Tuesday, August 11th, 2009
Egypt
In Ancient Egypt jewels were an important part of costume; they were worn by men and children as well as by women, and were often used to adorn statues of gods and goddesses. Images of sacred animals such as cats and crocodiles are often given necklaces, bracelets and earrings made of gold. Earrings, introduced from Asia, seem to have appeared later than other types of jewellery and the earliest important example dates from the end of the second intermediary period (circa 1600 BC). This is a pair consisting of several hoops soldered together which would have hung from large holes pierced in the earlobes. Another early type is a simple hoop of gold, glass paste, faience, jasper or other semiprecious stone worn by pulling the earlobe through the open end, something that was possibly done in infancy.
X-ray photographs of mummies in the Cairo Museum show earlobes extremely elongated and deformed by the use of very heavy ear ornaments in childhood. One mummy in the museum of Turin has two earrings worn on the same earlobe. The mummy of Tutankhamen has large holes pierced in the earlobes, proving that earrings were worn by men as well as women.
During the New Kingdom (1559-1085 BC) large earplugs came into fashion and these also caused deformation of the earlobes. They are designed as faience discs and have a groove round the edge which enabled them to fit into an enlarged hole stretched in the earlobes. Other ear ornaments of contemporary date were in the form of mushroom-shaped studs with the stem pushed through such a hole. In both cases these ornaments were worn in the plane of the ear rather than at right angles to it.
By the end of the XVIIIth Dynasty the decoration of earrings was very varied: cascades of drops, flowers and bell-shaped motifs for pendent earrings and rosettes and flowerhead motifs for the large discs.
The Greek World
Around 800 BC contacts between Greece and the East became closer and two centuries of Oriental influence in Greek art followed. Cyprus and Syria — taken in the broad sense to include Phoenicia and the Neo-Hittite North Syria — were the two countries that mainly influenced Greece, the latter acting as a channel for Egyptian and Mesopotamian influence.
The relative abundance of gold artefacts of this period is undoubtedly related to the opening up of the East to the Greek world through colonization, giving access to rich sources of precious metal in Asia Minor, especially to the Lydian gold mines. The preponderance of the ateliers of Eastern Greece throughout the period is evidence of this. Embossing, filigree and granulation grew in popularity and inlaying with stones, amber and glass made its appearance. Gold earrings of flat crescent design, often decorated with granulation and inlays, and suspended with fine chains are well represented, as well as earrings designed as spirals to be thrust through a hole in the lobe. They were either simple gold wire spirals or had a variety of finials decorated with beading and granulation, worn with the ends pointing upwards. Many variations of this type are known, some with more, some with fewer turns of thin and thick gold wire, others splayed out in the form of a letter W with a higher central point. In the late 7th century the W-shaped spiral was sometimes decorated with elaborate finials in the shape of griffins’ heads, pomegranates or rams heads of Oriental inspiration.
The crescent or boat-shaped earring of Eastern tradition, seen in Ur in the middle of the 3rd millennium BC, finally reached Greece via Syria and Cyprus about 700 BC and the type was to flourish there and in the Hellenized centres of the Eastern Mediterranean for some four centuries. Greek examples of the 7th century BC are characterized by a rather fat boat-shaped motif, sometimes decorated with granulation, on a thin gold wire going through the pierced earlobe. The hoop with beaded pendant of Cypriot tradition became popular in the 7th and 6th centuries Bc but remained confined to Eastern Greece.
Greek jewellery of the 6th and early 5th centuries is of artistic brilliance but very little has survived. It is, however, amply documented in vase painting and sculpture. Three of the few regions relatively rich in archaic gold jewellery are Sicily, Rhodes and Cyprus, where crescent earrings of the traditional form continued to be produced.
It was not until after the Persian wars that gold became more plentiful in Greece. By the accidents of history, this Greek Classical jewellery is better known from examples found in Southern Russia, Cyprus and Southern Italy than from Greece proper. The forms were extremely varied and among the abundance of diadems, necklaces, bracelets, pendants and finger-rings, earrings were very popular. They came in three main forms: the boat or crescent, the spiral or helix, and the disc with cone or inverted pyramid pendant.
As in the Archaic period, vase painting and sculpture would seem to suggest that earrings were the most popular form of ornament; statues of female figures were frequently adorned with them, sometimes sculpted in marble and sometimes made of precious metal, as can be inferred from the holes pierced in the ears. It is possible that the ornaments created to adorn statues or donated to temples to be worn by images of goddesses in religious processions were more elaborate, rich and complex than those used in ordinary life, which were buried with the dead and have now been recovered from graves. That they were part of ordinary dress is proved by representation on coins, vase paintings and terracotta figures.
As already mentioned, most of these surviving examples came from areas outside mainland Greece, such as Etruria and Southern Italy.
The boat-shaped earring, which, as we have seen, dates back at least to 13th-century Cyprus, was the most popular form of ear ornament in the Classical period. In its simplest form it consisted of a crescent terminating in a wire for insertion into the earlobe, and remained in fashion, virtually without a break, throughout antiquity. In the 5th and 4th centuries BC it was widespread throughout Southern Russia, Thracia, Macedonia and also Sicily where it was depicted on Syracusae coins of 474-450 Bc adorning the head of Artemis-Arethusa.
P 25 The earliest examples from the Classical period are very simple, consisting of a boat-shaped motif decorated with beading, filigree and granulation. Later, in the second half of the 4th century BC, they tend to be more elaborate in design, often with suspended pendants and chains of various types. Among the most complex examples of the boat-shaped earring is one from Tarentum where the boat is completely encrusted with filigree, granulation, leaf and palmetto motifs and is merely a vehicle
P. 27 for the exuberant decoration of rosettes, nikai, doves, chains and pendants. This decorative repertoire of palmettos, rosettes, flowerheads and spirals can also be found, enlarged, on contemporary vase painting and funerary monuments. The Tarentum example perfectly illustrates the general trend of the period towards increasing elaboration of decoration which is common to the whole Hellenic world. The heavy use of filigree floral motifs and stylized palmettos to enliven the flat surface of the basic boat-shape and the curved surface of the rosette petals are deliberately intended to create a complex chiaroscuro effect with light, shade and reflection and give drama and depth to the object; in later periods this effect was often achieved chromatically by the combination of various different gemstones and by the use of multicoloured enamels.
It is interesting to note that even at this stage the craftsmen of Tarentum were also catering for a less prosperous clientele, making gilt terracotta imitations of the type described above, probably cast in moulds taken from the more expensive gold examples — although it is possible that these cheaper, rather fragile ornaments were made specifically as grave goods.
Another very popular form of earring of the second half of the 5th century BC was that in the form of a disc supporting either one or three pendants, the central one invariably being a female head, an inverted pyramid, an amphora or a cone and the two flanking ones articulated chains with links of various types. By the Hellenistic period disc-and-pendant earrings were to become the most popular and widespread form of ear ornament.
Among the earliest examples is a superb pair from Tarentum, each with a disc decorated at the centre with a filigree rosette within a border of corded wire and beaded work and a female head suspended from a central pendant flanked by two chains of conical beads with bell-shaped terminals. The female head pendants are chased in great detail, with the hairstyle typical of the time as seen on terracottas, vase paintings and coins: parted at the centre, divided in two bandeaux and gathered in a large bun worn low on the nape of the neck. The hair being brushed away from the ears leaves ample space for a large pair of earrings consisting of a pyramidal cluster of beads suspended from a rosette. The great popularitiy of earrings throughout antiquity is certainly linked to the fashion for women to wear the hair gathered at the top or the back of the head, or at least brushed away from the temples.
