Posts Tagged ‘barker brothers furniture’

WINE GLASS IN THE CAMEO TECHNIQUE, PORTLAND VASE IN DARK AND OPAQUE GLASS, CAMEO-CUT, CAMEO GLASS VASE, RUBY BODY, CAMEO GLASS VASE IMITATING CARVED IVORY WITH APPLIED GLASS WINDOW’S

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

TRANSLUCENT WINE GLASS IN THE
CAMEO TECHNIQUE
Rinnan Empire, possibly isi century A.I).
Hi. 62 mm (2-44 in.)
PORTLAND VASE IN DARK AND OPAQUE
GLASS, CAMEO-CUT
Roman Empire, late isl century B.C. or early isi
century A.I). III. 245 248 mm (0-65 075 in.)
Cameo Class: This technique is a mixture
of both wheel-cutting and engraving, and
in the later period, of acid etching. This
art, certainly practised by the Romans, in
their glass-houses at Alexandria, was
brought to such perfection between the 1st
century B.C. and 1st century A.D. that
glasses like the Portland Vase could be
produced. It is possibly the most dramatic
form of abraded decoration on a vessel. At
least two layers of differently coloured
glasses were needed for vessels of cameo
glass. These would be carved through to
the under-layers by the lapidary’s wheel.
Roman cameo glass (also called verre
double) was usually made up of translucent
white glass cased on to a darker ground of
blue glass, which was then carved with
ornamental designs or mythological or
genre scenes. The scene depicted on the
blue and white glass cup illustrated is a
mythological scene devoted to the worship
of Priapus, a fertility god.
Roman cameos form only a small group of
Roman glass products, bui they rank high
amongst the achievements of the great
glass-makers of this period. Possibly the
most famous of all Roman cameos is the
Portland vase, said to have been found in
1582 in a sarcophagus on the Appian Way
near Rome. It was bought by the British
Museum from the Duke of Portland in
1045. To make it, two gathers of glass, one
cobalt blue, one opaque white, were fused
together and probably blown and shaped
as one. This would have to have been very
carefully annealed (cooled under con-
trolled conditions), for if the rate of
cooling on cither face was even slightly
different, the glass would shatter. When
annealed, the glass would have been
marked with the desired decoration, and
the larger unwanted areas of white glass
ground away with heavy wheel abrasion to
the blue underneath.
OVAIL CAMEO (WITH A DEMONSTRATION OF HOW IT
WAS MADE)
Roman Empire, 41b century A.D.
Ht. 41 mm (163 in.)
The delicate work necessary to finish off
the figures on a cameo would probably
have been accomplished with fine wheel
abrasion, since even at this early period it
was possible for wheels the size of a
pinhead to be made for fine work. The
manner of carving was very much akin to
the carving of a layered gem-stone such as
onyx or banded agate. The changes in
thickness of the opaque or translucent
white glass layer brought about by the
differences in the depth of the carving
produced subtle tonal variations. The
illustration shows the various stages a
Roman glass-maker would go through to
produce the cameo of a youth’s head and
shoulders. First the two layers of glass
were fused together, then the oval shape
cut out; the main areas of white which
were not needed were then removed, then
the finer details were filled in.
FI.ASK WITH CAMEO CUT DECORATION
Persia, oth-iolh century A.D. Ht. 150 mm (59 in.)
Between the period of Roman cameo-
working to the great revival of the tech-
nique in the 19th century, it is often
assumed that no such work was carried
out. This is not quite the case, for cameo
glass was certainly made in Egypt and
Persia in the 9th and 10th cerituries A.D.
Complete pieces have been found from
those countries, and fragments of cameo
glass of the same period have been found
in Samarra. The overlay glass is either
coloured green or blue. The flask illus-
trated is an outstanding example of Persian
camco-cut work. It is in colourless glass,
cased with green depicting the form of a
hare, the articulation of the joints being
cut away to the colourless glass beneath.
This cameo glass formed part of the school
of relief-cutting which flourished in Persia
and probably Mesopotamia in the 9th and
10th centuries. Cameo glass was also
produced in China well before the 19th
century.
John Northwood, born in Stourbridge,
England, in 1837, was the first, and lead-
ing, exponent in England of the art of
cameo glass. After completing his famous
relief-carved ‘Elgin’ vase, he was commis-
sioned by Phillip Pargeter of the Red
House Glassworks near Stourbridge to
produce a copy of the Portland vase. He
did this successfully, and followed it up by
producing his ‘Milton’ vase and later his
famous ‘Pegasus’ or ‘Dennis’ vase, com-
missioned by Thomas Wilkes Webb,
which is illustrated here. Members of the
Northwood School included his own son
John II, who produced works in the
cameo technique. During the early years
of English cameo glass, (.1870 to 1880,
pieces were carved mainly with hand
tools, and each was normally the work of
an individual artist. To supply public
demand a quicker method for production
had to be found and thus the engraving
wheel came to be used, and the production
became a co-operation between designer,
etcher and engraver.
This new ‘commercial’ production of
English cameo glass lasted roughly from
1880 to 1890, and on the whole the results
tended to be good. Stevens 8c Williams of
Brierley Hill and Thomas Webb & Sons
of Stourbridge produced the greatest
amount of cameo work in this period.
