Posts Tagged ‘drawers’

SOME AUCTION ROOM PRICES

FURNITURE
Bookcases, Bureau-Bookcases and Bookshelves
Sheraton mahogany bureau-bookcase, swan-neck pediment, 3 ft
3 in wide 1,650 0
George II walnut bureau-bookcase 650 0
Georgian mahogany breakfront bookcase, 7 ft  10 in wide,
7 ft 8 in high 450 0
Regency rosewood cylindrical swivel bookcase with shallow
pierced gilt metal gallery, 25 in diameter, 38 in high 284 0
Large Regency mahogany bookcase with dentil cornice, the upper part enclosed by four glazed astragal doors; the cupboards in the base enclosed by four doors with indented panels 160 0
Edwardian mahogany bureau-bookcase inlaid with ribbon, shell and urn motifs in satinwood. The top with swan-neck pediment with double-glazed astragal doors. The fall flap opening to reveal drawers and recesses.

Four long drawers below on bracket feet, 7 ft 5 in high 132 0
Georgian mahogany secretaire-bookcase, fitted adjustable shelving enclosed by glazed barred doors and cupboard below drawer, 2 ft 6 in wide 120 0
Georgian figured mahogany inlaid secretaire-bookcase, the upper part fitted with adjustable shelving, enclosed by glazed barred doors and fitted with two short drawers enclosed by panelled doors below, 4 ft wide 100
Small oak bureau-bookcase, the top with glazed astragal doors, the base fitted with a single drawer and double panelled doors, 5 ft 7 in high 95 0
A nineteenth-century mahogany bureau-bookcase with satin-wood lines. Top having glazed doors. Fall flap to base, which has four long drawers and is supported on bracket feet 56 0
Bureaux and Writing Cabinets
Early nineteenth-century marquetry inlaid cylinder-front bureau with pierced ormolu gallery, mounts and beading, having interior fittings, writing slide and three drawers, on taper legs, 3 ft 2 in wide 475 0
George III mahogany secretaire cabinet, the upper lancet panelled glazed doors above secretaire and panelled cupboard doors, 8 ft 4 in high, 4 ft 2 in wide 250 0
George II walnut bureau inlaid with boxwood lines. Interior having central well, drawers and recesses. Two small and two long drawers in base, on bracket feet 210 0
Eighteenth-century fruitwood bureau with three long graduated
drawers below the fall, on bracket feet, 3 ft wide 140 0
Georgian mahogany secretaire cabinet, the top drawer opening to reveal eight drawers and recesses inlaid with shell motif and a green baize writing panel. Three long graduated drawers to the base. The upper part

enclosed by panelled doors 95 0
Georgian  mahogany fall-front bureau having four drawers
under and on bracket feet, 3 ft 2 in high 70 0
Edwardian mahogany bureau-cabinet with pierced swan-neck pediment over glazed doors, sloping fall front over four drawers, bracket feet 66 0
George II oak bureau with fall flap and small drawers, two small and two long drawers below and supported on bracket feet, 2 ft 10 in high 60 0
Victorian mahogany bureau with sloping fall front over four
long graduated drawers, on bracket feet 58 0
Cabinets
Georgian mahogany bookcase cabinet with arched pediment surmounting astragal double doors. The base with double doors supported on bracket feet, 6 ft 6 in high 470 0
French display cabinet of Louis XVI design, mounted with ormolu female caryatids, the base with panels in the style of Vernis Martin, 3 ft 9 in wide 410 0
Regency mahogany display cabinet, the upper part enclosed by brass grilled and latticed doors, panelled cupboards to the base and supported on bold paw feet 290 0
Victorian walnut display cabinet in the Louis XVI manner, mounted with ormolu and inset with Sevres porcelain panels, two serpentine glass doors to the side and a door to the centre, 5 ft 1 in wide 126 0
Mahogany display cabinet of Chippendale-style with two glazed astragal doors below a swan-neck pediment and supported on cabriole legs and claw and ball feet, 5 ft 3 in wide 80 0
Canterburys
George III mahogany Canterbury with drawer in frieze on
tapering legs, 1 ft 7 in wide 130 0
George III mahogany Canterbury with turned legs 115 0
Georgian mahogany four-section music Canterbury with drawer
in base 85 0
George III mahogany Canterbury with slatted sides and ringed
legs, 1 ft 4 in wide 60 0
Chairs—Open Arm and Elbow
George II mahogany open arm chair in the French manner. Rectangular back and serpentine fronted seat. Arm supports and cabriole legs carved with rococo foliage and with scroll feet 150 0
George III mahogany open arm chair forming library steps,
the arm supports and curved stretchers with rope twist 150 0
Two early stick-back Windsor elbow chairs
Edwardian inlaid rosewood open arm chair with pierced splats
Chair—Dining Sets
Ten Sheraton-period mahogany dining chairs with cross rail backs and satinwood crestings on turned and reeded legs. Two carvers
Eleven Regency rosewood dining chairs with carved and reeded back rails, caned seats and on reeded sabre legs
Set of eight Regency mahogany dining chairs with padded backs, sabre legs. All are strung with brass, with brass carrying handles on the cresting rails
Set of two carving and six single Hepplewhite mahogany chairs with shield backs and pierced vase splats carved with wheat ears, on tapering legs
Set of six single and one carving Hepplewhite mahogany chairs with shield backs and pierced vase splats, supported on tapering legs
A composite set of eight eighteenth-century Dutch walnut dining chairs, inlaid with marquetry depicting floral bouquets, urns, scrolls and birds. Comprising one carving and seven single chairs
Set of six Sheraton inlaid mahogany single chairs with triple splat backs and stuff-over seats, on tapering legs
Set of nine mahogany dining chairs, one carver, in the Hepplewhite style with triple vase splats and drop-in seats
Set of two carving and six single Chippendale style mahogany ladder-back dining chairs with pierced serpentine splats and moulded legs
Set of six Regency mahogany reeded frame single chairs on sabre legs
Set of six William IV single dining chairs with leather seats and sabre legs
Set of two carving and four single Chippendale style mahogany chairs with carved and pierced splats and loose stuffed leather seats, supported on cabriole legs and claw and ball feet
Set of six Victorian walnut single chairs on slender curving legs
Set of six small Victorian walnutwood single chairs with oval backs and pierced scroll splats, on curved legs
Set of four Georgian reeded mahogany wooden seat hall chairs, crested
Set of six elm rush seat chairs with spindle backs Set of six Victorian single chairs with slender curving legs and damask seats
Set of four Edwardian mahogany shield-back single chairs inlaid
with satinwood lines and a fan Set of six Victorian mahogany balloon-back dining chairs on
turned legs
Chairs—Dining Single
Pair of George III mahogany dining chairs with moulded and rounded arched backs and pierced splats carved with foliage
and husk pendants. Upholstered curved seats on square legs
with block toes 50 0
Sheraton mahogany chair with stuff-over seat 17 0
Three early Victorian yew wood standard chairs 17 0
Pair of Victorian rosewood chairs on turned carved legs 5 0
Regency mahogany standard chair on reeded sabre legs 5 0
Chairs—Easy
George III mahogany wing armchair with an arched back,
shaped sides and chamfered legs 140 0
Early Victorian mahogany frame wing easy chair 50 0
Papier m&chi nursing chair with cane scat and inlaid with
mother-of-pearl 30 0
Victorian button-back nursing chair 29 0
Chests of Drawers and Commodes
Chippendale mahogany serpentine chest with reeded and canted corners and with four graduated drawers, on wide bracket feet, 3 ft wide 980 0
Chippendale mahogany serpentine chest, the canted corners pendant with clusters of fruit and flowers in bold relief, 3 ft 3 in wide, 2 ft 8 in high 620 0
Georgian walnut bachelor’s chest with folding top and four long drawers having brass handles and lockplates; supported on bracket feet, 29 in wide, 13 in deep, 32 in high 165 0
Eighteenth-century walnut chest of three short and three long drawers with tulip wood stringing on stand fitted with two short and one long drawer with cabriole legs and claw and ball feet, 3 ft wide 105 0
Small Georgian mahogany commode with fluted and canted
corners and fitted with two small and three long drawers 66 0
George III mahogany chest of two short and three long drawers,
3 ft 2 in wide 28 0
Chiffoniers
Regency mahogany chiffonier with three stepped shelves above with gilt metal sides pierced in the Chinese style, the fronts with rope twist mouldings. The lower section enclosed by two doors panelled with radiating

pink silk, 3 ft 10 in wide        150 0
Regency rosewood chiffonier, the single shelf at the top with acanthus supports. The single drawer to the front containing writing panel and fitted compartments. The whole with double brass rail and flanked by scrolled