The head-shaped pendants show an interesting feature: at the base there is a small hole into which it is likely that a piece of sponge or cloth soaked in perfumed oil was inserted. Putting perfumed sponges in necklace pendants was common in antiquity, and Etruscan earrings with perfume compartments have been found. Though not common, such earrings with female head pendants have been recovered in Southern Russia, Cyprus and Etruria.
Another highly significant detail on this example is the presence on the disc and chains of small traces of delicately coloured enamel. The introduction of polychrome enamels in jewellery was an important innovation that dramatically transformed the work of Greek goldsmiths, who had until then achieved effects of movement and contrast through the use of filigree and granulation. It is unfortunate that in this and many other examples the major part of the enamel has now worn away, since polychrome enamels defined the different elements of the decoration, and were therefore essential to the overall effect of the piece.
Rather more widely dispersed were disc earrings with an inverted pyramid pendant often between two chains. This type of pendant, already seen in the Archaic and early Classical periods, became very fashionable towards the end of the 5th century, reaching the height of its popularity in the 4th century BC, and continued to be one of the favourite forms of ear ornament of the Hellenistic period: many examples have been found in Cyprus, Southern Russia, Macedonia and Apulia. The type is also represented on coins from Elis, Locri, Metapontum and Tarentum, on the tetra-drachm of Eukleidas from Syracuse, and on 4th-century BC terracotta antefixes from Tarentum, Metapontum and Heraclea.
The earliest examples are characterized by extremely elaborate gold leaf applications, filigree and granulation on both disc and pyramidal pendant. Later examples are simpler and often completely undecorated apart from a gemstone, usually a garnet, set at the centre of the disc. Gemstones, which made their first appearance in jewellery towards the end of the 4th century BC, became more and more prominent from now until Roman times.
Contemporary with the earring types described above and just as important were
disc earrings with a vase or a cone pendant. They enjoyed a long period of popularity,
P. 26 peaking between the 2nd and i st century BC. Tarentum, Cyprus and Southern Russia
offer the best examples, often set with garnets, coloured glass beads and pearls. This
type is well documented on Syracusae and African coins of the ,3rd and 2nd century
BC.
P. 28, 29 Hellenistic art is cosmopolitan in character, the same forms being found all over the Eastern Mediterranean. Jewellery was no exception-, examples from Apulia are hardly distinguishable from those from Thessaly, Macedonia, Asia Minor, Thrace or Southern Russia.
Particularly popular in the 2nd century BC were disc earrings with bird pendants
made of glass paste. Sirens, peacocks and other winged creatures naturalistically P. 31 modelled in this way were widely popular. The dove was a special favourite because
of its assocation with Aphrodite.
Another variation on the same theme is where the pendant assumes the shape of a miniature Eros. Eros, tutelary god of death and love with his double symbolism, erotic and funerary, is a very common motif in Hellenistic jewellery from the late 4th to the late 2nd century Bc and is represented in various ways. Almost as popular was Nike or Victory, a feminine version of Eros. With time, emphasis on the human figure became so pronounced that the disc disappeared, leaving Eros or Nike simply suspended from the earlobe by means of a hook of gold wire.
Another very popular type of ear ornament from the Classical period is the helix earring, comprising a tubular piece of thin gold leaf twisted into a spiral with various decorative motifs as terminals. This had already existed in the Archaic period and was very well known to the Oriental Greek world as early as the 7th century BC. Many examples have been found in Cyprus, Rhodes, Thrace, Macedonia and Southern Russia, all related to the same prototype, probably of Cypriot origin, descended from the Mycenean spirals of Enkomi. Towards the mid-4th century BC, another form of earring appeared, consisting of an open circle with a small pointed finial on one side and a larger terminal in the shape of a human or animal head on the other. There are similar examples with human or animal heads on both terminals, one larger than the other. These remained popular throughout the Hellenized world until the beginning of the i st century BC. The favourite motif for the terminal was the lion head, but antelopes’, rams’, dogs’ and bulls’ heads are also known, their eyes set with gemstones or coloured glass pastes.
Both helix and animals’ head earrings raise the question of how they were worn. By modern standards they seem too large to be pushed through a hole in the earlobe, but no alternative fitting has ever been found. We must assume, therefore, that in the past women submitted themselves to far greater tortures than we are prepared to suffer today for the sake of fashion.
The conquests of Alexander the Great between 333 and 322 BC transformed the Greek world. Vast territories came within the Greek sphere of influence, while at the same time Greece itself was exposed to influences from Egypt and Asia. The Hellenistic age, as culturally and artistically defined, lasted from about 322 BC until the inauguration of the Roman Empire in 27 BC. Much jewellery has survived from this period. Gold became more widely available through intensive mining in Thrace and the dispersal of captured Persian treasures.
Earrings were designed as simple gold hoops either decorated at the front with a
single motif, such as a bird, a dolphin, a bunch of grapes, or a negro’s head, or hav-
ing a pendant in the form of such a motif. Much use was made of glass paste and gemstones to pick out details and create contrasts of colour, and a new technique known as `dipped enamel’ was introduced to give a multicoloured effect, especially to earring pendants in the shape of birds or other creatures.
Together with these types, which are very typical of their period, many other earrings of older design continued to be produced and amongst these the disc-andpendant model was perhaps the favourite.
Etruscan
The earliest remains of the Etruscans of central Italy are dated about 700 BC, continuing in a recognizable form until about the i st century BC. Their great wealth, attributable largely to the mineral resources of the country, is reflected in the sumptuousness of their tombs. In female graves, vessels of precious metal and silver and gold jewellery such as fibulae, pectorals, bracelets and elaborate earrings reflect not only the important role women had in that society, but also jewellery’s function of `hoard’ and ‘reserve fund’. Although in its earliest manifestations Etruscan art was remarkably free of Greek influences, it did not long remain so, and by the end of the 7th century Be Greek artistic influence was becoming increasingly significant. Etruscan art, however, never lost its identity completely.
The earliest Etruscan earrings, of about 625 BC, in the shape of crescents and hoops, are not dissimilar to those found elsewhere in the Greek world at the same time. The first truly Etruscan form of earring made its appearance just before the
p. 28, 29 mid-6th century. The type is known as a baule, Italian for a bag or a travelling case, and it is perhaps the best known form of Etruscan ornament. Its popularity lasted just over a century. It consists of a strip of gold leaf bent round to form a cylinder, the two ends connected by a gold wire also acting as a suspension hoop. The ends of the cylinder were sometimes closed by a circular gold plate. The decoration, consisting of gold leaf application in the form of stylized flowers and rosettes, embossed leaves or geometrical motifs, filigree and granulation occasionally embellished with polychrome enamels, shows a certain ‘horror vacui’, pressing as many decorative details as possible onto the small gold surface.