Besides the John Northwood school there
existed a second school of cameo glass
artists at the firm of Hodgetts, Richardson
& Company of Wordsley. The two most
important artists there were Alphonse
Lechevrel and Joseph Locke. Alphonse
Lechevrel, a Frenchman, was taken on by
the firm to instruct a small group of men
in the art of carving glass cameos and was
one of the first to follow John Northwood
in this difficult technique. Lechevrel had
already made his name as a medalist, and
had a good grounding in figure, floral and
geometric designs. A few of his pieces of
cameo glass survive, including the vase
illustrated.
CAMEO GLASS VASE, RUBY BODY
Ctrved by Joseph Locke, New England Glass
Company, U.S.A., c. iMg
Alphonse Lechevrel’s most promising
pupil was Joseph Locke, a perfectionist in
whatever medium he attempted, an accom-
plished glass technologist, a finished pain-
ter, engraver, etcher, sculptor and inven-
tor. When eventually he came to be
employed by Hodgetts, Richardson &
Company he produced his masterpiece,
the second copy of the Portland vase in
cameo glass, exhibited at the Paris Exhibi-
tion in 1878, where it won the Gold Medal
Award. Locke left Hodgetts, Richardson
& Company to work for Phillip Pargcter of
the Red House Glassworks, who had the
Northwood version of the Portland vase.
He went on to Webb & Corbetts, and then
left lor America in 1882 where he joined
the New England Glass Company of
Cambridge, Mass. Hecontinued his cameo
work in America, the vase illustrated being
an example of his work there. Occasionally
he used enamelling to embellish his cameo
work still further.
Carved by George Woodall, late 19th century
Ht. 220 mm (9 in.)
The brothers George and Thomas Woodall
had the good fortune to receive their early
training in cameo work from John North-
wood. Both were engaged by the firm of
Thomas Webb & Sons of Stourbridge to
work exclusively on cameo glass. The
Woodall school is noted for being by far
the most productive of the three schools
of English cameo glass. George had a
natural talent for figure composition, as
did his brother, though Tom seemed to
prefer decorative and floral patterns and
often executed the borders on their joint
works, usually signed ‘T & G Woodall’.
The early works of George Woodall were
mainly hand-carved, and his later pieces
mostly worked on the engraver’s wheel.
Much cameo glass was produced under
his direction by a large group of workers.
Tom and George Woodall and James
O’Fallon were the designers, though some
of their workers were quite capable of
producing and executing their own de-
signs.
‘lace-de-boheme’ cameo glass vase
Bohemia, (.1885. lit. 229 mm (9in.)
Most of the English cameo glass produced
between 1880 and 1890 was destined for
the American market. After 1890 demand
for this tine work dropped, because of the
influx of cheap imitation cameo work on
to the market. These cheaper pieces were
made by giving the glass a thin opal casing
and then applying the pattern to this
casing with acid-resisting ink; the article
was then plunged into a hydrofluoric acid
bath, which dissolved away all parts of the
casing not protected by the acid-resisting
ink. Thus an article was easily made with
a flat opal glass design in very shallow-
relief on a coloured background. Still
cheaper imitations came with ‘Florentine
Art Cameo’, and i.ace-dc-Boheme Cam-
eo’ made in Bohemia, which was simply
heavy white enamelling, often copying
English cameo designs, on a coloured or
satin glass body. ‘Mary Gregory’ glass,
described in the enamelling section, was
also a cheaper imitation of cameo work.
CAMEO GLASS VASE IMITATING  CARVED IVORY
WITH APPLIED GLASS WINDOW’S
Designed by Kretschman and decorated in gold and
enamel by Jules Barbc, Thomas Webb & Sons,
Kngland, 1-.1887
Thomas Webb & Sons of Stourbridge,
England, were the sole producers of a
novelty-type cameo glass which was made
in imitation of old carved ivory. Thomas
Wilkes Webb patented the process in 1887
and in the U.S.A. in 1889. An article made
of ivory coloured or opaque white glass
was etched with a shallow relief design,
which was deepened with an engraving
wheel. The design produced was wiped
clean and then rubbed with a brown or
other coloured stain; the stain made a dark
tint in the recesses of the design, and was
also apparent on the high points of the
design. The result made a piece of’cameo’
glass which looked like old carved ivory.
‘Tom and George Woodall used Oriental
and East Indian objets d’art as models for
this technique, and other members of the
Woodall team, Jules Barbc, Jacob Facer
and Nash, produced designs for this ware.
Both Stevens & Williams of Brierley Hill
and Thomas Webb & Sons of Stourbridge,
England, produced a glassware which was
known as ‘Dolce Relievo’ or ’soft relief. A
gather of clear coloured glass was picked
up on a first gathering of opaque white or
ivory-coloured glass, and the article was
fashioned in the normal way. When the
object had cooled, a design was painted on
the outer coloured glass, which was care-
fully etched away. This left various shad-
ings in shallow relief on the white or ivory
background. Any merit that the piece may
have depends entirely on the original
beauty of the design and on the skill of the
etcher. The vase illustrated, made at
Stevens & Williams, is one of the better
examples of the technique. Thomas Webb
& Sons were also responsible for cameo
glass pieces made to imitate 18th-century
Apart from beads, decorative plaques and
models of animals, very little glass was
made in China before the 5th century A.D.