acanthus supports        110 0
Coffers and Chests
Early Charles II oak chest of four panelled drawers with
panelled sides and bun feet, 3 ft 1 in wide 65 0
Late seventeenth-century carved oak coffer with a domed lid. The front carved with four arches and surrounded by stylised carving of leaves, strapwork and birds’ heads, 3 ft high, 5 ft 3 in wide 60 0
Early seventeenth-century carved oak dower chest, 3 ft 6 in wide
Seventeenth-century oak coffer with lifting top, the front panelled and carved in low relief with strapwork and foliage and the initials ‘HP,’ 4 ft 2 in wide
Cu pboards—Corner
Hepplewhite free-standing, serpentine-fronted mahogany corner cupboaid. Double glazed doors at the top enclose three display shelves. Base on square feet with double doors
Mahogany bow-fronted corner cupboard with glazed door enclosing shelves
Georgian standing corner cupboard with four panel doors enclosing shelves
George I blue japanned hanging corner cupboard with small open shelves above a pair of bowed doors. Decorated with chinoiseries, 3 ft 9 in high by 1 ft 11 in wide
Lacquer bow-fronted corner cupboard decorated in gilt with Chinese figures and buildings on a scarlet ground. The whole on cabriole-legged stand {not matching), 1 ft 10 in wide
Bow-fronted hanging corner cupboard with the door painted with King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, 1 ft 11 in wide
Black lacquer bow-fronted corner cupboard with doors decorated with gilt Chinese landscapes, 1 ft 10 in wide
Davenports and Desks
Eighteenth-century partner’s desk in sabicu with tooled green leather top and fitted with eighteen drawers to the kneehole frieze, with rococo gilt metal handles; circa 1780
Queen Anne walnut kneehole desk crossbanded with fruitwood, with one long drawer and two tiers of three small drawers, 2 ft 5 in wide
George III mahogany tambour desk, the shutter enclosing fitted interior with leather-lined slope, pigeon-holes and drawers with two drawers below on square tapering legs with brass castors, 3 ft 1 in wide
Mahogany pedestal desk with leather-lined top and nine drawers around kneehole, 4 ft 8 in wide
Georgian mahogany Davenport with drawers and slide and with leather-lined fall and brass gallery, 1 ft 8 in
Victorian figured walnut Davenport with carved front supports
Dressers
Eighteenth-century oak dresser with three small drawers with brass handles and lockplates and cabriole legs ending in pad feet, 6 ft 2 in wide
Eighteenth-century oak dresser with three small drawers with brass handles over a waved apron, with cabriole legs on pad feet, 6 ft 2 in wide
Stuart-design oak dresser, the cupboards and drawers with geometrical raised panels with gilt metal drop handles
Oak dresser, the top with a shaped frieze, two cupboard doors
and three ihelvet over three moulded drawers to the base,
with cabriole legs, 5 ft 6 in wide, 6 ft 8 in high 105 0