Another type of earring of typical Etruscan design, which first appeared in the second half of the 6th century, is the disc richly decorated with concentric bands of
P. 3 I floral and geometrical motifs embossed or made of filigree and granulation, often inlayed with gemstones, amber or glass paste. Earstuds would perhaps be a more appropriate name for this type of ornament, with a hollow tube at the back ending in a loop to be pushed through the earlobe and a safety chain attached to the side of the disc for fixing the loop. The origin of these large ear-ornaments, which in some cases measure as much as 7cms in diameter, is probably Lydia.
In the 5th century BC the most fashionable and widespread form of ornament in the
P 30 Etruscan world was a type of earring consisting of a tubular hoop decorated at one end with the head of a woman, a river-god, a ram or a lion. With slight variations, it remained popular throughout the 4th and 3rd centuries BC.
Among the most characteristic earrings of the 4th and 3rd centuries is the
P 29, 31 horseshoe-shaped plaque type, mounted with a cluster of embossed globules, hollow inside in order to act as containers for perfumed oil. An entirely Etruscan creation, these earrings were very popular throughout the country as can be seen from the many surviving examples and their frequent reproduction on terracotta and vase paintings. Particularly interesting in this respect is a group of votive statues found in Lavinium, depicting female figures bejewelled with necklaces and earrings of this type apparently moulded directly from the gold originals. These cluster earrings remain very frequent in tombs of the 4th century Be and tend to disappear in favour of new models coming from abroad only towards the end of the Classical age.
What we can describe as a ‘Greek Taste’ did not appear in Etruscan jewellery until the last thirty years of the 4th century and must be seen in the context of the general process of Hellenization which followed the conquests of Alexander the Great. The typical Etruscan forms gradually disappeared to be replaced by the more international disc-and-pendants, the pendants supporting shapes such as inverted pyramids, birds, bells and amphorae, or by hoops decorated at the front with amber heads of negroes. In some examples local tradition and external influence blend together; e.g., a gold hoop, decorated at the front with a horseshoe-shaped motif typical of the Etruscan taste, supporting a female head pendant of pure Tarentine inspiration.
Rome and Byzantium
Examples of silver and gold jewellery from pre-Republican and Republican Rome are very scarce. From those that survive we can conclude that between 70o and 250 Be Roman jewellery was for all practical purposes Etruscan. Material is even scarcer for the period between 25o and 27 BC, but we may assume that Roman jewellery, as well as Etruscan, was basically the same as Hellenistic.
For many centuries jewellery was a luxury looked upon with official disapproval in the Roman world. The amounts of gold which might be buried with the dead and which a Roman lady might wear were fixed by law. Certain items of personal adornment, moreover, such as finger rings, were strictly reserved to certain social classes and for specific occasions.
By 27 BC, when the Roman empire was established, Rome had finally swallowed up the remnants of the Hellenistic world with the annexation of Egypt in 30 BC. The political changes, however, had very little effect on minor arts, and during the first years of the empire jewellery continued to be produced in Hellenistic forms. The major centres of jewellery manufacture were the old Hellenistic centres of Antioch and Alexandria, followed by Rome itself. Progressively wealth, luxury and ostentation replaced Republican sobriety and jewellery became important in display.
In the eastern part of the empire and in Egypt earrings designed as plain hoops or hoops decorated with human and animal heads of Hellenistic tradition continued to be produced with only minor variations until the 2nd century AD. Other types consisted of long S-shaped hooks with variously designed pendants. A new type appeared suddenly in the i st century AD and lasted for about a hundred years. It consisted of a gold hemisphere with an S-shaped hook fitted at the back, sometimes surmounted by a similar but smaller boss. This was very popular: many examples have been found as far apart as Rome, Cyprus, Siphnos and Palestine, and it is also frequently depicted on mummy portraits. Closely related is a type consisting of a spherical cluster of pearls or beads.
In the course of the 2nd century AD a whole new class of earrings appeared, quite unrelated to Hellenistic shapes. In its simplest form it consisted of a gemstone set in a large bezel holding a drop pendant, secured to the earlobe by means of an S-shaped hook. During the same period earrings were produced in the form of circular gem-set elements supporting horizontal bars with two or three pendants. Gemstones including sapphires, emeralds, aquamarines and topazes were by now freely employed in jewellery.
Literary sources such as Pliny, Seneca and Petronius have much to say on the subject of inaures andpendentes. Earrings were the favourite manner of displaying wealth for the patrician lady who often turned for advice to the auricolae ornatrices, women whose job was to attend to the problems caused by prolonged wearing of large and heavy earrings. The new extravagance has been referred to by Pliny who tells us that Caligula’s wife Lollia Paulina wore emeralds and pearls on her hair, head, arms and fingers as well as on her ears at everyday functions. Women, he says, liked to wear earrings set with two or three pearl drops that rattled at the slightest movement of the head; hence their name of crotalia.
During the 3rd century AD the Roman empire began to crumble; during the 4th it was divided into an eastern and a western empire; and during the 5th the western half collapsed leaving only the eastern empire, governed from Constantinople (formerly Byzantium). One effect of these changes was that Oriental influences were again powerful in Western art, but as far as jewellery is concerned, Roman techniques and
P. 32, 33 forms continued to be used and earrings with two or three gemset pendent drops remained normal.
Earrings appeared to have fallen from favour during the Byzantine period, with fashionable ladies preferring to wear large and elaborate ornaments on the temple or sides of the face, similar to those worn by the empress Theodora in the mosaic of San Vitale in Ravenna, but they did not completely disappear. The only truly Byzantine form of earring which was popular in the late 6th and 7th centuries consists of a large but light pierced gold crescent decorated with openwork stylized flower and scroll motifs.
In western Europe, jewellery production declined drastically, and only one form of earring stands out as original. This consists of a wire hoop, simple or twisted, decorated with a polyhedral motif, usually inset with garnets. The popularity of this type is confirmed by finds from Ostrogothic, Merovingian and Southern Russian sites dating from the 5th to the 9th century.
The Middle Ages
Although the Middle Ages and the Renaissance are particularly rich periods for jewellery in general, the role of earrings is so minor that one can say that they virtually disappear for the six hundred years between the i i th and i 6th centuries. The reason for this is to be found in hair and dress fashion: elaborate hairstyles, headdresses and high collared costumes left very little scope for earrings.
In the Middle Ages it was customary for a woman, especially married women, to conceal their hair with a coiffe hubet and from the middle of the 12th century with a barbette, which consisted of a stiffened head-band worn with a chin strap concealing the ears. Respectable married women had to keep their heads covered when seen in public, a rule which went back to St Paul: ‘For if the woman be not covered, let her be shorn or shaven: if it be a shame for a woman to be shorn or shaven let her be covered.’ The concealment of a woman’s hair was a way of demonstrating dependency on her husband who was the only man with the privilege of seeing it (a woman loosening her barbette in public would be regarded as unladylike and morally lax) and explains why unmarried girls were allowed to wear long and flowing hair. In both cases, however, the scope for earrings was non-existent; with the barbette the chin band covered the ears and the cheeks, not only preventing the use of earrings but also hindering eating and even speaking; on the other hand unmarried girls with their hair flowing over their ears also did not have the opportunity to display earrings. During the 13th century written evidence for earrings occurs only in books like the Roman de la Rose where unusual jewels such as earrings are listed: ‘Et met a ses deux oreilletes. Deus verges d’or pendans greletes’.