As already mentioned, it is thought that
the secrets of glass-making were brought
to (ihina from the West in A.D. 435. Little
is known of Chinese glass-making during
the Sung and Ming periods. During the
Ch’ing period a glass workshop was
established in Peking in 1680 under the
patronage of the Kmperor K’afig Hsi, and
cameo-cut glass was featured amongst its
products. The most prolific period of
Chinese glass-making, however, comes in
the reign of the Kmperor Ch’ien Lung
(1735-95). The bottle illustrated is thought
to have come from this period, being in
opaque white glass with an overlay of red
glass depicting mounted warriors, build-
ings and nobles in a stage-like setting. The
effect of layered onyx or other semi-
precious stone was thus simulated, for the
Chinese seemed to be only interested in
glass in so far as it imitated more precious
materials.
CAMEO GLASS VASE IN PINK AND WHITE OPAQUE GLASS
Ml. Washington Glass Company, U.S.A., late
iQth century. Ht. 121 mm (475 in.)
Production of cameo glass in the U.S.A. in
this period was limited, not for lack of
expertise, but because of the high cost of
production. A great deal of English cameo
glass was of course being imported to the
States. However, some was made there,
the example shown being a pink and white
cameo of the Mt. Washington Glass
Company, New Bedford, Mass. The firm
also made blue and white cameo glass,
using the same relatively few patterns for
both. The outline of the ‘cameo’ decora-
tion is finely etched, but there any
resemblance to English cameo work ends,
for the decoration is produced solely by
the use of acid, and the effect of the design
is rather flat. On the other hand, some very
notable cameo work was produced in
America by the firm of Louis Comfort
Tiffany with Arthur J. Nash. Frederick
Carder certainly made traditional cameo
glass objects in England, and later, when
he worked in the U.S.A. he invented
Steuben ‘Acid Cutback’ glass, which is
allied to the cameo technique.
CAMEO GLASS VASE
Venice, Italy, last quarter of 10th century
Cameo glass was produced in Venice in the
late 19th century. It is not known who
produced these pieces, but their chief
characteristic is that they are made of
Venetian soda-lime metal, as opposed to
the heavy lead glass of English cameo
glass. This lighter glass, when used for
both the inner and outer layers of the
objects, gives the carving of the cameo a
more delicate but less distinct appearance.
Small details such as the carving of faces
were not easily achieved with the more
brittle metal. These pieces, all apparently
carved by the same artist, are in deep blue
glass cased by white opal glass. They
attempt to copy some of the ancient
Roman cameos, including the Portland
vase. Small alabastrons, vases, large and
small cups and saucers are copied from
ancient examples. The owners of the
cameos, Pauly & Cie of Venice, produced
a few pieces of cameo engraving on leftover
blanks from the late 19th century.
VASE IN CAMEO GLASS
Kmilc Galle, Nancy, France, end of ihe iqth century
I It 44S mm (17-63 in.)
French cameo glass has en entirely different
artistic feel from that of the meticulously
engraved English type. The French glass-
makers used acid etching to engrave their
designs on to blanks of cased coloured
glass, in a style originally intended to copy
oriental models. Emile Galle (1846 1004)
was the most prominent figure in the
production of French cameo glass. He
learned his trade at Mcisenthal, and then
had a more formal art education in Weimar,
followed by studies in the major museums
of London and Paris. He established his
own workshop for glass decoration in 1867.
With his father he began the regular
production of art glass in Nancy in 1874,
and continued until his death in 1004.
Strongly influenced by the art of Japan, he
took as his favourite subjects flowers,
insects and landscape designs, in contrast
to the figure subjects favoured by English
artists for cameo glass.
CASED-GLASS CAMEO VASE IN AUBERGINE,
WHITE
By Emile Galle, Nancy, France, iSgo 1000
The smaller details on Gallc’s cameo glass
were finished off on the engraving wheel.
The majority of his cased glass vases, with
a decoration of flowers and leaves, date
from after 1890. So-called ’standard Galle’
vases with conventional Art Nouveau
flower patterns in one colour against an
opaque white background as illustrated arc-
probably factory products, rather than
Galle’s personal handiwork. It is very rare
to find two identical pieces among the
massive output of his factory. Like most
French glass-makers of this period, he
usually signed his work. Even after his
death, when the factory continued under
the direction of Victor Prouve, the pro-
ducts were still signed ‘Galle’, hut a star
preceded the name, and production in
Gallc’s style certainly continued until
1913. Closest to Galle’s work came the
products of the firm of Daum in Nancy;
this concern was established by Jean
Daum Urol hers, Nancy, Franee, c. 1895
Jean Daum’s two sons, Auguste and
Antonin, were personally influenced in
glass-making by Emile Galle. They soon
(V.i890) began to produce articles decor-
ated with flowers and leaves in cased glass,
using on their works a monogram incor-
porating the Cross of Lorraine. Their
early productions of Art Nouveau glass
were very fine, and they continued to make
art glass until the First World War, but
their later work is of much poorer quality.
Once Galle died, his inspiration seemed to
die with him. Other makers of cameo glass
in Galle’s style were the factory of Lunc-
ville, near Nancy, and also Sevres, which
produced the designs of the firm of
Landier et Fils. Other lesser-known
workers in French cameo glass were De
Vez, Le Gras, Andre De Lattc, Edward
Michel, M. Walter, Alphonse G. Reyen,
Tessire du Motay, Kessler and Mareschal.
The technique of French cameo glass was
copied by many countries in Europe.
i \MH) glass vasi in KM) imhiiihu 111 ysn
By Tiffany, U.S.A., late i<)th century/early 20th
century. Hi. 146 mm (575 in.)
Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933) joined
forces on a shareholding basis with Arthur
J. Nash, an English glass-maker, and other
investors. Nash later brought in his sons
A. Douglas and Leslie Nash. They oper-
ated the factory at Corona, Long Island,
New York, known as Tiffany Furnaces,
and later as Louis C. Tiffany Furnaces
Inc. When Tiffany left in 1924, it became
the A. Douglas Nash Co. Tiffany products
owed much to L. C. Tiffany from 1 he-
design point of view, but it was the Nashs’
practical knowledge of glass-making that
made them technically outstanding. One
of the products that must be mentioned
here is their cameo glass, which generally
consisted of two or more layers of glass.
The designs were painted on in acid-
resistant materials, then the object was
plunged into an acid bath, which revealed
the under layer or layers. The design was
finished off with engraving and polishing
tools.
VASE IN ‘ACID CUTBACK’
By Frederick Carder, Steuben Glass Works,
U.S.A., early 20th century. III. 305 mm (12 in.)
Frederick Clarder of the Steuben Glass
Works, Corning, New York, established
an etching room for glass at the works in
about 1006. He was familiar with the
etching process in connection with cameo
glass from his Stevens & Williams days in
Kngland, and he carved his cameo plaque
‘The Immortality of the Arts’ while
working under the tutelage of John North-
wood. Until about 1932 Carder produced
at Steuben a cameo-type glass which is
called ‘Acid Cutback’ by collectors. The
design was transferred to the glass by
means of a print made on paper in a ‘wax
ink’. The area of the glass not covered with
the pattern was painted with wax, to
protect it from the etching acid. The glass
was left in the acid bath for the time
required to etch the designs to the desired
depth. Two layers of glass were normally
used, the darker colour most frequently
being the outer layer, though occasionally
single-layer pieces were made.
COLOURLESS GLASS WITH CUT
DECORATION
Ireland, late iSth century. Ht. 13(1 mm (538 in.)
(See also colour photograph 21)
Cut Glass: To most people the term means
the type of deep wheel-cutting used on
Irish glass from the late 18th century
onwards, and also on modern cut wine-
glasses and containers. The popularity of
today’s cut-glass products is a legacy of the
great popularity this type of glassware
enjoyed in Kngland and America during
the 19th century. In this style of decoration
angular cuts are made into the vessel
which, when polished, act as prisms with
adjacent cuts, giving a very brilliant effect.
The glass blank would first be marked
with the pattern, a mixture such as white-
lead and gum water being used. Following
the design, deep cuts would be roughed in
against an iron wheel fed with abrasive
such as sand. Water-cooled stone wheels
which need no abrasive might be used to
add fine lines. The cuts could then be
polished by lead or wooden wheels, or,
after the second half of the 19th century,
by plunging the vessel into a mixture of
hydrofluoric acid and sulphuric acid.
waisted bowl in clear, colouri j.s.s glass, stained decanter in cut glass with mushroom stopper
yellow, vviiti cut decoration England, about 1820. Ht. 241 mm (0-5 in.)
Ireland, 1.1820-30. Diam. 143 mm (563 in.)
The years 1780 to about 1835 can be
described as the period of freedom for
Irish glass-making, when the trade was
unfettered by any serious restraints. It was
during this period that some of the most
notable work in cut glass was produced in
Ireland. The principal glass-house cities
were Dublin, Cork, Waterford and Belfast.
The common belief that Waterford glass
has a blue tint is entirely wrong; some
glasses made on the Continent in imitation
of the Waterford style are markedly blue
in colour, but the original Waterford glass
is clear and colourless. Objects made
included barrel-shaped and straight-sided
decanters, bowls and vases, often with a
turned-over rim and a domed foot, covered
bowls and jars with button finials, urns,
kettle-drum bowls, plates, bowls and
stands, ewers with swan neck handles, jugs
with rounded bodies, and serving dishes.
The cut decoration was mostly done by
English craftsmen, who emigrated to
Ireland after Free Trade had been de-
clared in 1780.
The historical impact of early 19th century
English cut glass can be compared to the
influence on glass-making that Venice had
in the 16th century or to that of the
engraved glass of Central Europe in the
17th and 18th centuries. The inability of
the Venetians, with their lighter soda-lime
metal, to copy cut glass led to their eclipse
as the main glass-making centre at this
period. The success of the French and
Belgian factories in copying English cut
glass was a main cause for their develop-
ment in the first half of the 19th century.
The United States of America quickly
took to cut glass, and even in Central
Europe the style could only be partially
resisted. Mitre-cutting, or the cutting of
V-section grooves into glass, was the
characteristic Regency style. The decan-
ters, like the illustrated one, were mostly
barrel-shaped, with rings applied to their
necks, and usually with ‘mushroom’-
shaped stoppers.
Kngland. probably the 1820’s. lit. 89 mm (3-5 in.)
in m dish i\ tit GLASS
Kngland. about 1820. Length 219 mm (8-6? in.)
The V-section grooves of the mitre-cutting
were usually in straight lines. The main
decoration on the glass was caused by the
intersection of these grooves at ninety or
forty-five degrees. The simplest decora-
tion, when the grooves met at ninety
degrees, was the production of a field ol
plain ‘diamonds’ or small pyramids of
glass. There were many variants of this
sort of decoration, but one of the most
popular was the field of intricate ’straw-
berry diamonds’ found on so many pieces.
The bowl illustrated is a typical example.