METHODS OF DRAWER CONSTRUCTION
the door-opening. Fit the fillets carefully and glue and pin the front ones in position, making the neat mitre joints at the corners, as in Figs. 9 (d)
and (g). Fit the panel and fix it in place by means of further fillets pinned on the inside of the frame at the back, as also shown in Fig. 9 (g.)
DRAWERS FOR KITCHEN FITMENTS
Success in drawer-making depends primarily upon the accuracy of the drawer-opening in the carcase. If this is at fault, the drawer, however well made, will be difficult to fit and will not run smoothly. Check the opening to see that it is straight and square. If necessary, slight adjustments can be made with it bull-nose plane, or perhaps by moving the runners or kickers.
Dovetailed Drawer. Undoubtedly the best type of drawer is that shown in the first illustration of Fig. 1. It is the standard form used in all well-made furniture. The cut-away portions shown in Fig. 2 (a) give details of construction, but the reader is advised to make a careful
examination of a drawer from an existing piece of furniture. The sides are lap-dovetailed to the front and through-dovetailed to the back. The front is grooved to take the bottom, which is held in place at the sides by means of drawer slips, which also are grooved. The lower edge of the back is made level with the top of the groove, and the bottom can thus be pushed into the groove from the back, and is held in place by screws inserted from underneath into the back. The top edge of the back is
FIG. 1. 1 inished appearance of(above)
a dovetailed drawer► and (top right) a
rehmed th-awer; (bottom right) a
much simpler form of construction
suitable for small drawers.
made about I in. lower than the sides, so that there is no danger of its rubbing on the kickers.
Drawer fronts rarely need be thicker than I in., with sides and back of A in.; for small drawers these dimensions should be reduced.
Plane up the wood, making quite certain that the inside faces are quite flat and out of winding; lay them out in their relative positions as in Fig. 2 (b), and mark the inside bottom corners so that it is known where each piece will be finally fitted.
Commence by making the bottom edge of the drawer front quite true, and fit the bottom corner, X, as in Fig. 2 (c), by planing the end and testing it in the carcase. When this end is correct mark off the exact
length of the drawer front and fit the other bottom corner, Y, in the same way.
Plane the top edge of the drawer so that it will just fit the opening. The drawer front, when fitted, should only just enter the opening for about I in., as shown in Fig. 2 (d), the edges being very slightly tapered to allow this. Next saw and plane the back to length, so that it can be pushed into the opening to make a good, close fit. Plane the sides to ensure a tight fit when the drawer is pushed right back into the opening. Then saw and plane off the ends square to final length, allowing for at least 4-in. clearance at the back of the drawer inside the carcase.
Fig. 2 (e) gives details of the next stage of marking out. Using a gauge (preferably a cutting gauge, but a well-sharpened marking gauge will serve), set it to the distance D, which is the length of the lap of the dovetails. With this setting, gauge thetwo sides and both ends of the drawer front, as in Fig. 2 (e). Re-set the gauge to a shaving less than the thickhess of the drawer sides; gauge a line on the inside of the drawer front from each end, and also two corresponding lines oil the back, shown at S in Fig. 2 (e). Re-set the gauge to the thickness of the back, and gauge a line on the back end of both sides, as at B. Set the gauge to the distance of the top of the groove oil the front from the bottom edge, and gauge a line at the ends of the sides, as at G in Fig. 2 (e); this gives the final position of the lower edge of the back.
Mark out the dovetails on the ends of the side pieces and cut away the waste; the groove in the bottom must be covered by the bottom tail, for otherwise a gap would show at the ends of the drawer front. Cut the tails on the back end. Scribe the pins from the tails, and cut and fit the joints. Plough the groove on the front, allowing at least I in. below the bottom of the groove. Glue the joints and assemble the drawer; make sure that the joints are close, either by cramping or by tapping them together with a hammer, protecting the work from damage by means of a block of waste wood. Test the drawer to see that it is exactly square and out of winding; this is essential if the drawer is to fit the carcase properly. Allow the glue to set, and then clean up the drawer, planing down the sides until the drawer will slide in
FIG. 3. Stages in the preparation and
fitting of slips; (d) shows a stopfitled
to the bottom drawer rail.
smoothly ; finally plane the front to allow it to enter the drawer opening.
Beware of planing the drawer without first being quite certain where it is tight ; tight spots frequently show up as shiny areas where the sides rub on the carcase, and these parts should be lightly planed. When the drawer fits the opening it is ready to receive the drawer slips; these are made, as Fig. 3 (a), by first ploughing the edge of a suitably sized piece of wood, gauging the thickness of the slip and rounding off the top edge, as indicated by the broken line, and then sawing off the required strip. Clean off the sawn surface with the plane. The thickness of the slip should be about equal to the thickness of’ the drawer side, so that the area of the running surface of the sides is approximately doubled when the slips are in place. On the front end of the slip cut a tongue equal to the size of the groove, as in This enables the slip to be located exactly in the groove on the front. At the back end of the slip the top rounded portion is removed, as at B in Fig. 3 (c), so that the top of the groove on the slip will be level with the underside of the back. Glue the slips in place and allow the glue to set.
Fit the bottom into the groove; if solid wood is being used the grain should be parallel with the front of Principal details of construction of a typical rebated drawer.
the drawer, as in Fig. 2 (a). Slots to fit the shank of the screws are cut in the bottom at the back edge to allow for shrinkage, and the bottom is screwed from underneath to the lower edge of the back of the drawer. To allow for possible shrinkage in a solid piece the drawer bottom must project beyond the back of the drawer; if plywood is being used for the bottom no allowance for shrinkage need be made.
A drawer stop should be fitted to the bottom drawer rail to prevent the drawer from running in too far; Fig. 3 (d) shows these details. In order that the front face of the drawer, when closed, may be level with the
framework, the stop must be sit back from the front edge of the rail distance equal to the thickness of t drawer front. Set a gauge to th s thickness and gauge a line on
rail. Two stops should gene ally be used; these are small blocks of wood slightly thinner than t e space below the drawer bottom Glue and pin these stops in position exactly level with the gauge mark on the rail.
Rebated Drawer. A simpler type of drawer, which can be used for small articles, is shown in Fig. 1. It is not 4s strong as the dovetailed drawer, but is easier to make, the sides beings t into a rebate on the front, and glucd and nailed in place, and the back housed into grooves in the sides. The bottom is fixed as for the dovetailed drawer by means of drawer slips; if preferred, a slip could be used oil the front as well, instead of the groove shown.
Fit the front and sides to the c r-case as described for the dovetail d drawer ; the essentials for obtairim a well-flitting drawer are the same in each case. Set the gauge to a distance which is just a shaving less than tlile thickness of the sides, and gauge tie inside of the drawer front as at S in Fig. 4.
Next gauge the amount of lap for the side, as at L in Fig. 4. Saw down the shoulder-line of the rebate, and saw or chisel out the waste down to the gauge line. Place the two sides together and square off the position of the groove for the housing of
back, the distance apart of the t~o lines being exactly equal to the thiqkncss of the back, as at A in Fig. Square these lines across on to I inside of the sides, and saw a chisel the grooves, the depth of which is fixed by a gauge line.
Saw the back of the drawer to its exact length, remembering that it is shorter than the front by twice the distance X in Fig. 4. The depth of the back must be less than that of the sides, and its bottom edge should be level with the top of the groove on the front of the drawer. Glue and nail the sides to the front and back, and be certain to punch the heads of the nails just below the surface, so avoiding damage to the plane when cleaning up the drawer. Test the drawer for squareness and allow the glue to set. Plane Lip the sides so that the drawer fits the carcase, and fit the slips and bottom, as described for the dovetailed drawer.
For a sticking drawer, candle-grease, soap or talcum powder is an excellent lubricant ; waxes such as beeswax have a tendency to be rather too tacky.
Simple Drawer. A simple construction, which could be used for very small drawers is the third example illustrated in Fig. 1. The bottom is rebated into the front and sides
FIG. 5. Drawer of simple glued-andnailed construction. Parts are cut away in the drawing to show details.
Fi(;. 6. Drawer with a groove formed in the side (a); how a drawer may he .fitted under a flat top (b and c).
(Fig. 5), and is nailed or screwed in place. The sides are fitted as for the rebated drawer, the back being the same length as the distance between the shoulders of the rebate on the front. Rebate the front and sides, and k1lue and nail the drawer; test for squareness, and clean up when glue is set. Fit and fix the bottom.
Drawer with Grooved Sides. It is sometimes desired to fit a drawer between two flat vertical members which have no horizontal members to support the runners. This can be achieved as indicated in Fig. 6 (a). A groove is made in each side of the drawer only, the front remaining Untouched. A thin fillet which slides comfortably into the groove is screwed to each side of the carcase, to support the drawer. The front of the drawer at the end of the groove acts as a stop for the drawer.
Drawer Under a Flat Top. When a drawer is required under a flat top, such as the top of a workbench, it can be fitted as shown in Fig. 6 (b). A rebated block is screwed to the bench, and a fillet, which fits the
groove thus formed, is screwed to each of the drawer sides. An alterna.. tive to the rebated block can be built up from two pieces, as shown in Fig. 6 (c), and is just as efficient. A block screwed to the bench at the back of the drawer will effectively prevent it from going too far into the opening.
CUPBOARDS
Small Cupboard. A simple cupboard built up of framed panels fastened together is shown in Fig. 1. The dimensions given in Fig. 2 (a) are for a cupboard 2 ft. high by 16 in. wide and 12 in. deep, but these proportions can be modified to suit the purpose of the article.
The front frame is jointed together by haunched mortise-and-tenon joints, while the rest of the frames and also the door have similar joints, with the addition of the groove for
FIG. 1. Small cupboard made up of framed panels and a boarded top.
the panel (which has to be allowed for in cutting the joints). Details of the grooved joint are shown in Fig. 2 (b); the variations in the dimensions of the different parts to suit the differing widths of the bottom rails of the carcase and door are indicated in Figs. 2 (d) and (c).
After planing the wood to size, all parts that are to be of the same length should be marked out together. Since all eight of the vertical members, or stiles, of the carcase have to be identical, they should be cramped together and the position of the Joints and the final lengths squared across all eight pieces together. Similarly the two front rails and the two back rails can be marked together, and then all four side rails.
Set the mortise gauge to the .’-in. mortise chisel, and gauge all the mortises and tenons at the same time, after first squaring around all the necessary shoulder-lines. Cut all the mortises, and then saw down the cheeks of all the tenons. Next set the plough so that the width of the groove made is equal to the thickness of the material for the panel ; plywood is very suitable, but solid wood may be used if preferred.
Set the stop of the plough to make the groove about J in. deep, and uggested dimensions for the cupboard (a) and details of the grooved
.joints (b). At (c) is shown a plate used for securing the top, and at (d) and (e)
dimensions for the bottom rails ol’the side frame and of the door.
plough the groove on all pieces of the framework, making certain that the work is done from the face side of the wood in every case. Saw off the shoulders of the tenons, and cut the haunches to fit, easing off the plough groove at the ends of the stiles so that the haunch on the tenon will fit the groove at the end. Cramp up each frame to see that the joints fit properly, and carefully measure the size of the frame on the inside to obtain the dimensions of the panel, remembering to add the depth of the groove at both sides, since the panel is to fit into them.
Cut the panel to size, test it in place in the frame, and cramp up. If the joints are forced apart when the pressure of the cramps is slightly eased, then the panel is probably a little too large; this must be adjusted, otherwise the panel will force the joint apart after it is glued up. If the
panel is of solid wood, the width must be ~ in. less to allow for normal expansion in damp weather. Without this allowance expansion would tend to push the joint open, or to cause buckling of the panel.
When satisfied that the frame and panel are correct, glue the joints and assemble, placing a spot of glue on the centre of the edge of the panel as shown at A and B in Fig. 3. This fixes the position of the panel and stops it moving in the frame. Cramp up the frame, test for squareness, see that it is not in winding, and allow the glue to set before cleaning up the frame. It must be remembered that the front frame differs from the others in that it is not grooved on the inside.
When all four frames are prepared, screw or nail the front and back frames on to the two end frames, as shown in Fig. 2 (a), and the main carcase will be complete. Measure Sectional riew showing how the shelf and bottom are fitted.
the size of the door-opening in the front frame, and make the door in exactly the same manner as the other sections. The door is made a fraction
-full” in size as a provision for slight planing down when completed, in order to obtain an exact fit. Hinge the door in place with a pair of 2-in. brass butt hinges. The ends of the hinges are usually placed level with the inside edges of the top and bottom rails, as in Fig. 2 (a).
Fig. 3 gives a sectional view of the cupboard, showing the method of fitting the shelf and bottom. The shelf is held in position by means of fillets screwed to the stiles at each side, and the bottom is secured by fillets screwed all round on the inside of the
base. The front edge of the bottoii acts as a stop for the door.
The top is of solid wood, overlapping the carcase by I in., and he~d in place by small metal plates which allow for the expansion or contra
Q-
of the wood. Details of thefe- plates are given in Fig. 2 (c). If a pliwood top is preferred, it should tie made slightly smaller than the top 6f the carcase, and secured with pan~l pins. A wooden handle is shown in the assembly illustration, and is screwed oil from the inside, but any oth r formof suitable fastening may e used.
Store Cupboard. A good-sized cup board is needed in most homes,
one illustrated in Fig. 4 could be used in the kitchen, as a store cud_ board or as a toy cupboard. The legs are out of I ‘-in. stall’ and the rails are all tenoned into them.
A convenient height is betwee 2 ft. 6 in. and 3 ft. The other dimersions are shown in Fig. 5, where the details on the right illustrate one cf the back legs as seen from the inside. The top rails have haunched tenon $, and all side rails are grooved to take the plywood panels for the sides, the mortises being cut to allow for the reduction of the tenons by the groov
FIG. 4. For a larg,
cupboard than th,t
illustrated in Fig. 1, th,
two-door design show
here is suitable. Le.,
raise the carcase cle,
of the floor.
CONSTRUCTION OF
A STORE CUPBOARD
Note that the back rails are set in from the back face a distance equal to the thickness of the plywood
panel, probably 2. or 3 in., and the
back legs are rebated to the same depth and i in. wide, so that the back can be screwed to the legs as well as to the top and bottom rails.
on them. Cut the mortises and saw down the cheeks of all tenons.
Next plough the required grooves; then saw off the shoulders of the tenons and fit all the joints carefully. Cramp up the ends dry, to make sure that the frame goes together correctly, and then fit the panels. Cramp
I ~6 In. SQUARE
FIG. 5. Principal dimensions of the cupboard illustrated in Fig. 4, together
with details of the jointing of the rails into the left-hand back leg.
‘File legs are grooved to take the side panels only, as seen in Fig. 5.
The front rails are fitted flush with the front surface of the legs, as in the detail drawings Figs. 6 (a) and (b), the ends of the tenons being mitred where they meet inside the leg.
Commence the construction by cramping all four legs together; mark out across them the final lengths and the positions of all mortises. Repeat the procedure with all rails that have to be the same length, and square across the shoulder-lines
up the front and back dry, in the same way. When satisfied that all joints are correct, rebate the back legs for the back panel. Glue up and cramp the two sides first, test for squareness and flatness, and allow the glue to set.
Clean up the ends, taking particular care to remove any excess glue that may be in the mortises. Again cramp up dry to test the final fitting; if satisfactory, dismantle for gluing and then cramp up the whole structure. Clean up when the glue is set, and fit and screw on the back panel to the rebates on the back leg, and to the top and bottom rails.
The bottom is fitted in exactly the same manner as described for the small cupboard on page 226, by screwing fillets to the bottom rails so that the bottom is supported all round. One or more shelves may be
fitted as for .the previous cupboar and supported by light batters screwed to the legs on the inside.
The doors are as described for t e door of the cupboard on page 22 ; a slight fullness in size is allowed f r a little planing down to an exact M. If the meeting stiles of the door a e left butted together as in Fig. 6 (f ?I no complications arise, but if te doors are to overlap with a rebate, is shown in Fig. 6 (c), the inside stile of the left-hand door must be made I in. wider, as indicated, to allow for the overlap, so that the two stiles appear to be the same width from the front.
A lock may be fitted to the cupboard if desired, together with x ready-made knob or wooden handle, as for the previous cupboard.
The top overlaps as shown in Fig,, 5 and 6 (e); it is held in positio by means of metal plates as suggested for the preceding cupboard.
If a larger cupboard is required th~ panels will need one or more cross rails, according to height, as indcated by the broken line in the end view of Fig. 5 (a). The doors also will need a similar rail. These rails are mortised into the vertical me
bers and have grooves on their to) and bottom edges to take the pane~ The mortise is therefore equal to th width of the rail, minus twice tht depth of the groove (Fig. 6d).
Jointing of rails and legs (a and b), and a cross rail necessary in large frames (d); the other sketches give details of the doors, (c) and (f) being allernaHres,for the meeting stiles.