Around the middle of the 14th century hair fashions underwent a considerable change, becoming much more elaborate and frequently embellished with precious
head ornaments. One of the typical coiffures, which developed at the end of the 14th P. 37 century and retained its popularity for more than a hundred years, consisted of two thick braids of hair looped over the ears; another consisted of hair puffed out and padded over the ears and kept in shape by a gold net. The changes, however, did not improve the scope for earrings.
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Sunday, August 9th, 2009
Dressing Tables, Mirrors and Washstands
Restoration appearance of the dressing table—lowboys and kneehole dressing tables—tables with fitted interiors—Vauxhall glass and Restoration wall mirrors—development of table mirrors with desk bases-18th-century wall mirrors—the mirror with candle sockets and arms—lightly made washstands of the 18th century.
Small side tables were used as dressing tables prior to the Restoration but were not constructed specifically for this purpose. Even during the latter half of the 17th century small occasional tables with a shallow drawer under the top were used in bedrooms and dressing rooms for holding toilet preparations and hand mirrors. Standing table mirrors had not yet been introduced and rectangular wall mirrors with wide convex frames were hung upon the wall above the tables used for dressing.
It was not until the reign of William and Mary that
dressing tables, which were designed for the purpose,
appeared on the scene. This type of table is sometimes
referred to as a writing table and in America is known as a
lowboy. It was constructed with two small drawers above a
single, long drawer and usually stood on four cabriole
legs. Like most of the furniture of the period it was made
in veneered, burr walnut. Some versions had a single,
shallow drawer situated under the table top with deeper
and narrower drawers at either side. Another class of
dressing table which was made about the same time was
the knee-hole pattern. This consisted of two nests of small
drawers on either side of a recessed cupboard. Any doubt
as to whether this piece of furniture might have been designed as a knee-hole desk may be dispelled wherever a pull-out brushing or dressing slide is found immediately under the top.
During the first quarter of the 18th century a further development occurred when the dressing table top was made to open like a chest lid. On the underside a framed rectangular mirror was fitted and the space immediately beneath was divided by partitions into numerous receptacles and boxes for holding cosmetics, pins and all the paraphernalia of the toilet set. The dressing table with the lift-up top and fitted interior continued to be made during the greater part of the long Georgian period, often without any drawers at all. On the other hand, there was a vogue for small chests of drawers, where the top drawer contained a mirror and fitted interior, which would also serve as dressing tables.
In an earlier chapter, mention was made of certain ingenious designs for small articles of furniture which were intended for some particular purpose and among these may be included the poudreuse. This was a small dressing table in which a central section of the top opened back to reveal a toilet mirror. On either side of this were two circular lids, let into the table top, which gave access to the powder containers beneath. This was for use in a time when both men and women wore elaborately dressed wigs which were always kept profusely powdered.
Before giving a more detailed description of the types of mirror used during the 17th and 18th centuries, a note on the development of mirror glass production in the British Isles during this time might prove helpful. The manufacture of clear plate glass for mirrors, except in rather small sizes, was not possible before the Restoration. The Duke of Buckingham sponsored the opening of a glassworks at Vauxhall in London about 1665, and a process for making larger sheets of glass was developed here. Because of the method of silvering then in use the makers were unable to produce mirrors of more than 4 feet in length. The thickness of the glass was appreciably less than that of later mirrors and one of the most important characteristics of these early examples was the very slight bevel which was ground on the edges. The steeper and sharper bevel belongs to those mirrors produced during the 19th century or later. Vauxhall glass continued to be made until nearly the end of the Georgian period and mirrors were also manufactured at certain other glasshouses, such as the one at Southwark.
As already mentioned, Restoration mirrors were surrounded with wide, convex framing which is sometimes referred to as bolection moulding. The frame was usually veneered with burr walnut, oystershell or flower marquetry. It was not until the later William and Mary period that swing-mirrors mounted on a stand were introduced. These were rectangular in shape with slightly incurving upper corners. They were pivoted on two straight uprights which fitted into a base containing a till of small drawers. A number of these early mirror bases were quite deep and sometimes had the appearance of miniature bureaux.
Later in the 18th century, bases became somewhat more shallow and had flat tops with serpentine or bow fronts which matched the dressing tables or chests of drawers upon which they were designed to stand. The uprights from which the mirror was suspended were also shaped and the mirrors were set in an oval framing or in one of shield or similar form. Towards the end of the century many small standing mirrors were made which had feet but no bases with drawers.
As the 18th century progressed new methods of silvering enabled larger mirrors to be made and these were usually framed in the architectural tradition with a frieze, cornice and pediment above. Those which were made to hang between the long sash windows of the Georgian withdrawing rooms were known as pier glasses. A small side table of similar design was often placed below the mirror or a console table with one elaborate supporting leg in the centre.
Convex mirrors were in favour after the introduction of sideboards in the time of Adam and Hepplewhite. It is said that they were designed to be hung above the sideboard so that the butler, without embarrassing the diners by too obviously overlooking, could watch the progress of the meal reflected in the mirror and could more unobtrusively direct his waiting servants in their duties. These convex mirrors with an ebony bezel and deep cavetto frames, decorated with a series of small gilded balls, date from those years around the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
The overmantel mirror was another pattern which was becoming more popular during the later Georgian period. It was introduced about 1745 at a time when fireplaces were beginning to be made smaller. This type of mirror was very often designed with three glass panels, one larger central mirror being flanked by two smaller ones. They were frequently produced with architectural embellishments in the Adam style and the frieze above the glass carried a conventional design of husks in swags, ribbons and medallions or a low-relief group of classical figures. As the 19th century progressed the overmantel mirror was made in one large sheet of glass which steadily increased in size until it almost filled the entire wall space over the mantelpiece.
Because it was realised that a good reflecting surface would increase the volume of light, many 18th century wall mirrors were equipped with branches and candle sockets. Small mirrors in plain frames with a single candle branch were known as sconces while those in elaborately carved and gilded settings of rococo design were called girandoles after the French originals. Girandoles were usually of asymmetrical shape but were made in pairs to produce a symmetrical or balanced effect.
Personal cleanliness was not the sort of thing that people of the 17th and 18th centuries worried much about. When the Romans occupied these islands 1500 years earlier, the civilised Britons lived in villas which were well equipped with hot baths and other hygienic amenities. These disappeared after the end of the Roman occupation and were not revived until the reign of Queen Victoria was more than half over.
In Chippendale’s time a superficial rinsing of hands and face was all that was considered necessary in the way of daily ablutions. Consequently, mid-Georgian washstands were very lightly made. There were two main types, the first of which was rectangular in shape with a double lid on the top. The water jug and basin were kept in a small cupboard beneath and when required were lifted out and placed in a circular recess in the top, after the lids had been opened.
The second type was even more lightly made and con-
sisted of a rectangular or triangular stand, on the top of
which the ewer and basin were placed permanently, but a
shelf was provided half-way down on which to stand the
jug while the basin was being used. The triangular wash-
stand was designed to fit into a corner and was probably
intended for the smaller bedrooms where space might
be at a premium. These stands are often employed nowa-
days as bedside tables, to take a reading lamp and a book.
Unfortunately, the original top with the basin hole in it is
sometimes replaced. While it is necessary to carry out
some modification if the stand is to be used as a table, it
is always preferable to leave an antique piece of furniture
in its original state. Here the problem may be solved by overlaying a new top on the original one. A third, but much less common type of small wash-basin stand is dealt with in the following chapter.
