeonholes. The case has three long
drawers and is supported on a moulded plinth. The exterior of the desk has been stripped, but still bears traces of its original paint finish. c.1820

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Early 19th Century Chairs

ALL “THE CHARACTERISTICS oF Regency
and Empire furniture, from the Neoclassical motifs – often on pierced backs – to the choice of timbers, are displayed on early 19th-century chairs.
One of the most typical types of chair of the period is the Trafalgar chair, which was made in Britain and used for dining. The chair had two horizontal splats – one usually of bar form, the lower one sometimes a rope-twist, set above a caned or drop-in seat. Caning, with all its exotic overtones, was revived again during this period, particularly on British or Cape furniture. During the first two decades of the century the front and back legs were usually of sabre form, but turned or ring-turned legs, which are Structurally stronger, were used later.
These chairs, and many that they inspired, were often made of solid mahogany or rosewood, with veneered
panels on the bar back. Beech was used, and was often painted; light-coloured woods were favoured outside Britain. Chairs from this period rarely had stretchers.
One type of armchair, inspired by Georges Jacob, had a rectangular, scrolled, upholstered back and open arms with straight supports, often carved with sphinx heads or female masks. It also had turned and tapered front legs. These more comfortable fauteuils might be used in the drawing room, whilst Regency bcrgeres, which had caned backs, sides, and seats, were probably made for the library. These chairs had squab cushions, often covered in leather and buttoned. Other pieces might be upholstered in silk or velvet. Needlework was rare, although a suite of furniture from the Winter Palace in Russia, was covered in tapestry, in a mixture of wool and silk.

ENGLISH TRAFALGAR CHAIR
FRENCH DIRECTOIRE CHAIR
This Regency mahogany dining chair has a plain top rail and a rope-twist back rail. The needlework-covered drop-in seat is supported on a plain seat rail and sabre legs. One of a set of four. Early 19th century.
This is one of a pair of Directoire side chairs, each with a rectilinear back rail and splat inlaid with brass musical instruments. The upholstered stuffover seat is supported on sabre legs. c.1800.
SWEDISH BIEDERMEIER ARMCHAIR
CHINA TRADE ARMCHAIR
This birch open armchair has a stepped yoke backrest with a decorative oval inlay and scrolled armrests. The drop-in seat has a plain seat rail and is raised on sabre legs. c.1825.
This Asian hardwood armchair, has a Greek-key carved top rail and a shaped, carved back rail. The cane seat rests on a reeded seat rail above slender reeded legs joined by an T-stretcher. Early 19th century.
All the surfaces of the chair are carved and decorated in shades ofgreen, blue, and red, highlighted with gold.
INDIAN THRONE CHAIR
This polychrome-painted, ivory-veneered chair is in an exaggerated Regency style. It has an arched, slightly panelled back with a reeded top rail, carved uprights, sabre legs, and paw feet. c.1830.

AMERICAN FEDERAL SIDE CHAIR
This walnut and fruitwood side chair has a gently reclining back with a rectangular top and back rail. The padded seat is supported on a plain seat rail above stylized cabriole legs. Early 1901 century.
These Biedermeier mahogany-veneered dining chairs were made in Berlin. Each chair has a bar top rail, a solid, shaped back rail with a central oval, and elegant, slightly sweeping uprights. The shaped caned seats are set
within a curved frame with a rounded seat rail and are supported on tour outswept sabre legs. 1820-30.
This mahogany side chair has a moulded and rope-carved shield back around an urn, Princeof-Wales feathers, draped swags, and leaves. The serpentine seat rests on reeded, tapering legs. Early 19th century.
FRENCH RESTAURATION CHAIR
GERMAN BIEDERMEIER CHAIRS

AMERICAN GONDOLA CHAIR
ITALIAN GONDOLA CHAIRS
GEORGE III SHIELD-BACK CHAIR
This is one of a pair of Neoclassical figured mahogany gondola chairs, each with a curved back and vasiform, solid splat, a padded slip seat, and downswept stiles continuing into shaped sabre front legs. c.1830.
These six dining chairs are made of walnut and are designed in the Neoclassical style. Each chair has an unusual fluted, rectangular backrest positioned above a pierced, stylized leaf border. The cane seats have an applied
roundel at each side and are supported on plain seat rails. The chairs are raised on sabre legs. The elegant sweeping uprights give the chairs their characteristic shape, which is reminiscent of the style of the gondola boats found in Venice.
Early 191h century.
This mahogany armchair has a shield-shaped, curved back, outlined with guilloche moulding, with five reeded splats, curved downswept arms, a bowed seat rail, and reeded, tapering front legs.
RUSSIAN OPEN ARMCHAIR
AMERICAN DINING CHAIRS
SWEDISH GUSTAVIAN SIDE CHAIR
This birch open armchair has a stepped yoke backrest, with carved fan detail, and slender, scrolled armrests. The upholstered seat is raised on sabre legs. It is one of a pair. Early 19th century.
These eight Neoclassical-style dining chairs are made of mahogany. Each chair has a flat curved top rail carved with a foliate pattern and a slender horizontal splat, also decorated with leaf carving, plus a rosette. The seats
are upholstered with black Naugahyde and are showing considerable signs of wear. The seats are supported on plain seat rails and raised on sabre legs. The armchairs have gently curving supports. The set comprises two armchairs and six side chairs, and is attributed to Anthony Quervelle. c.1820.
This white-painted side chair has a shield-shaped back with a solid, carved splat. The padded seat is supported on a moulded seat rail and is raised on stop-fluted legs joined by an H-stretcher. Early 19th century.