BRITISH VERNACULAR,
THE VERNACULAR FURNITURE of the
first 20 years of the 19th century has more in common with the light, elegant furniture of the late 18th century than with high-style furniture in the style of Thomas Hope. It was usually made of mahogany, either solid or used as a veneer, or the newly popular rosewood. Pieces were also constructed of inexpensive timbers, such as beech, and then painted to simulate rosewood or more exotic timbers. Penwork, often the pastime of young ladies, was also used to decorate cheaper woods. Here, once again, the Regency pictorial fascination with surface pattern and large, flat expanses of timber is evident.
It was also during the early 19th century that oak re-emerged as a wood suitable for use in public rooms, and it was popularized by the work of George Bullock. However, oak really came to prominence in the antiquarian interiors of the 1820s and 1830s.
SUBTLE MOTIFS
Although plainer than the classic Regency furniture destined for the Prince Regent’s circle, furniture made for middle-class homes or country-house bedrooms still displayed all the inventiveness and exoticism of the period. Subtle lotus-leaf carvings evoked the cultures of the Nile, while Greek-key patterned friezes on tables and bookcases echoed the ancient culture of Athens. Similarly, thin crossbandings of an exotic timber such as calamander or amboyna were often used on even the humblest furniture. These were contained within boxwood or ebonized stringing, although it was often replaced with ebony on more expensive pieces. Shiny brass was also back in fashion, utilized as inlaid line decoration, cut patterns, or pierced galleries. The cabinet-maker George Oakley is often associated with the use of cut-star motifs in brass.
NEW FORMS
One of the characteristics of the period was the increased variety of furniture types that were made for a range of everyday needs. This is evident in the wide variety of tables designed for specific functions. For example, sofa tables with side flaps, central pedestals, or side standards —
sometimes of Classical lyre form —stood in front of sofas, while library tables, often with leather-inset tops and fixed ends, were designed to be used in libraries. Kidney-shaped, occasional, and worktables (for sewing equipment) were all new types of furniture, as was the nest of tables. Sometimes called quartette tables, these were designed so that three, four, or five tables fitted into one another.
Chiffoniers — a type of side cabinet —were also invented around 1800. Games and dining tables, both Georgian inventions, remained popular and were often designed with central, turned pedestals and reeded, downswept legs.
The so-called Trafalgar chair is probably one of the archetypes of Regency vernacular design (see p.242). Its sinewy line, with sabre legs at the front and back, epitomizes the gracefulness of the era. These chairs usually had a drop-in seat, although some seats were caned.
Caning, with its overtones of the Far East, came back into fashion at this time, and was used both in seats, and the sides and backs of library bergeres.
The Davenport desk was another new form of this period. It owes its name to a Captain Davenport, who commissioned the design from the firm of Gillows.
GILLOWS STYLE
Vernacular furniture production in England in this period is dominated by Gillows, which started in Lancashire in the 1830s and later opened in London. Famous for high-quality mahogany furniture, often characterized by carefully matched figured veneers, it is also associated with particular motifs. On furniture, it would frequently gadroon the edges or add lobes to the legs. Unlike designers such as Hepplewhite, Gillows never produced a pattern book, but its Estimate Sketch Books provide a valuable index of its evolving style and are preserved in the Westminster City Archives. Unusually for this period, it frequently stamped its furniture (often on the front upper edge of a drawer) with its name. Although this would become more standard practice later in the century, Gillows
is known to have left its mark on furniture from the 1790s.
SCOTTISH CHEST OF DRAWERS
This Scottish, bow front chest of drawers is made of mahogany and decorated with boxwood stringing. The piece has a reeded, D-shaped top above a shallow frieze drawer with compartments and a writing slide.
Below the frieze are four long graduated drawers flanked on either side by pollard elm panels. The piece has a curved apron. The chest of drawers is raised on tapering, square-section legs with reeded decoration. Early 19th century.
GEORGE IV TEA TABLE
This elegant tea table is made of mahogany. The rectangular top has rounded corners and opens out to create a larger surface. The top sits above a flame-veneered frieze with a carved border. The table top is raised
on a baluster column, which is decorated with carved acanthus leaves. The table is supported on four outswept, moulded legs decorated with a carved reeded pattern. The legs
terminate in brass, leaf-cased terminals and casters. Early 19th century.
PENWORK SIDE CABINET
DAVENPORT DESK
MAHOGANY TALLBOY
This Regency side cabinet has a shaped back panel with a narrow shelf supported on miniature columns, set above the main shelf. A single drawer is raised on turned, column supports and a plinth base. All the surfaces are decorated with penwork. 1810
The hinged top of this mahogany desk has a gallery to the rear, above a small pen drawer. Below this are four graduated side drawers. The desk front is panelled, with a shaped, crossbanded border. The case stands on carved and moulded bracket feet. c.1810.
This tall chest of drawers, or tallboy, has a domed, panelled cornice above six long drawers. All of the drawers are lined with mahogany and have brass shell ring-handles. The piece stands on sabre legs to the front. Early 19th century.
DECORATED BERGUE
This armchair has a richly carved and decorated frame, arm supports, and legs. The side, back, and seat panels are caned and have loose cushions. The armrests are padded. The seat is supported on turned and reeded legs with brass casters.
The square, tapering leg is inlaid with boxwood.
The frieze drawer is fitted with small compartments for writing implements.
This mahogany and marquetry bonheur du jour has a shaped upper section, two matching veneer cupboard doors, a writing surface, frieze drawer, and tapering legs with spade feet. c.1790.

NAPOLEON CROWNED HIMSELF Emperor
in 1804. From this date until his abdication in 1814, and final defeat by Wellington at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, he dominated the European scene. Moreover, his taste, and the Empire style that he cultivated, became omnipresent in Europe.
Already emerging before 1804, this austere style sought to associate Napoleon’s Empire with the glories of ancient Egypt and ancient Rome. This aim manifested itself in an almost archaeological interest in Classical motifs, promoted by Perrier and Fontaine, whose Recueil was
The frieze is decorated with
a central gilt-bronze rosette,
flanked by palmettes.
The protruding columns
have gilt-bronze
capitals and bases.
republished in 1812. The light style of furniture that prevailed before the turn of the century was now transformed into a truly imperial idiom in keeping with Napoleon’s despotic tendencies.
EMPIRE MOUNTS
Neoclassical influences are evident in the ubiquitous bronze dore mounts on Empire furniture: griffons, lions, and sphinxes abound. Martial motifs were especially popular, such as trophies or crossed swords. Some of the best-quality mounts were produced in the
workshop of Pierre Thomire. His mounts appear on furniture by Beneman and Weisweiler. Other Beneman pieces are known to have similar, high-quality applique details made by Antoine-Andre Ravario.
EMPIRE MAKERS
The dissolution of the Guild of Joiners and Cabinet-Makers in 1791 meant that craftsmen could now establish workshops comprising several trades in a single location. The workshops of the ancien regime were quick to
re-open after the Revolution, seeking a wider, often middle-class, clientele, who were sometimes less demanding. Some feared that this might lead to a decline in quality French furniture. However, the finest pieces, made for the Emperor and his circle, reveal the same technical brilliance as items produced in the previous century. Many of the great ebenistes had previously worked for Louis XVI, including Bellanger, Benenian, Georges Jacob, Molitor, and Weisweiler. It was also a period of great productivity between 1810 and 1811, as much as 17,000 francs was spent on furniture for Imperial residences, and half a million francs went to Georges Jacob Desmalter alone for furniture made for the Palais des Tuileries. There
were 10,000 workers involved with furniture production in Paris during the first decade of the 19th century, making pieces for both the local and export markets. Jacob-Desmalter
employed at least 88 workers, some at his Porte Saint-Denis workshop.
Upholstery and drapery sometimes overpowered the Empire room. Ceilings could be tented in strong, usually striped, colours (blues, reds,
The Empire style was born from a merger of art and political aspirations in a heady, post-Revolution atmosphere upheaval. It was
greens, and yellows) to echo tented military accommodation. The embroidered patterns on chair upholstery were both large and bold.
NOVEL FORMS
Several novel forms also appeared. The lit en bateau was very fashionable, often with scrolled ends, raised on a dais, and draped in fabric. It was similar in form to the recamier, or day bed, and the meridienne, a type of sofa with scrolled ends, one higher than the other. For middle-class homes, the less expensive lit droit was popular; it had a headboard under a triangular pediment. For the first time,
bedrooms were furnished with a Psyche mirror, or Cheval glass. The small, round gueridon, or candlestand, served a variety of functions, and sometimes had metal legs, patinated green to simulate ancient metals, possibly set with a porphyry top.
The commode slowly became more functional and occasionally the drawers were set behind doors. Chairs were often supported by Grecian sabre back legs, and had either rectangular or over-scrolled backs. Usually the
arms were supported on human or swan forms. Empress Josephine’s dressing room at Fontainebleau probably houses the most famous Empire chairs – those with a curved back en gondole.
Finally, there were various furniture forms for writing, from the box-like secretaire d abattant (and its relative the secretaire de compiegne) to the bureau plat, which assumed grand and monumental proportions under the Empire.
ARMCHAIRS “AUX TETES DE LION”
are made of mahogany. Each has
rectilinear back, an upholstered seat
and armrests, upholstered seats are
on sabre legs, with those at the front
terminating in lion’s-paw feet. The chairs are attributed to the maker Jean-Baptiste Demay of Paris. Although lion’s masks appear frequently on British furniture of the period, they are a
relatively unusual feature on French Empire pieces. 1805
This fine-quality flame-veneered tric trac, or games, table has a removable writing table top with inset brass corners and a baize playing-card surface on the reverse. Each side has one false drawer and one drawer for playing pieces. The table stands on square, tapering legs terminating in brass casters. c.1810.