The introduction of larger jugs and basins made of the new ironstone china in the early 19th century and the growing demand for better washing facilities produced a larger and more strongly made washstand. This was about 3 feet in length with high sides and back to prevent water being splashed around. The top was plain, without a recess for the basin, and there were two drawers underneath with a shelf nearer the floor. These Regency washstands were usually made in mahogany with turned legs. They make very good writing tables as modern bedrooms with running water or an adjacent bathroom render their original purpose obsolete.
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Monday, June 15th, 2009
Art Deco Cabinets and Sideboards: BRITISH WALNUT SIDEBOARD, BURLED MAPLE CONSOLE, FRENCH COMMODE, FRENCH SIDE CABINET, BRITISH SIDEBOARD, BRITISH DISPLAY CABINET, BRITISH SIDE CABINET.
THE CLEAN LINES and geometric shapes of Art Deco cabinets gave free reign to the prevailing taste for luxurious finishes. The cocktail cabinet made its first appearance in the jazz age. Featuring mirrored interiors and door panels, it contained enough shelving to house all the accoutrements for making cocktails.
REFINED OPULENCE
French furniture designers, such as Paul Follot and Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann, created cabinets that were veneered in a wide range of exotic timbers, including amboyna, bird’s-eye maple, mahogany, zebrawood, rosewood, and sycamore, which were admired for their distinctive markings and lustrous sheen. Understated and refined decorative features adorned their cabinets. Crossbanding was used as edging along the top of a cabinet and delicate marquetry flower
bouquets appeared sparingly. Drawer pulls were defined by their contrasting shapes or finishing material. Decorative motifs were created from rare and
expensive materials, such as ivory, shagreen, tortoiseshell, and wrought iron. Oriental lacquerwork in strong colours was also used by some cabinetmakers, especially Jean Dunand and Eileen Gray.
CLEAN LINES
Furniture-makers working in the Modernist strand of Art Deco, such as Sidney Barnsley in Britain and Paul Frank] and Eliel Saarinen in the United States, created streamlined cabinets in geometric shapes. These designers still used lacquerwork and exotic veneers, but they combined them with modern materials, such as Bakelite, mirror glass, and tubular steel. Ivory, metal, and chrome were used to provide decorative details.
The stepped top of the cabinet is a distinctive Art Deco feature.
The cabinet is veneered with conornandel, an unusual variety of ebony.
The handles are painted red to look like lacquerwork.
The bracket feet are similar to those on late 17th- and 18th-century case furniture.
BRITISH SIDE CABINET
This rectangular side cabinet, flanked with a further two slim cabinets, is veneered with Coromandel, a variety of ebony sometimes known as zebrawood because of its distinctive striped markings. Below the stepped top, there
is a central drawer and the main cabinet, which has two doors. Two cabinets compose the outer sides. The bracket feet and the door and drawer handles are painted red, the only obvious form of decoration. The cabinet was designed by Whytock and Reid of Edinburgh.
BRITISH DISPLAY CABINET
This stylized display cabinet is veneered in walnut. The upper section of the cabinet is circular in form, with two glazed doors enclosing two glazed shelves. The cabinet is raised upon a panelled base and has block feet.
BRITISH DISPLAY CABINET
This unusual display cabinet, possibly veneered in walnut, is carried on two, deeply grooved triangular supports that resemble a fish’s fins. The cabinet itself is circular and has two
minimally decorated glass doors, which enclose four wooden shelves.
BELGIAN SIDEBOARD
This Belgian sideboard is crafted from mahogany, and veneered with rosewood. The shape recalls the forms of late 18th-century commodes. The minimalist design of this rectangular sideboard consists of two simple
doors with understated bronze handles, and the whole piece is raised on short, circular bronze feet. The clean-lined, geometric shape of the piece is complemented by the distinctive vertical figure of the lustrous rosewood veneer used all over the case. c.1935.
BRITISH SIDEBOARD
This sideboard, designed by M.P. Davis of London, is crafted in bleached mahogany.The central
pull-out drawers are slightly protruding, arching outwards. The strongly marked, distinctive figure of the mahogany veneer gives the geometric sideboard a rich opulence that needs no additional ornament - a characteristic common of much Art Deco furniture. c.1929.
FRENCH SIDE CABINET
This side cabinet is made from mahogany, with amboyna veneering and a stylized ebony inlay. The three drawers have circular metal handles and the whole cabinet is raised on tall, cylindrical, tapering legs. c.1935.
Designed by Sue et Mare, this rectilinear, mahogany-veneered commode is a good example of their understated yet luxurious style. The two cabinet doors have subtly stylized circular handles, and the legs and the lower edge of the cabinet are lightly embellished with carving. The cabinet is raised on four slightly tapering, moulded legs. c.1919.
This rectangular burr maple console has four centrally placed drawers with nickled brass handles. These are flanked by a pair of cupboard doors with circular wooden handles. The whole console is supported on two rectangular side panels. Beneath the cupboards and drawers there is a lower shelf that connects the two side panel supports.
FRENCH COMMODE
BURLED MAPLE CONSOLE
This sideboard, designed by Whytock and Reid of Edinburgh, has a rectangular crossbanded top, above an ornate, relief-carved cupboard door. Burr walnut doors flank the cupboard door, and the whole sideboard stands upon shaped legs with moulded feet.
This Swedish sideboard is made from birch, a popular light timber native to Scandinavia, with ebony and burr ash details. It has two cupboards with simple rectangular handles, short cabriole legs, and moulded, splayed feet. The centrally placed, geometric, dark wooden motif is influenced by Asian decorative motifs. c.1930.
This mahogany sideboard is a good example of French Art Deco, with its simple elegant forms, rectilinear design, and high standard of craftsmanship. The cabinet has four cabinet doors, decorated with narrow horizontal bands
of chrome and a central circular feature. The whole sideboard is raised on a pedestal block base. It is typical of Art Deco styling in combining fine woodwork with chrome details. c.1925.
Designed by H&L Epstein, this fine rectangular maple sideboard has rounded corners and a stepped top. The central section is made up of two drawers with circular, moulded handles above a cupboard with a decorative vertical,
slatted-wood design. Two more cupboards with moulded oblong wooden handles flank the central section of the sideboard. The whole sideboard is set on a block base. c.1935.
BRITISH WALNUT SIDEBOARD
FRENCH SIDEBOARD
BRITISH SIDEBOARD
SWEDISH SIDEBOARD
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Sunday, May 31st, 2009
BIEDERMEIER FURNITURE
THE TERM “BIEDERMEIER” covers the wide spectrum of simple, Classical, handcrafted, functional furniture made between 1805 and 1850, which was made at the same time as furniture in the Empire style (see p.212). While the nobility furnished their formal rooms with Empire furniture, the more
private parts of their houses and mansions were furnished in the Biedermeier style, which was favoured by the wealthy middle classes in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Scandinavia.
Political unrest in the German states in the early 19th century created a general feeling of uncertainty and increasing poverty. As a result, people withdrew into the privacy of their own homes, and the middle classes in particular began to take an increasing interest in furnishings.
MODEST STYLE
Biedermeier furniture typically had straight lines and lacked decorative carvings. Motifs inspired by Classical designs, such as columns, gables, egg and dart, and bead and reel details
were all popular.
The cupboard door is decorated with an arched panel.