Since the middle of the iSth century the
geometrical cutting of the soft English
lead glass had absorbed many glass decora-
tors, but it was the styles of the early 19th
century that were to establish its lasting
popularity. Regency cut glass was in fact a
logical technical development from the
shallow facetted glass of the mid-i8th
century.
Regency cut glass subordinated the shape
of the vessel to the decoration. Its solidity
and sparkling appearance reflected the
ostentation that was prevalent in all the art
forms of the British Regency and Con-
tinental Empire styles. In addition to the
square-cut patterns, other designs on
vessels involved the use of radiating cuts.
Usually the base would be ’star-cut’, and
the edge of the vessel might have ‘fan-
cutting’ on each of a scries of semi-circular
projections. This can be seen in the oval
cut-glass dish illustrated. It is strange that
this style of decoration, which needed such
thick glass for its execution, should coin-
cide with the period of the Glass Excise.
Between 1745 and 1845 the various
governments sought to gain revenue by
taxing the glass output in England.
Strangely enough, the effect of the Excise
seemed to be the concentration of all the
glass-makers upon one current style of
clear glass with cut decoration.
The Techniques of Taking Away
Early 19th-century glass shapes can norm-
ally be distinguished from their late 18th-
century forerunners by their heaviness and
formality. The cut decoration was more
often arranged horizontally than vertically.
This is apparent on the cut-glass dish with
cover that is illustrated. It has generally-
been assumed that most cut glass was
made in Ireland, where until the mid-
1820’s there was no Glass Excise tax. This
cannot in fact be true, since there were
never more than ten factories in Ireland
producing decorative glass, whereas in
England they numbered about fifty. Apart
from a few special cases, it is virtually
impossible to distinguish between English
and Irish glass on the grounds of style or
of the glass used. When the Excise was
introduced into Ireland in 1825, that
country was producing Ј20,000 worth a
year of flint glass, compared with over
Ј20,000 worth in Scotland and Ј170,000
worth in England.
The tendency to call all cut glass ‘Irish’ or
‘Waterford’ probably reflects the way
research has been made into the subject.
Much has been written on the history of
the Irish factories in the early 19th
century, but very little has been done on
the much wider field of English cut glass
in this period. Wine-glasses or ‘rummers’
of the early 19th century in England
usually had convex or straight-sided bowls.
Short bucket shapes were common, as
well as the taller flute shape illustrated.
Stems were short, often with disc-shaped
knops. The intersecting mitre cutting used
so much on other vessels was considered
unsuitable for drinking glasses, so their
decoration usually consisted of flat vertical
facets towards the lower part of the bowl.
Jugs had become a popular form of glass-
ware but in Regency times they tended to
copy pottery shapes and did not have the
fluidity of form of true glass art.

Antique Earrings. Golden Earrings, Precious Stones.

Tuesday, August 11th, 2009

FASHIONS IN THE ANCIENT WORLD
Right: Part of a wall-painting from Thebes, New Kingdom, circa 14-00 BC, depicting a scene from a banquet. Three Egyptian beauties are wearing the large earrings or earplugs fashionable at the time. Designed as faience or gold discs, they had a groove round the edge which fitted into a hole in the earlobe.
Below from left to right:
A pair of gold, enamel and glass paste earrings designed as a bunch of grapes suspended from a vine leaf, Canosa, late 3rd/early 2nd century BC. The fragments of green enamel on the leaves and the purple-red glass paste beads display naturalistic interest. Although the type is not very common in the Hellenistic world the design is typical of its age.
A gold disc earring with cone pendant, from Tarentum, late 4th/early 3rd century BC. Note the elaborate decoration of the disc surmount rendered with filigree rosettes and acanthus leaves. Disc earrings with inverted pyramid or cone pendant were used in certain areas of the Greek world as early as the 6th century BC, but it was in the 4th century that they reached the peak of their popularity. The type remained in favour throughout the Hellenistic period.
A pair of gold and garnet earrings, from Altamura (Bari), late 2nd century BC. Eros, god of love and death with his double funerary and erotic symbolism, is a popular motif in Hellenistic goldsmithwork. He is represented here standing with a vine garland across his shoulders and with a patera in his hands. The surmount is set with a garnet.
A gold earring from Crispiano (Tarentum), circa 375-350 BC, of disc-and-pendant type. The disc supports three pendants, the central one in the shape of a female head, a motif not as common as inverted pyramids and cones. The head presents an interesting peculiarity: a small hole at the base for the insertion of a piece of sponge soaked in perfumed oils. There are almost invisible traces of polychrome enamels, a technique that was to be much used in the Hellenistic period.
GEMS OF THE BAROQUE
Front and back views of a pair of gold, enamel, emerald, ruby and pearl pendent earrings, first half of the I 7th century. The front is set with faceted gemstones; the
back is painted with red and black enamel depicting three tulips on a light blue ground.
A pair of gold, polychrome enamel, ruby, turquoise and diamond pendent earrings, circa 1640. Each is designed as an openwork garland of floral motifs carrying a fringe of pearls, the centre decorated with a red and white tulip, and suspended on a flowerhead cluster surmount.
What is noticeable in both these examples, besides the intricacy of design, is the interest in floral patterns, especially the tulip, which had become one of the favourite flower motifs of the time following the ‘tulipomania’of the years around 163 4.