MID 19TH CENTURY TABLES

AN ABUNDANCE OF table types, each
designed for a specific use, was made in the mid 19th century Many of these were suited to popular pastimes of the period, such as playing cards. The general trend was for smaller, more portable tables in greater numbers.
TABLES FOR EVERY PURPOSE Pier tables, originally used as early as the 16th century, became popular again as householders sought to fill their homes with more furniture than ever before. The card table was another popular addition to many homes; unobtrusive when not in use, when required for playing cards, the top of the table was opened to reveal a baize-lined playing surface. The worktable, designed to store needlework accoutrements or writing utensils, frequently incorporated a hanging bag as was previously the fashion. Despite the introduction of gas and oil lighting,
Scrolling brasswork is inlaid on a red tortoiseshell ground.
the torchere remained a very popular fixture on which to stand candlesticks.
A MIXTURE OF STYLES
Tables of all kinds were produced in a wide range of historical and cultural styles. Tables in the Rococo style were covered with extravagant –C” and “S” scrolls and rested on cabriole legs, whereas fluted, tapering legs were found on Classical- or Renaissance style tables. A softening and rounding of contours was expressed in the West by the use of serpentine shapes and undulating mouldings, but Oriental forms remained steadfastly rectilinear.
French and Italian console tables often had marble tops, a fashion
that was exported to many countries, especially Britain and the United States. Centre and side tables often had tripod legs. Such tables frequently featured foldaway tops so that they could be put away easily when not in use.
Each cabriole leg features a gilt bronze mount at its head.
The serpentine platform base has a red tortoiseshell ground.
Acanthus and scroll mounts Bun feet support the
decorate the base of each leg. shaped undertier.
FRENCH CONSOLE TABLE
This Louis XV-style boullework and ebonized serpentine console table is decorated with gilt-metal mounts, which are similar to the earlier Regence style in appearance. All the surfaces of the table are inlaid with scrolling brasswork
on a red tortoiseshell ground. The table top has a shaped apron and is supported on cabriole legs headed by putti and acanthus leaves. The legs are joined by a shaped undertier, below which are bun feet. The table probably had an elaborate mirror in similar style above it originally. c.1860.
CONSOLE TABLES
This pair of Louis XVI console tables is possibly Italian. Each one is gilded and has a shaped, mottled brown-black a-id white marble top with canted corners and coved sides set above a similarly shaped base. The bowed front of each table is decorated with a frieze hung with leafy
swags on either side of a Classical figural medallion. Each table is supported on Neoclassical-style fluted, tapering legs carved with leaves and drapery. The tables were probably designed to stand in piers – the spaces between two windows – possibly with matching gilded mirrors hung immediately above them.
CHINESE LOW TABLE
This rectangular low table is made of huanghuali wood (rosewood). It has a cleated top, which is positioned above an ornate frieze carved with stylized scroll motifs. The table top is supported on straight legs with angular, scroll-carved terminals. 1880.
CHINESE SIDE TABLE
This beech wood side table originates from the Shuzhou province. It has a rectangular top positioned above three drawers and an apron carved with simple roundels. The table top is raised on square-section legs, with carved bracket supports and terminates in spade feet. The back of the table is left undecorated as the piece is designed to stand against a wall. c.1850.
ENGLISH JARDINIERE
This Victorian amboyna and ebony jardiniere is rectangular in form with rounded ends. The top lifts off to reveal a well for plants. The table top has metal-beaded borders and simulated ivory inlay, with a moulded edge above a frieze set with green jasper type round plaques with Classical figures. The case is supported on fluted, turned, tapering legs with ceramic casters joined by a shaped cross-stretcher centred with a turned finial. 1860.
AMERICAN PIER TABLE
This is one of a pair of Classical, marble-top pier tables. It has a rectangular, ogee-moulded top on a conforming apron above scrolled supports, which are painted with acanthus leaves and ornamented with applied giltwood gadrooning. The
rectangular base has a sloping, gadrooned skirt with a mirror back. It sits on claw feet. Late 19th century.
BRITISH TRIPOD TABLE
The marquetry-decorated circular top of this tripod table has a carved, moulded edge and is raised on a fluted, turned, and carved stem supported on three acanthus decorated legs with scroll toes and original brass casters.
BRITISH TEAPOY
The moulded-edge, hinged lid of this early Victorian rosewood teapot’ has canted corners over a deep, ogee-moulded frieze, and is raised on a baluster upright, with a spiral-turned knop, on double C-scroll supports with brass casters.
ENGLISH WORKTABLE
This Sheraton-revival, painted satinwood worktable has an oval, hinged top decorated with putti, flowers, ribbons, and bows above a drawer on turned, tapering legs, which are joined by a cross-stretcher. 1900.
GERMAN TRIPOD TABLE
This carved walnut and inlaid tripod table is from the Black Forest. The shaped oval top is inlaid with oval panels of stags and is raised on a turned column support, ending in three foliate carved cabriole legs. c.1860.
ITALIAN TORCHERE
This elegant, carved, walnut torch&e stand is one of a pair crafted in Renaissance-revival style. It has a shaped square top resting on a columnar carved support in the shape of a winged caryatid. The torch6re is raised on a carved, scrolling tripod base. 1880. S1 3
This is one of a pair of Venetian torcheres, which were painted some years after they were originally made. The scrolling support of this one incorporates a male Blackamoor torso and is raised on a white overpainted and gilt tripod base.
MONGOLIAN TABLE
This low, Asian-style table is made from wood decorated with polychrome. It has a brightly decorated rectangular top above a moulded and carved apron and two carved end flaps. The table top is supported on four
circular-section legs, which are joined by a straight central stretcher. The table is decorated with a broad geometric border and 18th-century designs. Originally, this piece would probably have been used as a dining or occasional table. Mid 19th century.