From about 1830, designs incorporated scrolled forms: chairs often had splayed legs, sofas had arched backs, and moulded cornices were used as ornament for writing cabinets.
POPULAR WOODS
The most fashionable woods for Biedermeier furniture were mahogany which was imported and, therefore, rather too expensive for this essentially middle-class style, and also less costly local woods such as walnut, cherry,
pear, birch, and ash, combined with dark elm and thuyawood. The grain of the wood was the most important decorative feature. The natural grain of the veneer was emphasized with various pyramidal or fountain-like shapes. Root veneers of acorn, burr-walnut, and elm were also popular because of their varied colour and attractive markings. Darker woods were frequently used as borders around diamond-shaped keyholes, block feet, or cornices.
RESTRAINED INTERIORS Biedermeier interiors were modestly furnished, and the emphasis was on practicality and comfort, rather than decoration. The furniture was moderate in size, rounded in shape, comfortable, and homely.
Many pieces had a counterpart –another piece that was similar in size – to balance the furnishing of the room. The secretaire with a fall front and the blender, which looked like an imitation secretaire, but was
A typical Biedermeier living room, c.1820-30
This simple Saxon living room is typical of a modest townhouse of the period. The living room was the social centre of the home, and great care was taken with the arrangement of the furniture.
designed for use as a linen press or wardrobe, were very common styles.
An overall colour scheme was a prominent feature of Biedermeier interiors and frequently light-coloured upholstery, curtains, and woods were chosen to create a homely interior with an integrated sense of design.
The advances in manufacturing that occurred during this period did not have much impact until the second half of the century, so early Biedermeier furniture was visibly hand-made. Upholstery was generally flat and square, made of silk or horsehair, and wooden surfaces were simply planed and polished with oil.
By the mid 19th century, the style was seen as comfortable but rather dowdy, and was given the name Biedertmeier, a satirical term that meant “the decent common man”. The name was originally used in a German publication for a fictional middle-class character, and was not intended to be particularly flattering.
The style gradually began to decline in popularity and it was only at the beginning of the 20th century that this negative evaluation began to fade, and Biedermeier-style furniture once again became much sought after. This led in turn to the style being widely copied.
BIEDERMEIER DINING CHAIRS
These chairs are made of solid walnut wood and walnut veneer. The backs are balloon-shaped and have double baluster splats and a shaped top rail. The tapered, upholstered seats are typical of the period and sit above sabre
legs. The chairs are upholstered with a Neoclassical-style striped fabric, probably the original fabric, that is decorated with flowers. 1820
BIEDERMEIER WRITING CABINET
Covered entirely in cherry-wood veneer, this impressive writing cabinet has a fall front that opens to reveal a fitted interior. The inner compartment consists of 11 small drawers flanking a central tabernacle. The lower portion
of the cabinet consists of three large drawers set on simple bracket feet. This practical piece embodies the Biedermeier ethos of comfort and convenience and would have been used in the sitting room, which was the focal point of the home. c.1820.
Pigeonholes provide storage space for letters.
The interior drawers have Ivory handles.
The fall front opens to forma writing surface.
The bottom part of the cabinet is made up of three drawers.
BIEDERMEIER SOFA
The frame of this elegant sofa is scroll-shaped with a slightly raised back. The shape takes its inspiration from Classical pieces, and is typical of the simple, geometric design that was favoured by Biedermeier designers. Ornate carvings and
decoration were not part of the Biedermeier style. The sofa is veneered in cherry wood, which has been blackened in places, using a simple inlay of ebony to accent the flat surface of the wood. The upholstered seat
is coil-sprung for comfort. c.1825.
BIEDERMEIER WALL MIRROR
This mirror frame is architectural in style and is decorated with cherry veneer. The ebonized columns are edged by gilded bases and capitals, which support a Classical-style cornice and pediment. The central mount shows the goddess Diana. 1820 30
BIEDERMEIER WALNUT-VENEERED COMMODE
This commode has a top with an ebonized border above a frieze drawer. A further two recessed drawers are flanked by turned, ebonized columns with gilded Corinthian capitals and feet. The middle drawer is decorated with floral and figural details. 1820 30.
BIEDERMEIER GLAZED CABINET
This birch-veneered cabinet was made in Berlin and has a stepped pediment with a flat top. The oval glazed door panel is decorated with fine wooden spokes emanating from a central sun motif. At the base of the cabinet there is a single drawer with a lock. c.1820.
BIEDERMEIER DINING TABLE
Made in southern Germany, this simple dining table is veneered in cherry wood with a star pattern on the table top. Some of the veneer is blackened to add visual interest. The single pedestal terminates in a tripartite base.
c.1830.
see also biedermeier art deco desk kidney shape
biedermeier art deco desk bureau
biedermeier bedside commode chest
biedermeier furniture swedish drop front desk
biedermeier glass kaendler
biedermeier love seat sweden
biedermeier reproduction desk
biedermeier style doors
biedermeir interiors
authentic biedermeier mouldings
antiques clock index vienna biedermeier
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Thursday, May 14th, 2009
Settles and sofas before 1840
The box-settle was in existence in northern Europe by the 15th century. The earliest examples usually have planked seats and pierced trellis or linen-fold panelled backs, and are often richly carved. A plainer and sturdier form was the oak “monk’s table”, which had a bench-like seat, often set above an enclosed well used for storage, and a hinged back, which when brought forward served as a table. This basic form was adopted by furniture-makers in Britain (particularly in the provinces), and the Low Countries from the 16th century. Early box-settles were usually of oak, although elm, chestnut, and fruitwood were increasingly used during the 18th century; they continued to be made in the provincial tradition until well into the 19th century.
DOUBLE CHAIR-BACK SETTEES
The double chair-back settee dates from the mid-17th century, and its evolution reflects that of the chair back (splat). Invariably of walnut, this type of furniture is distinguished by caned seats, carved upright splats, and baluster-turned or strapwork legs joined by stretchers. By the late 17th and early 18th centuries the double chair-back settee was characterized by a drop-in, upholstered seat, slightly serpentine toprail with vase or baluster-shaped splats, and cabriole legs with pad feet. Usually made of walnut, it became increasingly bold and elaborate in form and decoration; by the reign of Queen Anne (1702-14) settees were frequently veneered with burr-walnut and enriched with seaweed marquetry on the splats and legs. George I examples (1714-27) were often inspired by the architect William Kent (c.16851748), and have carved shells, foliage, lion-masks and paws, and eagle’s-head arm terminals and claws. Mahogany settees were first made under George II (1727-60); those from the 1750s and 1760s frequently follow chair-patterns in the Chinese, Gothick, and French Rococo styles popularized by Thomas Chippendale (1718-79) in The Gentleman and Cabinet-Maker’s Director (1754-62). Continental examples were often gilded or painted with flowers and chinoiserie decoration, and are far more Rococo in form than their English counterparts, with exaggerated cabriole legs, serpentine toprails, and asymmetric splats. This latter feature is also characteristic of Dutch double-chair back settees, which parallel English Queen Anne and early Georgian examples, save for the enrichment of floral marquetry. However, Dutch chair-back settees with floral marquetry on a mahogany, as opposed to a walnut, ground are more usually 19th century. English settees of the late 18th and early 19th centuries are usually of carved mahogany or satinwood. Painted designs include peacock feathers and flowers in the manner of George Seddon & Sons (est. 1785), and Etruscan-black decoration, inspired by Classical vases. These painted examples are usually of beech and often display caned or rush seats with squab cushions.