THE RETURN OF ELABORATE EARRINGS
Portrait of Anne of Denmark, consort of James I of England, by De Critz (born Antwerp circa 1552-3 — died London 1642). The fashion for open wing-shaped collars and hair swept up on the head prompted the use of long pendent earrings such as those worn by the Queen, each set with a large pear-shaped pearl, connected by a faceted diamond to a red ribbon bow on the surmount. Although long pendent earrings were not worn in Northern Europe until the beginning of the 17th century, in Italy similar earrings, characterized by satin ribbon bows and pearl drops, are already depicted in mid-16th century portraits.
The three designs in pencil, pen and ink, wash body-colour and gold on vellum circa 161o, are by Arnold Lullus, a Netherlands-born jeweller (active circa 1585—circa 1621) greatly favoured by James I of England, the husband of Anne of Denmark. The second consists of a pendent earring designed as a green enamelled snake from which hangs a ruby within a white enamel crescent supporting three green drops. The first is similar, presenting a green enamel snake suspending a single diamond, a crescent in white enamel set with faceted diamonds and a single green drop. The third is set with eleven table-cut diamonds in a polychrome enamel openwork border supporting two pearl drops and a green gemstone. All three are characteristic of the early 17th century for their size, elaboration of design, interest in enamel-work and faceted gemstones, a consequence of the improved gem-cutting techniques of the time.
THE I 7TH CENTURY: EARRINGS REVIVED
Although the Renaissance is a particularly rich century for jewellery, earrings were not worn. Elaborate head ornaments or coiffures concealed the ears, especially in Northern Europe, and the fashion for very high ruff collars prevented the use of long and elaborate pendent earrings. It was only in the 17th century that change in both hair and dress fashions determined the
reintroduction of large pendent earrings. This is exemplified by the portraits illustrated here.
From left to right
Battista Sforza, Duchess of Urbino, circa 1465, by Piero della Francesca. The Duchess is wearing typically elaborate Italian Renaissance head ornaments: a jewel on the crown of the head and three gem-set brooches fastened to the hair coiled over the ear. (Uffizi, Florence)
Elisabeth Stafford, Lady Drury, English, late 16th century, by Sir William Segar. She is wearing the fashionable high lace ruff collar and hair dressed over paddings to form two puffs concealing the ears.
Barbara Kilingerin, German, 1530, by Hans Maler zu Schwaz. She has her long braids coiled over her ears: a fashionable hairstyle since the late 14th century.
Portrait of a Lady, circa 1660, attributed to the Scottish artist David Scougall. The sitter is shown wearing large and important pendent earrings, each set with a pear-shaped drop on an elaborate diamond and gem-set surmount.
Ann Carr, Countess of Bedford, English, circa 163o, by Sir Anthony van Dyck. The countess wears long earrings, each set with two pear-shaped pearls. This fashionable type of earring was known as the union d’excellence and is always characterized by exceptional size and match of the pearls.
Above: A gold earring of boat-shaped design, from Tarentum, second half of the 4th century BC. The boat motif is enriched with rosettes, nikai and palmette surmounts and is suspended with an elaborate arrangement of chain and pendants. A dramatic chiaroscuro effect is obtained here by the exploitation of gold leaf applications, corded wire, chain and beaded work, replaced in later examples by the use of polychrome enamels.
GREEKS AND ETRUSCANS
Heads on Greek and Roman coins bear witness to the popularity of certain types of earrings, for instance those with vase-shaped pendants. Such earrings appear on Greek vase paintings as early as the 6th century BC.
Above right: A silver dekadrachm of Syracuse by Euainetos, circa 400 BC, depicting the head of the water nymph Arethusa surrounded by four dolphins. She wears an earring with vase pendant. And an electrum tridrachm of Carthage, 3rd century BC, depicting the head of Tanit wearing an earring with vase pendant, copied from the Euainetos prototype.
Right: Front and side views of an Etruscan gold earring of a baule type from Cerveteri, second half of the 6th century BC. The a baule type, so called because of its similarity to a travelling case, is typical of Etruria. It consists of a strip of gold leaf bent round to form a cylinder and is often decorated with very fine corded wire and granulation forming geometrical or stylized floral motifs. In this case the decoration is repeated on the side plaque and the elegant palmette surmount. The type was popular throughout Etruria from about 550 BC to about 470 Bc and was revived in the i 9th century.
Far right: A gold earring, from Volterra, circa 330 BC. Another typically Etruscan form of earring consisting of a horseshoe-shaped surmount supporting a cluster of beads, decorated with corded wire and minute beaded work.
THE RANGE OF ETRUSCAN JEWELLERY
Right: A terracotta statue from Lavinium, first half of the 4th century BC, testifies to the popularity of the Etruscan earring in the form of a horseshoe plaque supporting a cluster of beads, like that shown below centre.
Far right: A gold earring, of uncertain provenance, late 6th century BC, designed as a disc decorated with concentric bands of corded wire and granulation and with rosette motifs at the centre. The origin of this type of earring, or better earstud, is probably to be found in Lydia, from where it spread to Greece proper and Etruria. In Etruria it was particularly fashionable in the second half of the 6th century Be as is confirmed by many tomb paintings at Tarquinia where dancers and ladies banqueting are depicted with disc ear ornaments.
Below: A pair of gold earrings from Spina decorated with heads of the river god Achelous, end of the 5th century sc. Tubular earrings terminating with the heads of men, animals or gods were the most popular form of jewellery in Etruria at the end of the 5th
century BC, and were exported to the Adriatic area and to central Europe. With slight variations the type remained popular throughout the 4th and 3rd centuries BC.