MID 19TH CENTURY BUFFETS AND SIDEBOARDS

THE VICTORIAN PENCHANT for formal
social gatherings made the buffet and the sideboard very important items of furniture in more affluent households. Both were used in the dining room to display food and house crockery. They differed in that the buffet was a rather grand superstructure with two or more tiers, similar to the kitchen dresser,
whereas the sideboard was a less imposing, single-tiered cabinet.
DIFFERING STYLES
A wide variety of shapes were popular during this time, incorporating elements from various periods and styles. Arched tops and backs became more common as forms in general grew more rounded, although the traditional rectangular shape certainly persisted. The range of leg shapes used included cup and cover, square, tapering, and cabriole – all very different in style.
Woods used for buffets and sideboards tended to vary just
as they had in the late 18th century. Although these pieces of furniture were often made of mahogany or oak, many carried veneers of burr timbers.
From the mid 19th century. people wanted everything in a room to match in style and material. As a result, in many houses, all the furniture in the dining room, including the buffet or sideboard, would be made of a single wood, such as oak or walnut.
DESIGNED FOR STORAGE
As well as displaying and serving food, the buffet was used to store cutlery, dinnerware. and even decorative objets. Victorian households were Cluttered environments. and the sideboard was a reflection of this. They were peppered with various Compartments, cupboards, and drawers, each with their own specific purpose and many fitted with locks. Buffets in the grandest houses could be exceptionally large, with an average height of more than 183cm (6ft).
BRITISH SIDEBOARD
This early Victorian, possibly Anglo-Indian, oak sideboard has an elaborately shaped backboard surmounted by a number of finials and with an urn at its centre. Below the urn is an applied, carved coat-of-arms. The stepped, rectangular
top of the sideboard has a carved edge, above a gadrooned guilloche frieze and an elaborately carved strapwork apron. The sideboard is raised on carved cup-and-cover legs with gadroon
supports above plinth bases carved with paterae and pedestal feet.
FRENCH LOUIS XV-STYLE BUFFET
This Louis XV-style, cherry and burr walnut buffet has a moulded, gently arched top above a frieze carved with a flowering basket. The upper section of the buffet has a number of open shelves for displaying cups, plates, and decorative objects. These open shelves are
flanked by a pair of decorative serpentine panelled doors. The lower section of the buffet has two small frieze drawers and two further large panelled doors carved with swirling foliate decoration. The buffet has an ornamental shaped apron and is raised on short, slightly cabriole legs. Late 19th century.
BREAKFRONT SIDEBOARD
British mahogany breakfront sideboard is v decorated with satinwood banding and wood and ebony stringing. Two square,
doors flank the two graduated central
The case stands on six square,
tapering legs, terminating in spade feet. This elegant piece is Neoclassical in style and was probably based on a Sheraton example of around 1780. The deep cupboards would have been used for storing wine, and the frieze drawers for storing silver or cutlery. Late 19th century.
BRITISH MAHOGANY SIDEBOARD
This mahogany sideboard has a scrolling, arched backboard that is centred by a cabochon with mask surmount. The reverse breakfront top contains ogee frieze drawers and the four arched panelled doors enclose both sliding trays and shelves. The whole sideboard is raised on a plinth base.
FRENCH OAK BUFFET
The upper section of this oak buffet stands on turned supports and has a moulded cornice above two glazed doors, which open on to a shelved interior. The doors are flanked by fluted pilasters. The rectangular top of the lower section has two frieze drawers above two cupboard doors with applied carved decoration showing a Classical urn filled with flowers. It stands on squashed bun feet. Late 19th century.
BRITISH PEDESTAL SIDEBOARD
This fine George III-style mahogany, satinwood, and marquetry sideboard was made by Wright and Mansfield. The pedestals of the desk contain cellaret drawers for storing wine. The decorative motifs are strongly Neoclassical in manner, inspired by Robert Adam’s (1728-92) delicate interpretation of the style. The
elongated urns centred on each of the pedestals also serve to indicate their contents. Lightly drawn swags and striking anthemion motifs are used to define the individual drawers and cupboards, and to accentuate the essential symmetry of the piece with its carefully balanced use of curved and flat surfaces, sinuous lines, and geometric shape. c.1880.
ANGLO-INDIAN SERVING TABLE
The backboard of this hardwood serving table is elaborately carved with anthemion, acanthus, and birds. The rectangular top has bold, leaf-carved edging and rests on carved brackets with foliate fretwork to the back and sides. The table has a curved support with carved paw feet. Mid 1911) century.
ANGLO-INDIAN CABINET
The shelved upper section of this rosewood bookcase cabinet has leaf-moulded cresting above twin doors with elaborate pierced and carved panels, flanked by scrolling brackets. The lower section has two long, carved frieze drawers above two similarly carved doors. The piece stands on carved bracket feet.

FURNITURE: MID 19TH CENTURY CHINA

WOODWORKING AND cabinet-making
were advanced industries in the China of the late Qing dynasty (1644-1912). Although most authorities agree that the best Chinese furniture was made before the 19th century, traditional methods and forms persisted well into this period of greater communication and trade with the West.
A PERIOD OF DISTRESS
By the mid 19th century, China was home to British, American, Russian, Japanese, German,
Italian, and French colonies. Foreign influence in China was further extended when, in the aftermath of the first Opium War (1839-42), China was compelled to open five of its ports, including Canton and Shanghai, to foreign trade. This number was increased in 1860 following another Chinese military defeat. Far from being a welcome addition to the cultural diversity of China, these foreign incursions were resented
by the majority of the populace.
More pressing matters dominated political and social landscape during this period. China was beset with internal rebellion, fat-nine, and drought – a series of calamities that conspired to wipe out 60 million people in the course of the next 12 years.
Western powers were quick to help the Qing dynasty during these periods of crisis, yet their primary aim was always to open up Chinese markets to the West to improve Western economies. Consequently, Chinese Furniture of the mid 19th century; although predominantly based on Ming and early Qing ideals, bore the
stamp of Western influence to a greater extent than ever before.
A MIX OF OLD AND NEW
The last years of the Qing dynasty, though troubled, did produce some fine furniture. A deep reverence for the past kept the traditions and monumental forms of the early Qing period in production. Concurrent with this, there was a general softening of the strict rectilinearity that had previously characterized Chinese furniture. Rounded forms, such as spoon and horseshoe backs, began to proliferate, as did peculiarly European
shapes, such as the breakfront. Continuity came in the shape of plant stands, low tables, screens, and a variety of other forms that had been popular in China for many years.
Cabinet-makers continued to use lacquer to decorate a great deal of the furniture, although the quality Ming lacquer furniture was never surpassed. Three predominant styles of lacquer decoration date from this period. The most common were daqi, a thick lacquer coating applied to a paste undercoat, and ludqi, a thin wash painted directly on to the wood. Less
common and more elaborate was miaojin, which incorporated gold-coloured highlights on a ground of black and coloured lacquer.
Another traditional decorative element, the ceramic plaque, enjoyed something of a revival towards the close of the Qing period due to the work of porcelain masters, such as Liu Xiren, who worked in Jiangxi province.
ELABORATE DECORATION
The persistent admiration for Chinese furniture was due in no small part to the quality of the exotic woods
available to craftsmen. Hardwoods, particularly rosewood, were ideally suited to the profuse pierced and carved decoration practised by so many cabinet-makers. Huali, a type of rosewood, was found to fade to an attractive golden colour after prolonged exposure to light, and furniture with this hue became known as huanghuali during the late Qing period. Hard stones, either in the form of decorative inlays or inset marble table tops, appealed to the European taste and became staples of more ornate Chinese furniture of the period.
The export market was a prime source of commissions and revenue for many cabinet-makers, particularly those in the newly opened city ports, such as Shanghai. European markets demanded that this export furniture look as Oriental as possible, with the result that decoration that might be rejected as over-exuberant by the Chinese was carried out on some furniture purely to satisfy Western buyers. Intricately inlaid figural landscapes containing pavilions and other typically Chinese features are hallmarks of this new direction Liken by Chinese craftsmen in the second half of the 19th century.

INLAID LOW TABLE
This is one of a pair of rare horseshoe armchairs made of huanghuali, the Chinese name for rosewood. It has a U-shaped, bamboo form, a carved top rail, a cane seat, and a lattice splat. The top rail and legs have been carved to simulate the apperance of bamboo. S&K
HORSESHOE ARMCHAIR
This black-lacquered wooden low table of rectangular form is inlaid with mother-of-pearl and hard stones, depicting a rural scene. The image includes a pavilion and figures within a walled garden on a black ground. The table is supported on similarly decorated cabriole legs, terminating in paw feet.
ANGLO-CHINESE CENTRE TABLE
This Anglo-Chinese centre table is made from amboyna and ebony and has three drawers one long and two short – with dummy drawers at the back. It is raised on carved ebony
trestle supports, terminating in claw feet. The supports are joined by an ebony stretcher. Although it was made in 1840, the design of the table is closer in style to examples from about 1810. c.1840.
A cane seat is fitted into the rosewood seat frame.
The turned legs simulate the appearance of bamboo.
ANGLO-CHINESE SIDEBOARD
SPOON-BACK NURSING CHAIR
This Anglo-Chinese amboyna and ebony pedestal sideboard has a frieze containing two drawers. Each pedestal contains a cupboard door enclosing shelves, as well as a deep drawer for storing wine. Made in colonial style, the shape of the sideboard is Regency. c.1840.
This Burmese, carved hardwood nursing chair features ornate, pierced, carved decoration throughout. The shaped back has a deep, carved surround with bird and foliage motifs. The padded drop-in seat has a similarly carved seat rail and is supported on cabriole legs moulded as rampant lions. c.1900.
PLANT STANDS
These intricate plant stands arc, made of rosewood and have shaped tops with polished marble insets, The tops are supported on profusely carved frames and shaped legs, which are joined by stretchers and headed by mask motifs. The stands terminate in animal-paw feet. c.1900.
NEST OF TABLES
This set of four hardwood tables graduates in size, fitting one inside the next, making the tables easy to store when not in use. Each table has a tray top and a decorative pierced apron set above shaped legs, which are joined by similarly shaped stretchers.

Antique Mid 19th Century American Furniture.