CANAPES AND CHAISES-LONGUES
Canapes with padded backs and seats dating from the reign of Louis XIV (1643-1715) usually have walnut frames with simple channelled decoration to the legs and stretchers, scrolled arms, and cabriole legs. The most sophisticated canapes of the Regence period (1715-23) are masterpieces of the carver’s art; their giltwood or walnut frames were carved with foliage, shells, and chimerical dragons, and their backs strewn with flowers in the style of Juste-Aurele Meissonnier (1695-1750).
During the 1730s and 1740s, Rococo canapes became even more exaggerated in form and detail. They were usually gilded or of walnut, although Italian craftsmen also employed a mix of silver and gold leaf, a decoration known as mecca. Italian canapes are often less well constructed than French seat furniture.
The chaise-longue was characterized by its long seat, which enabled the sitter to recline horizontally, and was first recorded in France, Italy, and England in the late 17th century. Louis XIV chaises-longues were usually of carved walnut or beech, with caned seats and squab cushions. During the early 18th century the frames became richer and more florid, often being gilded or japanned in imitation of Oriental lacquer, while the caned seats were rejected in favour of fully stuffed and upholstered seats. Usually carved in lime or beech, and intended to be painted or gilded, inid-18th-century Continental chaises-longues were of a pegged construction. Although rarer, day-beds, usually without side-supports, were also made in England during the mid-Georgian period.
It was under the influence of the Prince of Wales (later George IV) and his circle that the chaise-longue reached its apogee in England. The form was the perfect vehicle for the reproduction of Greek, Roman, and Egyptian ornament. Simpler Regency chaises-longues were also widely manufactured, mainly in mahogany or rosewood, perhaps inlaid with brass in the “Buhl” manner. Painted examples with Etruscan-inspired ebonized and parcel-gilt decoration, or with a grained or stencilled finish, also abound. The earliest Regency chaises-longues are light and elegant, with simple, free-flowing lines, sabre legs, and brass caps and casters. Examples from the 1820s and 1830s are increasingly florid and heavy; they are supported on claw feet and arc often richly carved with exaggerated, stylized foliage.
DUNCAN PHYFE (1768-1854)
The best-known New York cabinet-maker of the early and mid-19th century, Duncan Phyfe also gave his name to the generic term for American furniture in the Neo-classical style, making use of the forms and ornament of Classical Greece and Rome. The work of Phyfe and his contemporaries incorporates “curule” (Grecian-cross design) legs or sabre legs, paw feet, harp and lyre backs, caned toprails, and decoration showing sheaves of wheat, thunderbolts, cornucopia, and swags. Unless documented by a bill or label, New York Federal and Classical furniture should be attributed to the Phyfe school. Phyfe-type furniture was made into the mid-19th century, with a revival in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
EARLY 19TH-CENTURY SOFAS
The development of the chaise-longue in the 19th century was mirrored by that of the sofa. From c. 805 to 1810 sofas became increasingly bold and luxurious. Frames of plain mahogany were initially fashionable, carved with Grecian ornament as promoted by George Smith (active c.1786-1828) in his book A Collection of Designs for Household Furniture and Interior Decoration (1808); these were superseded by more florid examples in rosewood and, later, walnut, upholstered with bolster cushions at each end. This extravagance was continued in the design and decoration of the frames, which often had tightly scrolled arm-terminals and were embellished with gilt-bronze mounts or inlaid in the “Buhl” manner with foliate arabesques, as on sofas by the firm of Gillow (est. c.1730). The sofas were supported by hairy-paw feet. As seen in the designs of Michel Angelo Nicolson (c.1796-1844) in The Practical Cabinet-Maker, Upholsterer, and Complete Decorator (1826), the basic Regency form persisted throughout the 19th century. However, sofa designs became heavier as the century progressed, with the introduction of shorter and fatter legs, often reeded, and tapering to brass caps and casters.
• BOX-SETTLES the most lavishly decorated settles, particularly those with linen-fold panelled backs, are often examples of 19th-century antiquarianism, in which old panelling has been reused or plain types have been later carved or embellished
• DOUBLE CHAIR-BACK SETTEES the majority of these are 19th-century copies, which may be identified by the quality of the timber and carving, and by the use of carved ornament borrowed from different periods
• CHAISES-LONGUES mid-18th century Continental chaises-longues should be of pegged construction; 18th-century examples were widely copied in the 19th century – these later pieces are usually betrayed by the stiffness of the carving; chaises-longues have very often been regilded (this will not affect the value if the work is of a high quality); examples that were once brightly painted have often faded
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Thursday, May 7th, 2009
Chests-on-chests
Although they were inspired by the 16th-century meuble en deux corps that was associated with the period of Henry 11 in France (1547-59), it was not until the late 17th century that varguenos on chests, escritoires, and chests-on-chests (tallboys), without fall fronts or top sections, were recorded in England. Traditionally of oak, although gradual superseded by walnut versions during the reign of William and Mary (1689-1702), the earliest chests-on-chests are rare indeed; they are of a very simple form, with a low “waist”, and are supported on plain bun feet.
18TH-CENTURY WALNUT CHESTS-ON-CHESTS.
It was under Queen Anne ( 1702-14) and George I (1714-27) that walnut chests-on-chests became increasingly sophisticated. Usually with plain moulded cornices above two or three small frieze drawers and six or seven long drawers, standing on moulded
plinths and bun, or later bracket, feet, these early chests-on-chests are entirely dependent upon the figuring and colouring of the veneer for effect. Burr veneers, and particularly burr-walnut, were therefore highly prized, as this timber displays a far richer figuring than straight-grained walnut. By its very nature, burr-walnut (cut from diseased branches) does not exist in large sections, and so it is a sign of good quality when the veneer has been applied in strips, often mirror-matched, rather than in long sections, as the latter would suggest that the surface has been either reveneered or “grained”, whereby straight-grained walnut has been painted to simulate a burr wood. While the plainest, and indeed often the earliest, examples have little or no decoration,
save for a tidy construction of overlapping drawer-mouldings, during the first quarter of the 18th century chests-on-chests became increasingly architectural in form and elaborate in decoration, with dentilled cornices, canted and fluted angles, shaped bracket feet, crossbanding and featherbanding, and even chequerbanded inlay. The most sophisticated examples arc inlaid with a ,,Sunburst”, usually in ebony and walnut but occasionally in ivory, in the centre of the lower drawer, which has a concave front to create a sense of movement. A further development of this period was the secretaire chest-on-chest, in which the top drawer of the lower section has a fall front that conceals a fitted interior with writing-surface, drawers, and pigeon holes.
As with bachelors’ chests, originality colour, and patina are very important when looking at a chest-on-chest from this period. Elaborate crossbanding and inlay, unusually richly figured veneers, and replaced handles and feet are often later “improvements” to enhance the value of the piece. The handles, if original (in which case there is little reason for them all to have ever been
taken out), are a very good indicator of quality and craftmanship, and the finest early 18th-century examples are of richly lacquered brass with a pierced, sometimes engraved, backplates.