Below centre: A gold earring designed as a cluster of beads on a horseshoe surmount, from Vulci, circa 3 50 BC, stamped out from a single sheet of gold. This is an entirely Etruscan creation popular throughout the region during the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. The globules are hollow inside and act as perfumed oil containers.
Below right: Gold and glass paste earrings from Tarentum, second half of the 2nd century BC. Earrings with a pendant in the shape of a glass paste or enamel bird were particularly popular in Southern Russia and in Italy in the 2nd and i st centuries BC. Etruscan examples very close to this, dating from 3rd century BC, have been found in Vulci and Chiusi.
A THOUSAND YEARS OF EARRINGS
Top row, left to right:
A pair of gold earrings of hemispherical design. The S-shaped hooks concealed by smaller bosses. Roman, 2nd century AD, from Cyprus.
A pair of gold earrings, each set with an onyx cameo of a Cupid’s head within a reeded gold border. Roman, 2nd century AD. Unknown provenance. The Roman idea of setting
hardstone cameos in simple gold earring mounts became a feature of Neoclassicism.
A pair of gold earrings designed as pear-shaped drops set with an amethyst bead within a border of pearls and beaded wire. Early Byzantine, 6th-7th century AD. From Kyrenia, Cyprus.
A pair of gold earrings, each designed as a plain hoop supporting four chains with pearl drops. Early Byzantine, 6th-7th century AD. From Cyprus.
Centre row, left to right:
A pair of crescent-shaped gold earrings, decorated with scrolls of gold wire. Early Byzantine, 7th century AD, from Polis, Cyprus.
A pair of gold earrings of crescent shape, filled with an openwork design of a vase of flowers between two confronted peacocks. The edges are decorated with gold globules. Early Byzantine, 7th century AD, provenance unknown.
A pair of gold earrings of crescent design, decorated with wire motifs of crosses within medallions and scrolls. Early Byzantine period, 7th century AD, from Polis, Cyprus.
Bottom row:
A pair of gold Greek earrings, 4th century BC, with twisted wire hoops and terminals in the form of Maenads’ heads.
Two Graeco-Roman gold earrings, probably from Egypt, i st century BC/I St century AD, with twisted hoops and terminals in the form of the heads of wild goats, decorated with garnet and green glass beads.
A pair of Roman gold earrings, 1st-2nd century a variation of the popular boss earring, with blue enamel inlays at the centre.
A pair of Roman gold and amethyst earrings, 2nd-3rd century AD, the gold and amethyst circular surmount supporting a gold bead and amethyst drop.
A pair of Merovingian earrings, 6th century AD, designed as a large gold hoop decorated with a polyhedral bead inset with garnets. This type is widely spread through Merovingian, Ostrogothic and Southern Russian areas between the 5th and 9th centuries AD, and seems to be the only original form of earring produced in Europe after the fall of the western Roman empire.
THE GREEK LEGACY TO THE ETRUSCANS
Far left: A pair of gold and amber earrings, from Riparbella, 3rd century BC, designed as negro heads carved in amber, the helmet or headgear decorated with granulation. Hoop earrings decorated at the front with negro heads were very popular in Greek and Etruscan areas in the 3rd century BC. The hook fitting of this Etruscan example is rather uncommon for the type.
Left: A gold earring from Todi, last quarter of the 4th century BC. Designed as an oval boss decorated with filigree and beaded work supporting a female head pendant between chains ending in spindle-shaped drops. An interesting detail is that the female head itself is provided with earrings. The type as a whole derives from Greek prototypes, and shows clear similarities with examples from Tarentum. But this is more than a copy; it is a provincial and overdecorated interpretation, probably created in central Etruria, of more sober and refined Greek or South Italian prototypes. It is very long — over
10 - 5 cms — but such lengths were not uncommon. Such earrings are made out of thin gold leaf and therefore, although large, are light and reasonably comfortable to wear.
Right above: A pair of gold earrings of disc-and-pendant type from Vulci, 3rd/early 2nd century BC. Disc surmounts decorated with fine granulation support miniature amphorae between pairs of chains terminating with tassels and clusters of beads. Earrings of this type were very fashionable in Etruria at the time and widely diffused throughout the Hellenized world.
Right below: A gold and glass paste earring of disc-and-bird pendant from Tarentum, 2nd century BC. The disc surmount is decorated with white and blue glass paste, the hen pendant rendered in white glass paste. Swans, doves, peacocks and cockerels were favourite shapes for pendent earrings throughout the Hellenistic world, from Southern Russia to Greece, from Etruria to Tarentum.

Antique Porcelain From Low Countries, Scandinavia and Switzerland

Sunday, May 10th, 2009

In the 18th century, as the fashion for porcelain reached its peak, many porcelain factories were established outside Germany and France, the main centres of production. Many new factories were founded by arcanists, modellers, and decorators who exploited their knowledge of porcelain manufacture, moving from factory to factory throughout Europe. Unsurprisingly, most of the smaller European operations imitated the styles of Meissen and Sevres, although their wares sometimes display an interesting mixture of influences.