A RENEWED RUSH of immigration from
northern Europe swelled America’s population in the mid-19th century. After the Civil War (1861-65), the victorious North was imbued with new vigour and wealth as the tide of industrialization swept across the states.
The Gothic style also remained popular during the second half of the 19th century. Examples of solid dark wood furniture crowned by cathedral-style trefoils and quatrefoils could be found in many middle-class homes.
UNITED STATES
APPROPRIATIONS FROM EUROPE The American Empire style reached its zenith around 1840, when the tide of fashion turned in favour of plain surfaces. Heavy furniture in mahogany and rosewood veneers dominated the later American Empire period.
The Empire manner was gradually ousted from its central position in American taste by an influx of European craftsmen, who helped to disseminate the Rococo-revival style. The Classical motifs of Empire furniture gave way to emblems drawn from the natural world, and rounded Rococo forms replaced the earlier architectural structures. The development of laminate veneers greatly aided the practitioners of the Rococo revival, led by German-born New Yorker J.H. Belter (see pp.296-97). Some American designers, such as Alexander Roux, eschewed the use of laminated bentwood in favour of a more authentic Rococo look. Roux was a French immigrant whose elaborately carved pieces featured decorative motifs drawn from hunting, such as grouse, dogs, and deer.
HOMEGROWN INGENUITY George Hunzinger, a German who arrived in the United States in 1855, devised ingenious space-saving, mechanical furniture. He amassed more then 20 patents during his career, for furniture that folded, extended, collapsed, or converted. William Wooton, a native of Indiana, secured a patent for an equally clever, but altogether more immutable form in the 1870s. The Wooton Patent Secretary was a large desk that concealed innumerable small drawers and compartments for the storage of documents and chattels.
A NEW AMERICAN RENAISSANCE Renaissance forms were rediscovered after the Civil War and incorporated into a new, distinctly American look. The 1876 Philadelphia Centennial
Exhibition was a statement of the nation’s confidence and marked the culmination of the Renaissance revival. Luminaries of the Gilded Age, such as j.P. Morgan, commissioned grand houses designed in the Renaissance style. The Centennial also spawned an interest in a revival of American colonial furniture forms.
The American people had long been fascinated with Egyptology, and a number of exhibitions of ancient Egyptian artefacts drew vast crowds during the latter half of the 19th century. It is therefore no surprise that Egyptian motifs found their way on to furniture of the period. Actual Egyptian forms were rarely used. Instead, lotus, sphinx, and other emblems were applied to Renaissance-revival furniture.
CHIPPENDALE-STYLE CHAIR
This mahogany side chair with an upholstered drop-in seat has an openwork splat, shaped top rail, and scrolled ears. Elegant cabriole legs terminate in claw-and-ball feet. It is one of a set of six chairs. c.1900.
GOTHIC-REVIVAL ARMCHAIR
This walnut armchair has a carved and pierced crest. The back is flanked by spiral spindles and stiles. The ring-turned arms terminate in ball-turned hand-holds, and the seat is raised on spiral-turned legs.
CHEST-ON-CHEST
This Colonial-revival chest-on-chest is made from mahogany. The upper section of the chest consists of an outset gadroon-carved top, two moulded frieze drawers, and three graduated drawers. The lower section has two
long drawers positioned above a gadroon-carved base and the piece is supported on claw-andball feet. The overall form is based on a mid 18th-century original. The legs are inspired by a mid 18th-century form, while the moulded top drawer is 19th century in style. Mid 19th century.
This tea table or card table, is an exact copy of a late 18th-century piece, with a top that opens out to provide a larger surface. Made from mahogany, the table is inlaid with boxwood. The frieze is inlaid with an urn motif, and the table is raised on square, tapering legs. Mid 19th century.
This Renaissance-revival, laminated walnut, triple-arch sofa is influenced by Louis XV style. It has a pierced foliate, scroll-and-grape clustered frame, centred by a carved mask crest. The tufted back of the sofa is in three sections above a padded serpentine seat with a floral-carved apron on cabriole legs.
The pediment has a central domed crest.
WOOTON DESK
Panel doors are lined with shelves and divisions.
This imposing variation of the fall-front desk has an elaborate, domed pediment. Two lockable, hinged front panels open to reveal an extensive, complex arrangement of interior drawers and divisions. The writing surface, also hinged, lifts from horizontal to vertical so the panel doors can close. The doors are also fitted with shelves and divisions. Late 19th century.
The wooden knobs are in a darker wood than the drawers.

FRANCE: French 1848-1900 Antique Furniture
IN CONTRAST TO THE reconciliatory stance adopted by Louis-Philippe, Napoleon III sought to align himself firmly with the Classical past as part of his consolidation of power. Designs from the reign of Louis XIV, the Sun King, were appropriated along with forms and decorative motifs from the reigns of Louis XV and Louis XVI. Napoleon III had promised France glory, and he hoped to provide this at least in part by reminding it of a golden age. There was also a pan-European revival of interest in the Classical and Renaissance periods.
LUXURY AND COMFORT
Dark woods, especially mahogany and ebony, were used in abundance by the cabinet-makers of the time. Newer materials such as cast iron, turned out by foundries all over newly industrialized France, and papier-mache, provided a contemporary twist. Precious materials such as gilt bronze heralded the wealth and status of the owner and loaned visual interest to a piece, as did inlays of ivory and mother-of-pearl, which provided a dramatic contrast to the dark wood. A revival of the intricate veneering and marquetry work as practised by Andre-Charles Boulle in the time of Louis XIV further added to the sumptuous decadence that is a hallmark of Second Empire furniture.
Comfort was a high priority. Upholstery became far more prevalent due to the widespread availability of the
The Salon de Musique This music room at the Chateau de Compiegne has an eclectic mix of 17th-, 18th-, and 19th-century furniture that is typical of interiors of the Second Empire.
coiled spring. Tapissier chairs, named for the richly embroidered upholsteries with which they were covered, became staples of fashionable salons. The
1850s saw the introduction of new forms to the canon of French cabinetmaking, including the round, upholstered ottoman known as the pouffe, which is still in use today. The dos-d-dos and the boudeuse, or courting chair, also date from this period. In such seating, the occupants sat beside each other but facing away from each other, divided by an “S”-shaped seat rail.
ANTIQUARIAN NATIONAL STYLE Architectural elements, such as columns and pediments drawn from Greco-Roman buildings, provided the Classical and Renaissance look that pandered to the Emperor’s desire to root his regime firmly in the glorious past. Egyptian motifs provided a similar link but were the consequence of French archaeologist Marcel Dieulafoy’s keen interest in architecture. Many 19th-century designers were heavily influenced by his studies of excavated Egyptian and Middle-Eastern buildings. All these ingredients combined to produce a national style that became more extreme towards the end of the century, as shown by the kingwood vitrine opposite.
“BOULLE” CABINET
This Louis XIV-inspired cabinet is decorated with premiere-partie boullework on a red tortoiseshell ground. The black, shaped, rectangular marble top has moulded serpentine edges. The conforming front has a frieze above a door, centred with an oval panel and flanked by outset rounded stiles with figural chutes. The shaped skirt is centred with an espagnolette and raised on disc feet.
c.1850.
LOUIS XVI TABLE
Almost an exact copy of an 18th-century piece, this rosewood, marquetry-inlaid, gilt-metal mounted side table has a fitted frieze drawer. The table top is raised on gilt-metal caryatid legs. The legs are joined by a pierced platform stretcher with a bowl at its centre, and stand on spiral, tapered feet. 1880.
TRANSITIONAL-STYLE COMMODE
This kingwood, satinwood, and gilt-metal mounted serpentine commode has a marble top with outset corners. The three long drawers have inlaid panels, each centred by a grotesque mask motif. The capped, splayed legs are joined by a shaped apron and have hoot feet. c.1900.
Gabriel Viardot was an expert woodcarver and was already operating his own business when he took over the reins of the family furniture business in 1861. Records show that in 1885 Viardot employed around 100 men at his premises on Rue Amelot in Paris. I lis renown was such that he was invited to adjudicate at the Expositions Universelles held in Paris. He also submitted his own pieces for exhibition and was the recipient of a series of awards, including a gold medal in 1889. The Viardot name is most closely associated with furniture in the Japanese style, but he also produced Vietnamese stylework – Vietnam was one of Napoleon III’s most prized colonies.
The furniture created by Viardot was solidly constructed, typically from beech or walnut, with decorative motifs drawn from the East. Grotesque masks, very much a feature of mainstream French furniture, were adapted so that they took on an Eastern countenance. Carvings depicting dragons and demons were inspired by Oriental mythology and tradition, and the frequent use of lacquer coating was a direct influence of Chinese style. Viardot’s juxtaposition of European and Eastern forms resulted in the creation of very distinctive pieces that bridged the gap between exotic imports and more prosaic homespun furniture.
The drawers are inlaid with mother-of-pearl.
KINGWOOD VITRINE
The tapering ogee top of this serpentine vitrine has a central cartouche above a pair of glazed doors and sides, enclosing a mirrored interior. Below is a single central door inspired by Louis XV style with a vernis martin bombe panel of lovers.
The carved dragon motif is inspired by Oriental mythology.
The fret decoration is in the Chinese style.
The surface is inset with velvet.
Dressing table This piece is made of stained beechwood with mother-of-pearl inlays. It has an asymmetrical appearance that is Asian-inspired, but it is of European construction. c.1890.
CONVERSATION SEAT
This Louis XV-style giltwood and upholstered conversation seat is covered in a red and gold striped fabric. The piece has a serpentine back with a shell surmount and stands on moulded, cabriole legs. c.1890.