18TH-CENTURY MAHOGANY CHESTS-ON-CHESTS. Although provincial furniture-makers continued to work with indigenous woods such as oak, elm, and walnut, from the 1730s walnut was increasingly superseded by mahogany. y. Usually made in the solid, rather than veneered, mahogany chests-on-chests of the George 11 period (1727-60), built on the architectural legacy of their walnut forebears, reached their Rococo fruition in the 1760s through The Gentleman and Cabinet-Maker’s Director (1754-62) by Thomas Chippendale (1718-79). Frieze s, hitherto always plain, were now carved in relief with mythological deities in the Palladian style, which had been promoted by William Kent (c.1685-1748) in the 1730s, with stylized acanthus sprays in the manner of William Hallett (c.1707-81) in the 1740s, or with interlaced blind-fretwork in the Chinese manner popularized by William Chambers (1723-96) in the 1750s. Similarly, cornices that had previously been flat became pedimented, swan-necked, and segmental, even centred by splayed eagles or acanthus cartouches, while the restrained bracket feet of the early 18th century were discarded in favour of Gothic ogee-bracket feet, often with carved and applied decoration. Moreover, this Rococo ornament was echoed in the increasingly Elaborate gilt-bronze handles, often manufactured in Birmingham, with a rich lacquered finish, and cast with C-scrolls, ,lowers, and chinoiserie pagodas.
Perhaps the rarest chests-on-chests are the serpentine-fronted examples executed by
Chippendale and his contemporaries during the 1760s. Often still with carrying handles
both upper and lower sections, a surviving trait from the French 17th-century concept of a commode-on-stand, they have cabriole legs and scroll feet.
The Neo-classical style that swept through Europe from the late 1750s and 1760s heralded a return to linearity and architectural purity. This new Classical language, first expounded by architects such as James “Athenian” Stuart (1713-88) and Robert Adam (1728-92) and adopted by cabinet-makers such as Chippendale, John Mayhew 1-36-1811), and William Ince was inevitably reflected in chest patterns made during the reign of George III (1760-1820). Increasingly plain and usually of mahogany, with plain bracket or occasionally, square tapering feet and flat-dentilled cornice, the more refined George III chests-on-chests are inlaid with ebony lines inthe “Etruscan” manner, or embellished with marquetry decoration including trailed husks to the angles or paterae to the friezes. This Neo-classicism gave way to the lighter “French” style promoted by Thomas Sheraton
I 751-1806) and George Hepplewhite (d.1786) in their respective pattern-books, The Cabinet-Maker and Upholsterer’s Drawing Book (1791-1802) and The Cabinet-Make• and Upholsterer’s Guide (1788-94). The chests-on-chests of the 1790s, often bow-fronted in form, are characterized by their plain decoration and splayed feet. Although the chest-on-chest was a popular form throughout the 19th century, later ones are usually inspired by 18th-century precedents and patterns.
AMERICAN CHESTS-ON-CHESTS
Mahogany chests-on-chests, also known as “double chests-of-drawers”, were to find their true expression in the hands of North American cabinet-makers such as John Cogswell (d.1818) and Stephen Badlam (17511815) in Boston, Massachusetts, Thomas Affleck (1740-95) in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and Thomas Elfe (1759-1825) in Charleston, South Carolina. Some country examples made by John Dunlap (1746-92) and Samuel Dunlap (1752-1830), and others in New Hampshire, are supported by free-standing frames. In some the top drawers of the lower sections are fitted as secretary drawers. Some examples from Massachusetts have blocked, serpentine, or bombe lower sections; a few made in Boston and Salem are elaborately ornamented with carved figures. Although Philadelphia chests-on-chests were made at the height of the Rococo period (1765-80), evidence of the Rococo is found only in the naturalistic carvings in the pediments and the swirled grain of the mahogany drawer fronts. A horizontal cornice separates the carved pediment with pierced tympanum from the unadorned facade. Chests from Charleston are closely modelled on English prototypes; some have removable broken-scroll pediments, and finely figured mahogany veneer glued of cores of straight-grained mahogany.
• FORM it is usual for a chest-on-chest to have three short drawers in the top section above three long drawers and three graduated drawers in the
bottom section.
• BEWARE beware of chests of drawers with three short drawers at the top: because of the desire for shorter pieces of furniture that fit in with the scale of houses today, the top sections of many tallboys have been provided with feet and made into chests-of-drawers;
it should be clear that the top has later veneering – the
top of the tallboy was not veneered, as it was too high to be seen; beware of tallboys inlaid with a sunburst (which is a particularly good feature), as this could be from a later date: on later examples the shaping is clearly more angular and awkward.
• QUALITY OF TIMBER this is one of the most important
considerations when assessing the value of tallboys.
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Thursday, May 7th, 2009
High chests-of-drawers
Chests-on-stands, also known as high chests-ofdrawers or highboys, were a development of the chest-of-drawers. The form comprises a series of short drawers at the top, three or four long, graduated drawers beneath, and two or three drawers in the stand. The form was made in England from the end of the 17th century in walnut veneer, with double-twist turned supports, barley-twist or cup-and-cover legs, flat stretchers, and a plain moulded cornice. This piece of furniture became a singularly American form after c.1730.
AMERICAN HIGH CHESTS-OF-DRAWERS
From the 1690s to the 1730s, following the popular London styles, cabinet-makers in New England and Pennsylvania made chests-of-drawers on tall barley-twist, scroll, and trumpet-turned legs, with matching dressing tables (lowboys) for use in the bedchamber. Their arched aprons (skirts) generally accommodated three drawers. Blind frieze drawers are found on some made in New York and New England. The finest are veneered with richly figured burr-walnut, their drawers
outlined with herringbone veneer. Others are made
of solid maple or cherry, and some are painted. Several from Boston, with four cabriole legs instead of six turned ]cgs, have their original japanned decoration.
By the 1750s high chests with broken-arch pediments had come into vogue. The Philadelphia high chest was tighter and more graceful, with a richly carved middle drawer in the lower section, the uppercase, like the lower, flanked by fluted quarter columns, and topped
by a richly carved broken-arch pediment with carved rosettes, a cartouche in the centre, and flame finials at the corners. The typanum of the arch, no longer housing a drawer, was filled with Rococo streamers, leaves, and grasses, while carving decorated the apron and knees. The Gentleman and Cabinet-Maker’s Director (1754-62) by Thomas Chippendale (1718-79) influenced the design of a horizontal cornices, which in the 1760s and 1770s separated the carved scrolled pediments from the unadorned facades of the drawer fronts.
High chests made away from the coastal cities are country versions of those made in urban centres. Those made in Lancaster County inland Pennsylvania, reflect the Philadelphia style, while those from the back country of the Shenandoah Valley are largely influenced by Pennsylvania forms that the settlers of that region were familiar with; eccentric maple chests, stained to simulate mahogany, were made in New Hampshire by the Dunlap family, suggesting their Scottish/ Irish origin. In New York and the South they preferred the chest-on-chest form.
• CONSTRUCTION some flat-top high chests were fitted with pedestals for displaying ceramics.
• Alterations high chests were made in two parts, which were sometimes separated; the top was often given feet and sold as a chest-of-drawers, and the bottom given a new top and sold as an over-size dressing table or serving table; even in their altered states, they are considered of value.
• COLLECTING in the USA high chests have long been the most highly priced type of furniture; matching high chests and dressing tables will achieve a premium.
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