THE LOW COUNTRIES
In 1750 Francois-Joseph Peterinck (1719-99) established a factory in Tournai and, with the help of the arcanist Robert Dubois, produced soft-paste porcelain. The influence of Meissen in the tablewares can be seen in the moulded basket-weave borders and the spiral patterns around the rims of plates, while the decoration is more English-inspired. The specialities of Tournai were exotic birds and scenes taken from Aesop’s fables in underglaze blue, both of which were used at Chelsea and Worcester. Typical of Tournai, too, are landscape vignettes in puce or purple monochrome, surrounded by small sprays of flowers. The factory also made a limited range of galanterie – small decorative objects such as snuff-boxes.
Tournai produced a large range of figures and groups following contemporary French taste in their subject-matter, in particular pastoral scenes of shepherds and children by artists who had worked at Mennecy. The thickly glazed groups are painted in a pale palette or left in the white, but lack crisp modelling. Also typical of Tournai are figures and groups in biscuit porcelain, especially those on high rockwork bases around a central tree; groups like these were made at Derby.
Peterinck retired in 1796, and ownership of Tournai passed to his daughter Amelie de Bettignics (1757–after 1805). The factory continued making simple household wares, but no more figures, until the mid-19th century. Many 18th-century wares were sold undecorated, and were later painted at a porcelain factory in The Hague set up in 1776 by a German porcelain dealer, Anton Lyncker (1718-81). The Hague factory also made its own hard-paste porcelain wares, decorated in a manner similar to Tournai’s. Confusingly, both The Hague factory’s own products and the Tournai pieces that it decorated have the same mark; any soft-paste ware bearing an overglaze mark of a stork is likely to be (but by no means definitely is) of Tournai origin.
The first successful Dutch porcelain factor was established in Weesp, near Amsterdam, in 1757 by the Irish arcanist D. MacCarthy, who had been involved in attempts to manufacture porcelain in Copenhagen. This factory has a complex history of ownership. In 1771 it changed hands and moved to Oude Loosdrecht, and in 1782 moved to Amstel, near Amsterdam, where it remained until its closure in 1820. All the Dutch factories used a good-quality white hard paste with a clear glaze. Some small figures of putti holding salts were made at Weesp. At Oude Loosdrecht and Amstel, production was focused entirely on wares – mainly tea, coffee and dinner services. In both form and decoration
the wares are similar to Meissen and
other German porcelain.
SWITZERLAND
Most porcelain factories in Europe were established by aristocratic patrons who could afford luxury products; in Switzerland, where there was no monarchy, a group of prominent citizens established the first porcelain factory in Zurich in 1763. The factory initially made a soft-paste porcelain but switched to the production of hard paste c.1765.
Reflecting the demands of Switzerland’s dominant middle-class market, the bulk of Zurich
production was tea, coffee and dinner services. These generally followed German Rococo and Neo-classical styles, but the complex scrolled handles on coffee- and teapots were unique to Zurich. In terms of ecoration, the Zurich factory is associated with small pastoral landscapes in a palette dominated by blues and greens. Sortie exquisitely painted landscapes in warmer colours arc by Salomon Gessner (1739-79), 1739-79), one of the founders; unfortunately the enamels arc often flaky because the paint was applied too thickly. The colourful, naturalistic sprays of flowers familiar on 18th-century Meissen also featured at Zurich, although the flower sprays tend to be looser. Other kinds of decoration included a version of the Oriental banded hedge pattern, Usually in purple, and vignettes of birds on branches.
Almost 400 different types of figure igure and group were made, mostly in the late Rococo style. The famous Meissen series of the street vendors of London and Paris may have inspired the set of 42 street-
sellers called the “Cries of Zurich”. The finest figures were probably modelled by Valentin Sonnenschein (1749-1828), from Ludwigsburg, and, perhaps because of his influence, many Zurich figures resemble those made there. The factory closed in 1791, owing
to financial problems caused by competition from other factories and imports of inexpensive creamware from England.
SCANDINAVIA
In the 1730s several French
and German arcanists, including Christoph Conrad Hunger of Meissen
and Vienna, produced soft-paste porcelain
on a limited scale in Copenhagen. In 1774 the first hard-paste porcelain factory was founded there. Queen Caroline Matilda was the main shareholder of this factory; after her exile it was bought in 1779 by King Christian VII and styled the Royal Danish Porcelain Factory. A fine, white hard paste with a clear glaze was used to make wares mainly in a severe Neo-classical style, much influenced by Berlin, Vienna, and Sevres.
Cylindrical teapots and coffee-cups with angular handles, and trays with angled sides, are typically embellished with oval and cylindrical medallions enclosing landscapes, topographical views, or portraits in sepia, puce, or pink monochrome, surrounded with swags and coloured borders heightened with gilding. Botanical subjects were also popular, the most famous
example being the 1,800-piece “Flora Danica” service ( 1789-1802) that was probably made for Catherine the Great of Russia.
The factory declined in the early 19th century, but under the direction (1828-57) of Gustav Friedrich Hetsch it produced biscuit figures, notably those based on the work of the Neoclassical sculptor Berthel Thorvaldsen. The factory enjoyed a renaissance when in 1885 the architect and painter Arnold Krug (1856-1931) was appointed artistic director. With new glaze technology, he introduced a revolutionary form of underglaze painting, using simple washes of blues and greys to produce an effect very similar to Japanese pottery. Johann Ludwig Eberhard Ehrenreich (1722-1803)
produced porcelain between 1766 and 178 at Marieberg, near Stockholm.
It initially used a soft paste for Rococo wares, especially spiral-fluted custard cups similar
to those made at Mennecy.
A hard-paste porcelain was
introduced from 1777.