The eighteenth century
The somewhat oppressive style of Louis XIV died with him. After his death life at court was characterised by elegance and a lighter touch. The effect was also felt in art with the salons of Paris being at the heart of the cultural life. The luxury of city life worked through to the country homes of the aristocracy which set an example to all Europe. The houses were extended with libraries, boudoirs, dining rooms, ballrooms, dressing rooms, bedrooms, workrooms and quarters for the servants being added. To give each room
its distinctive function, the range of furniture also became extended.
France — Regency and Rococo
During the Duke of Orleans’ regency rooms were still furnished with robust furniture but in the second half of the eighteenth century this altered radically. The fashion switched to lighter, more elegant designs that were also somewhat decadent in their decorative style. This made itself apparent in furniture with flowing lines, S-forms, and scrolls. Rococo was a fairly radical style period that endured for a shorter period in France than in other European countries. Customers made ever increasing demands on the furniture makers and furniture was required that was larger in size.
This caused a demarcation among the furniture makers with them specialising for instance in a particular type of expensive wood which they then made into furniture of the very highest standards. This was equally true of the bronze founders who engraved their adornments as if it were jewellery.
Increased demand brought about a certain amount of standardisation. The ebenistes started to buy in timber, drawers, mouldings, marquetry, and handles and catches. All the ebenistes were required to sign their work from 1743, except for those working in the service of the King and yet it can be extremely difficult to identify a maker. This is because all the ebenistes also sold furniture made by others and it was their custom to sign all the furniture that they sold.
Daily life for the upper echelons of French society was extremely lively. Lots of callers were received and many visits also made, and in the evening they either attended or gave dinner parties. Lots of different types of seating were therefore needed which had to be comfortable.
Only curved forms would do for these. Among the new types of seating there was a short upholstered sofa of which one type was known as a berg&e.
This had a closed back.
There was also the bergere a joue, which somewhat resembled a modern wing chair, and a number of versions of the chaise longue for lounging on. A chaise longue that was open at the front was known as a turquoise, while the variety with upholstered armrests was known as a vieilleuse.
A canape has open armrests at the side, while a sofa has S-form closed side arms. The dressing table was accompanied by a fauteuil de toilette and a desk or bureau by a fauteuil de bureau. Rococo furniture was decorated with brocade, damask, velvet, or satin. Damask came from Genoa, Lyon, or Peking. Gobelin tapestry and cloth with petit-point embroidery from the state factory at Aubusson were used to upholster furniture. Woven reed was also used to make seats and chairs backs.
The gilt carved cartouches and shells of Italy disappeared from decorations to be replaced with unrestricted compositions with ribbons and flower stems.
The rocaille from which some say Rococo got its name came into vogue around 1750. There was a movement, up to the middle of the century, away from structure-led form towards ornamental design and was expressed also in the bronze embellishments. These were applied to table legs for example where stringers and legs met. A piece of furniture with a purely decorative function is the Rococo console which eventually replaced the console table.
Cabinets disappeared from interiors during the Rococo period except for in country homes and those of the citizenry, although there were half-height cabinets with two doors serving as wash-stand chiffoniers known as meuble d’entre deux and small bookcases with two doors. There would be a games table in
the salon, sometimes with a chessboard inlaid into its top and the round gueridon or pedestal table was made for all manner of small items. There would be a large table in the dining room together with a whole series of smaller tables and for when they wished to talk without being overheard by the servants, there would be a ‘dumb waiter’ on which the staff would leave the food before retiring. In a ladies’ room there would certainly be a dressing table or table de toilette which later became known as a poudreuse. The lady would also have a writing table or bonheur du jour in one of her rooms. Men’s desks were much heavier in appearance, usually made from palisander but other words were also used for bureaux. Flat-fronted bureaux were popular until 1750 after which the cylindrical bureaux became more fashionable.
There would be several night tables in the sleeping quarters: the tables de nuit and tables de lit. During the Rococo period beds became more elegant and graceful but often with whimsical valances from which their names were derived of lit a la Chinoise, l’Anglaise, l’Allemagne, or l`Italienne. No chests or coffers were to be seen anywhere in the salons, these had been replaced by a commode with two attendant corner cabinets.
The form of the commode had also changed. The curves of the front had now disappeared and the bronze handles and catches were geometrically arranged. The bottom of the commode was bowed. As the years passed, Rococo became increasingly more complex. Bronze ornamentation and intarsia inlays now covered the entire fronts of pieces, without regard for the drawers.
Subsequently the decoration moved more to the sides of pieces. Bronze ornamentation became more simple with cleaner lines after 1740. Whatever their specialisation, virtually every furniture maker produced commodes during the Rococo era. Some of the famous names are J.P.
Latz, J.F. Leleu, Nicolas Pineau, F. Oeben, J.H. Riesener, Bernard van Risen-burgh, and Abraham Roentgen.
There was strongly exotic side to Rococo so that lacquered furniture was extremely popular at this time. Rococo flourished most during the first half of the eighteenth century and at this time French lacquer-work production overtook even that of the Dutch who had been the biggest producers of reproduction chi-
noiserie and the largest importers of Chinese and Japanese lacquer items. The Dutch Martin brothers were the major producers of reproduction chinoiserie.
Germany and Austria
The political situation had as great an influence on the furniture industry during the Rococo period as during the preceding era.
The artistic and cultural leanings of the individual courts depended both on their geographical position and political realities. Hence the main cities of Berlin, Dresden, Munich, and Vienna took their lead from the French court.
The German/Dutch Rhineland and the area between Liege and Achen differed markedly from the German/French Rhineland. There was a clear preference for Dutch and English style furniture in northern Germany.
The biggest variation in types of furniture and their styles resulted from the personalities of the persons commissioning them. When German makers did follow French inspiration they did not do so closely. This resulted in the Bandestil or `banded style’ which got its name from the banding motif popularly used until the mid eighteenth century on much furniture, but specially on bureaux.
A German Rococo secretaire had a style of its own, with a curved form which gave a far from restful appearance. The legs and corners were also slightly bowed and slanted. These secretaires were mainly made of ebony and fitted with drawers. Colourful marquetry was very popular for decoration. Frankfurt cabinets had a similar appearance and were therefore also extremely popular.
Northern makers who followed French ideas for commodes fitted them with three, four, or five drawers but they used no veneer. Further south, in contrast, a commode was deemed to be a tall cabinet finished in walnut veneer. This was finished unpretentiously with iron handles and fittings and had straight sides. The only decorated examples were those for aristocratic houses of the princes. The commode was a piece of furniture for the common folk. These were finished with refined carving in unvarnished oak and walnut in both Achen and Liege. These cities also made corner cabinets for tableware, wardrobes,
small and tall dressers, and display cabinets.
The bureau was adopted from France too but German versions were both lower and less deep.The glazed fronted Dutch cabinet was further developed in north-west Germany and there was also clearly a Dutch influence in their lacquered furniture. Some chairs were both lacquered and decorated with inlays. The most common furniture though is made of stained walnut and oak.
The most precious pieces were gilded. Furniture made of beech or lime was usually painted yellow or white. Luxury items of furniture were also made in some places in Austria and Switzerland, often with the help of important artists. There are also delightful country pieces from this era. Rocaille motifs continued to be used in painted decoration until the middle of the nineteenth century.
France - Louis XVI
A desire for the classical world returned in the middle of the eighteenth century resulted in a number of artists making journeys to Greece and Italy. Classicism became more widely known through their books, lectures, and works of art. Excavation of Herculaneum and Pompeii produced a great array of artistic treasures which inspired many contemporary artists.
This also coincided with a movement in art towards simplicity and naturalism. This trend manifested itself first in furniture, before the other arts. Furniture makers once more used motifs such as plaited garlands, egg and tongue mouldings, Hermes, nymphs, lion’s heads, vines, rosettes, bull’s heads, and Doric friezes. Rococo had shown a preference for gilding, white paint, and light colours. The mouldings and bronze ornamentation now faded into the background. Muted coloured veneers
Louis XVI dining chair.
From the 1880’s, at the end of Rococo, inlays of Sevres porcelain had been used together with glass painting and lacquer from Asia. Floral motifs were popular for upholstery fabrics. Chairs were not just required to look fine but also to be comfortable. The backs of chairs became rounded or oval in the 1870’s. These were crested with carved decoration. Legs resembling fluted columns were popular. The types of seating did not change though.
A newcomer was the three-seat sofa known as a confidente. The sides of both sofas and bergeres were now generally straight. Console tables stood on a fluted column. Beds were no longer placed in an alcove and the side not against the wall was decorated.The common folk’s furniture remained conservative. Items made for the citizenry
included two-door cabinets, ladies’ and medium height two-door dressers. Commodes were rectangular, smooth, and mainly set on conical legs.
A newcomer to less exalted homes was the cylinder bureau.One of the best furniture makers of the time was undoubtedly J.H. Riesener.
His pieces are decorated with marquetry flowers, urns, and fruits. Furniture was decorated with many allegorical figures and bronze embellishments. Riesener partially changed his approach towards the end of the eighteenth century with the introduction of straight legs and more geometrical marquetry. He undoubtedly gave his closest attention to his rectangular secretaires and commodes with rounded corners Most of the ebenistes working for the French court were actually German.
Great names among suppliers to the court include J.F. Schwerdtfeger and Adam Weisweller. The greatest of all were Abraham and David Roentgen, who also sold to the courts of other European rulers.
A provincial Louis XVI cabinet with basin for rinsing glasses.
David Roentgen’s speciality was furniture with secret mechanisms. His marquetry decorations were based on designs by the fresco artist Januarius Zick.
David Roentgen lived in Paris between 1775 and 1780 and it was at this time that his finest pieces were made. Most of them were light in colour with bronze decoration.
The first to incorporate English ideas in furniture in France was G. Jacob, a woodcarver, who made armchairs of mahogany. The backs of his chairs were in the form of an oval medallion and they had console legs.
The fan-like fretwork form of his chair backs was very fine. The German maker J.G. Bennemann specialised after 1779 in large horizontally arranged dressers that were decorated with bronze adornments specially made by P.P. Thomire.