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FRANCE: RESTAURATION
THE RESTAURATION STYLE, as its name
suggests, refers to the restoration of the Bourbon monarchy from the expulsion and final exile of Napoleon in 1815, until its fall in 1830.
Louis XVIII became King of France in 1815 and was followed by Charles X in 1824, who finally abdicated in 1830 in favour of the exiled Due d’Orleans, Louis Philippe. It was a period of considerable political unrest, culminating in the revolutions of 1830 and 1848, which forced Louis Philippe to flee to England.
The market for furniture also changed, with growing interest from the middle classes and the increasing
industrialization of furniture-making due to improved tools and the use of steam. Fortuitously, this coincided with the need to furnish apartments, which, for the first time, the middle classes could rent.
CHANGING STYLES
Empire decoration remained the leading style of furniture and many of the cabinet-makers who had worked in the Empire style, such as JacobDesmalter, Felix Remond, and P.A. Bellanger, continued to produce furniture with a great deal of success.
However, Napoleonic motifs and
mounts gradually disappeared, and the
Empire style was slowly watered down as severity gave way to comfort. Strict linearity eventually relaxed into the occasional curve in a nostalgia for Rococo style. Overall, forms became heavier and more solid, replacing the Empire love of rectilinear elegance. As elsewhere in Europe, furniture became bulkier. Inlays became more common and mounts gradually became smaller, or disappeared altogether.
STYLE DIFFERENCES Restauration-style furniture can sometimes be difficult to distinguish from the
simpler, more domestic Empire pieces (see pp.200-01). The surfaces of Restauration pieces tend to be even simpler and less decorated than those found on French Empire furniture, which was typically designed to create an opulent effect.
SECRETAIRE A ABATTANT
This flame-veneered mahogany writing cabinet is raised on claw feet and has a moulded cornice above a pair of Gothic-carved, glazed doors, enclosing shelves, above drawers. A frieze drawer fitted for writing is set above cupboard doors flanked by scrolls. c.1820.
DRESSING TABLE
This is a mahogany dressing table with a swing-frame mirror set above a platform with two small drawers above another drawer. The dressing table stands on C-scroll supports and has a shaped platform base. c.1825.
FAUTEUILS AUX DAUPHINS
This set of six mahogany armchairs, made by Pierre-Antoine Bellanger, has straight top rails terminating in carved scrolls. The curved arms are carved with dolphin heads and each chair has a padded, upholstered seat with a plain seat rail and is supported on sabre legs. c.1815.
CHARLES X DRESSING TABLE
This dressing table is made of burr elm inlaid with amaranth depicting stylized foliage. The top section has an oval mirror with carved supports in the shape of swans. The table top is made of white marble. The lower section consists of a frieze drawer above two carved consoles. The piece terminates in a shaped platform base and flattened bun feet. 1825
BOIS CLAIRS
Restauration furniture was usually made of oak, but it was increasingly veneered in lighter woods, the so-called bois clairs. This change in tone began in 1806, when the British blockaded the importation of mahogany to France from its colonies. As a result, local woods became more popular, including walnut, sycamore, ash, elm, yew, plane, beech, and, perhaps most characteristically of all, decorative bird’s-eye maple.
Mahogany, being expensive, was reserved for the most lavish interiors, so its use was often an indicator of the high value of a piece of furniture.
Traditionally, the Duchesse de Berry the daughter-in-law of Charles X, is credited with the introduction of bois clairs, but this appears to be an unfounded myth. Mahogany, however, continued to be extensively employed both as a veneer – where the decorative effect of its figure was much exploited – and in the solid.
With the decline in use of mounts, various timbers, particularly ebony, and metals such as brass or pewter, were inlaid instead. However, their treatment was always restrained. Some furniture even included plaques of painted porcelain.
GOTHIC STYLE
Towards the end of the Restauration period, the Romantic-revival styles gradually became evident in French furniture design.
These were probably first hinted at in Pierre de La Mesangere’s Collection de meubles et objets de goat, published between 1802 and 1835 in the Journal des Dames et des Modes. Here, La Mesangere adapted the severe, architectural style of Perrier and Fontaine to create a simple, domestic style for the middle classes. He also began introducing the motifs that
would dominate the next epoch –Gothic motifs, otherwise known as the Troubadour style.
Unlike the Chinese style, which was completely forgotten in early 19th-century France but played an important role in Britain at the time, the Gothic style did create a small impact. For example, in 1804, the cabinetmaker, Mansion the Younger, suggested a Gothic-style piece for Napoleon.
However, it was not until the late 1820s and 30s, that the pointed arches so typical of the Gothic style started appearing on Empire-style furniture.
CIRCULAR CENTRE TABLE
This table is made from rosewood inlaid with fruitwood and marquetry. The circular top, and the four frieze drawers below, are raised on a columnar support, which has four splayed legs that terminate in paw feet on brass casters. c.1830.
CHARLES X OCCASIONAL TABLE
The top of this oval rosewood table is inlaid with a panel of Gothic tracery and is bordered with a boxwood rolled moulding. The frieze has a single writing-slide drawer. The table stands on six turned legs joined by a double-baluster stretcher. c.1830.
This mahogany meridienne has one end higher than the other, and an elegant, curved, padded back. The frame of the sofa has scrolling sides, a plain frieze, and stands on volute feet. 1820
This table has a black-and-grey-veined Saint Anne marble top set above a plain frieze. The massive columnar support is baluster shaped although it has been facetted. The three scrolled feet are similarly angular and are square in section.
MERIDIENNE
MARBLE-TOPPED TABLE
The mahogany frieze is unadorned Will) the mounts typical of the French Empire style.
The scrolled feet show a move away from the strict angular design of the previous epoch.